Given that you’re on this page, you likely spent a good
portion of your childhood in the 80s and 90s. There are few things more
nostalgic than a standing arcade cabinet, perhaps running a classic like
Galaga, Pac Man, Street Fighter II, or something else from the canon of truly
awesome arcade games. With arcades now being few and far between, you may be
reminiscing about “the good old days”. Now you could plan out your own cabinet,
however not all of us have the time or the tools necessary to create the panels
to assemble an arcade cabinet. Fortunately, there are few companies out there
that will help give you a relatively authentic arcade experience back without
breaking the bank.
The company that I’d like to single out is RecRoom Masters.
This is a small, bustling company that is constantly bringing new products to
the market. There is a large range of pricing and cabinet sizes so you can
purchase based on your budget and the amount of space you have available. Wayne
Scheiner at RecRoom Masters and I exchanged numerous emails so I could get a
good feel for the decisions I needed to make so that the product came out the
way I wanted. Even though I already settled on the larger Xtension Arcade with
the 27” screen, I had to decide if I wanted to light the top, if I wanted a
coin door or a cabinet drawer, if I wanted graphics on the sides and over the
stick, and if those graphics would be vinyl or a more permanent adhesive.
When I was younger, one of the most exciting cabinets to
find at an arcade, bowling alley, or restaurant was an SNK Neo Geo Multicade
MVS System. The Multicade would usually be stocked with 2-4 different games
like Samurai Shodown, Sengoku or King of Fighters. The Neo Geo home system,
which was famously expensive when released ($650 for the system and $200+ for
each game), was out of the price range of anyone I knew, so the only
opportunity to play many of these classic releases was on an MVS System. Now
that a couple of decades have passed, the only time I see an MVS is occasionally
at a convention.
|A few iterations of the MVS Multicade Cabinets|
For the sake of nostalgia, I decided that I wanted my
Xtension arcade cabinet to have the same look and feel as an SNK MVS, in all
its red and white glory. I opted to have RecRoom Masters apply the permanent
stickers on the side panels, and prepare me some stickers and vinyl for the
front of the cabinet and the Tankstick, which is X-Arcade’s larger joystick
with the trackball in the center for playing bowling, golf and marble games.
(As an aside, X-Arcade and RecRoom masters are two different companies, RecRoom
Masters fashions their cabinets so the X-Arcade sticks can be dropped in
quickly and easily.)
|The X-Arcade Tankstick|
The X-Arcade Tankstick is built like a … well you know. It
has a nice heft to it, the finish feels durable, and accessing the interior
doesn’t require much effort. Spending some time reading the reviews online,
most people like X-Arcade offerings, but don’t care as much for the included
joysticks, which are actual X-Arcade branded units. Many suggested switching
over to Happ branded units as they tended to be more responsive. Since
purchasing a pair of these would only run about $20, I decided to take the plunge.
The HAPP units feature Cherry switches, and are actually easier to install and
uninstall because of their smaller girth around the bottom.
|The Happ versus the XArcade Joystick|
Switching out the joysticks in the Tankstick requires you to
pull the little rubber nubs out from the center of each rubber foot, then
unscrew the screw under each one.
You can then access the interior, which may
look like a rat’s nest of wires to the uninitiated, but it isn’t too hard to
visually follow each wire. I took a photo of the interior for a reference of
the color coding, then unclipped the leads, unscrewed the bolts, removed the
spring clip at the base of the x-arcade joysticks, and removed them from the
|Stock X-Arcade Stick|
|Removal of the existing joystick|
The Happ sticks have the same hole pattern and are easy to drop into place.
|Installation of the Happ Joystick (note I like zip ties!)|
Another consideration while the joystick was open was wiring
up the coin door on the unit so dropping a quarter in would actually register
in-game. The Happ coin door from X-Arcade has a pair of leads that you wire
up to one of the buttons within the joystick for that purpose. I decided I
would be fancy and sleeve this lead with Techflex sleeving rather than leaving the white
and green wire exposed. Now that the joystick was all set, I could concentrate
on the Xtension cabinet.
|Coin door leads needed a good Techflexing|
Dropping in the Happ coin door didn't require much effort. Six metal pieces are screwed in place and that's all she wrote. The unit has an LED that lights up, this needs to be plugged into an electrical socket.
|Back of the coin door|
|Open the coin door for access to the interior cabinet|
|Joystick Sitting on Base|
One of the trickier parts of the build was getting
everything situated in the small marquee area. I mounted a GE metal body light
that was a bit less deep than the GE light that comes with the unit so I could
allow room for a pair of speakers.
|GE Metal Body 24" Under Counter Light|
|Mounted to backboard|
The speakers are a pair of MarkAudio full
range CHR-70 4” drivers, full range meaning that they’ll reproduce the whole
frequency of sound. These are popular units in the DIY world, you’ll see them
being used by Planet10 hifi and other full range enthusiasts. If you like the
Fostex sound you’ll probably like these.
