tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26631639797797606842024-03-18T14:33:16.268-04:00DIY Audio Electronics from Zynsonix.comPlenty of DIY electronics and reviews including vacuum tube audio, new and vintage gear, custom audio cables, headphones, experiments, and retro video gaming.
HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.comBlogger142125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-12556111750595995662023-11-21T17:56:00.001-05:002023-11-21T18:00:19.749-05:00Steampunk Modified Bottlehead Crack DIY Headphone Amp<p>If you're here you're probably a fan of steampunk, DIY audio, or hopefully both. I wanted to show off my buddy Greg's absolutely beautiful Steampunk themed Bottlehead Crack. I guess technically you might not be able to call it a Crack anymore given nearly every piece of the kit has been swapped out, but the amplifier section of the circuit the same, a simple tube buffer design. </p><p>The Bottlehead Crack has been a popular staple for aspiring DIYers thanks to the lowish price and accessible build. Bottlehead includes step by step directions with pictures so you don't need to know how to read a schematic (although it's fairly easy for tube amps as they are typically simple circuits, so I recommend learning if you can). The stock Crack has very few parts and lacks output transformers so most can complete it in a single evening. </p><p>That being said, many users like Greg like to customize their Bottlehead gear, so bespoke wooden bases or unique paintjobs aren't uncommon. Others choose to modify the internals to enhance performance.You will see the frequently replaced electrolytic capacitors with big honkin' film caps. Greg also designed a lovely pair of custom brackets to nestle around the Clarity Caps. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT02XTwBIPwSa2VoJzyw6w6xYZv1X-DqN4bkCE6Cekk8BjRVkWliPvyzMU9tnmdQ7rkAz14vZVvOiXIr4e4SX-1Y5Z5CMp-ZWWHK5ShYnKG8ZYwWh-f9cseEkp3nPvqo_3Mz9FEUcCamLqz-otcjHaBqw32eP0Qkku8Uw-s6lO9EKsfn0NgMwkC2bf1erA/s2811/Steampunk%20Bottlehead%20Headphone%20Amp%203.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2811" data-original-width="2004" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT02XTwBIPwSa2VoJzyw6w6xYZv1X-DqN4bkCE6Cekk8BjRVkWliPvyzMU9tnmdQ7rkAz14vZVvOiXIr4e4SX-1Y5Z5CMp-ZWWHK5ShYnKG8ZYwWh-f9cseEkp3nPvqo_3Mz9FEUcCamLqz-otcjHaBqw32eP0Qkku8Uw-s6lO9EKsfn0NgMwkC2bf1erA/w456-h640/Steampunk%20Bottlehead%20Headphone%20Amp%203.jpg" width="456" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Lots of audiophile goodies inside</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>You will see a small power filter near the power IEC socket, then a CRCRC high voltage power filter with Nichicon electrolytics, and near the front switch is a rectifier board. The stock crack has you mount the rectifier circuit on solder tabs around the transformer so this is a nice little improvement. Some people also elect to install ultra-fast diodes as another option. The tube sockets are replaced with the high quality CMC Teflon PTFE sockets which can help dampen tube vibration. These were directly soldered to however you can find PCBs on eBay or AliExpress to make things a little easier. CMC is also now making Bakelite versions of the socket if you are feeling especially vintage. </p><p><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a> <br /></p><p>The stock Alpha potentiometer has been replaced by a higher quality Audio Note version, and Greg let me know he has ample real estate there to mount a larger stepped attenuator. You'll notice this Crack does not have the Speedball upgrade. While the Speedball enhances the performance of the amp as a constant current source for each channel, some people prefer the more "tubey" sound of the stock circuit. I can tell you they are two different flavors and each have their charm. I prefer to mate a Crack with the Speedball upgrade with some warm tubes and a I feel like it's a nice compromise. <br /></p><p>While there are plenty of improvements on the inside of the amp, the outside is the bee's knees. You'll see a polished copper chassis adorned with brass acorn nuts, a custom copper heatsink, the obligatory steampunk gears, and an old fashioned double pole knife switch. There is a reason why knife switches have been relegated to Frankenstein films and not household electronics; they are inherently unsafe and can arc when connected to high voltage. A shame as they look bad ass. This one is just for show. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ6aQAylJZNt6SuO5cyKm57yJqryNNU92I5-qC5VpTDhgc2vlxo9PeBSTn2xE1MuvCp8GJmGewI4gNQrQkoCCL4XSeEdFUDksDsJo3Wq0AdumKlBLZuIa8B2zYLYP6afz3X6tWMW-grfRr-CfJrutqJFP1q3zTQZyI_Dg2c1-358V40PAoFByNEJEm5S5h/s2384/Steampunk%20Bottlehead%20Headphone%20Amp%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1940" data-original-width="2384" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ6aQAylJZNt6SuO5cyKm57yJqryNNU92I5-qC5VpTDhgc2vlxo9PeBSTn2xE1MuvCp8GJmGewI4gNQrQkoCCL4XSeEdFUDksDsJo3Wq0AdumKlBLZuIa8B2zYLYP6afz3X6tWMW-grfRr-CfJrutqJFP1q3zTQZyI_Dg2c1-358V40PAoFByNEJEm5S5h/w640-h520/Steampunk%20Bottlehead%20Headphone%20Amp%202.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>You will also notice there transformer is a little larger above. In fact Greg installed a dedicated heater transformer for the tube heater pins rather than requiring the single transformer from the kit to do all the work. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioMbMlzhTqwh7SYoDdPg5q9XxgCg2iJXEA2bAdvaV6cg6PfgvZjJmcayRyne3K-gVRnCFGVab_vj7mvQSOvWjlYFfzpDLWkiey0TCapyO3eKxSB0xcdVfntkbLChyphenhyphenTkhu2Q-jpsWGzsylohhGV3eXacIrH9ac7x4r1iSlVwdWJm9iGvIjdiwAjly-PXz97/s4176/Steampunk%20Bottlehead%20Headphone%20Amp%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2784" data-original-width="4176" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioMbMlzhTqwh7SYoDdPg5q9XxgCg2iJXEA2bAdvaV6cg6PfgvZjJmcayRyne3K-gVRnCFGVab_vj7mvQSOvWjlYFfzpDLWkiey0TCapyO3eKxSB0xcdVfntkbLChyphenhyphenTkhu2Q-jpsWGzsylohhGV3eXacIrH9ac7x4r1iSlVwdWJm9iGvIjdiwAjly-PXz97/w640-h426/Steampunk%20Bottlehead%20Headphone%20Amp%201.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>An earlier version of the unit before the heater transformer was added</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>The whole unit is a work of art and has great personality. Despite being Steampunk, there were unique choices. For one much of the copper and brass is shiny and polished vs. aged/scuffed. I think it's great to not force yourself into one line of thinking; make it unique, make it you! Now Greg might have to make a pair of headphones that look equally amazing. </p><p>For more steampunk related audio gear, check out this <b><a href="http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2011/07/steampunk-art-design.html" target="_blank">post</a></b>.<br /></p><p><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="false"
DefSemiHidden="false" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="376">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footer"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of figures"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope return"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="line number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="page number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of authorities"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Mention"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Smart Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hashtag"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Unresolved Mention"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Smart Link