|MarkAudio CHR-70 4" full range drivers|
|Adding Dynamat damping around drivers|
|Wiring up the Kimber TCSS to the speakers and 4 pin XLR|
I mounted the MarkAudios behind the routed holes in the board behind the marquee, dampened the board with Dynamat Xtreme, and then mounted a 4 pin XLR above the light and ran Kimber TCSS wiring from the speakers to it, that way it’s one quick, easy locking connection to attach a 4 pole speaker cable to the back rather than four binding posts... it's just a cleaner look with less fuss. Below is the rear of the marquis area with the four pin XLR connector and a handsome litz braid of Kimber TCSS wire. The wire is 19 gauge thick, which is is ample for the application.
|Custom 4 pole speaker cable connected via XLR|
Once all these
items were secured in place, getting the plexi and graphic to stay put as I
closed the unit was a doozy. I ended up putting very small pieces of electrical
tape on the top and bottom of the plexi glass to hold the pieces sandwiched together,
then slowly slipped them into place. The tape is hidden by the routed wood
area, so no worries there.
|Testing the backlight on the marquis|
The monitor was the last think I needed to situate before
pulling everything together. RecRoom Masters recommends a 27” monitor that has
screw holes facing the back and connectors that face downward for the sake of
clearance. You could obviously use something else if you wanted, but you’d have
to modify the board that it mounts to. I chose a Viewsonic VA2703 monitor, it
was the only one I could find that fit all the criteria. You can find these
going for as low as $180 refurbished to $230 new, so not a tough investment.
Once the top part of the cabinet has all the goodies in
place, it can be a bit heavy. I’d recommend a second hand to help pick it up
and put it in place, then do some final tightening of the bolts (but not too
tight, they can cause the graphics to buckle).
One everything is put together, you have ample cabinet space
in the back to put a PC and whatever else you need. I added a little wifi
antenna unit and my purpose-built Gainclone amplifier and USB DAC, who’s
switches are easily accessible from the front of the unit when opening the coin
Below is my hand-built Gainclone amplifier from ChipAmp based on the LM3886. I built this nice and small specifically to go into the arcade cabinet. It puts out 68 watts which is more than ample for the 4" Mark Audio drivers. Within it is a USB DAC (the GrubDAC) which converts a USB digital signal to analog before the amplification stage. I installed a little switch and pair of RCAs so analog inputs could be used as well. To see more about this build, go here
|Hand-made Gainclone / Chipamp 68 watt amplifier|
The PC inside uses a small form factor case by Rosewell - The Legacy U3-B, with a low power Intel i3 so it doesn't generate too much heat. You can see more details on the case and PC here
|Rosewill Legacy U3-B|
Below are photos of the completed cabinet in all its glory:
|Keyboard drawer open|
Below is the slide-out keyboard tray that holds a full-size keyboard and mouse. I chose a Corsair Raptor K30 which has the nice light-up red keys, and the mouse is a laptop wireless unit from Microsoft. You can actually control the cursor using the track-ball, but it's a little slow.
|Close-up of the keyboard tray|
|With keyboard tray closed|
For the cost, the Xtension is amazing. You’re not going to
find a better product out there for the price. That being said, there are a
couple of areas that you could make some tweaks or mild improvements if you
wanted to put a little more money into the project. I picked up a longer 24”
light for behind the marquee that was less deep to give more room for the
speakers. I also mounted a small black
kitchen knob on the keyboard area, as it can be a little stubborn to open
without one. Another thought is that you could mount a higher end drawer slide
that extends a bit further for better access to the keyboard.
Hope you enjoyed the post. As always, if you are in need of some custom audio cabling to take your rig to the next level, contact Zynsonix Audio
. Custom work is a Zynsonix specialty, even if you need a 4 pin XLR speaker cable for the back of an arcade cabinet ;)
The Fine Print: The above steps detailing the building of an arcade cabinet are for entertainment purposes only, and should not be used as directions / instructions. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt the process posted and cause physical harm to yourself, your surroundings or your property. Zynsonix Audio does not have any affiliation with X-Arcade, Recroom Masters, or any of the other companies mentioned above.
Do you still have the artwork files for the cabinet? I would like to have mine be very similar. Looks awesome! ThanksReplyDelete
Hi Jester, I believe I do, let me know your email and I'll get them to you.ReplyDelete
Hello. I want to request if you still have the artwork. Please forward it to firstname.lastname@example.org. ThanksDelete
Sorry Johnny, it was on an old computer I no longer have. Maybe check with RecRoom Masters to see if they have something similar.Delete
Very nice. Im inspired to build one myself. How's the bass with the full range drivers? coz without over the top bass, its not an authentic arcade experience :)ReplyDelete
The MarkAudios are very balanced sounding. You'd definitely want to add a powered subwoofer if big bass if your objective. There's a decent amount of room in the base for various solutions. Check out PartsExpress.com for ideasReplyDelete
I also am trying to build this x tension arcade.ReplyDelete
Since you have the x arcade tankstick with TrackBall, could you provide me the dimension of the top flat panel diagonal length, so i know how long i need to cut out the mdf to let the joystick fall in its place
Good Morning. I wonder if you have to send the measures or the manual thatXtension Arcade Cabinet.ReplyDelete
I'm afraid I no longer have the manual. Did you try reaching out to rec-room masters for the dimensions?ReplyDelete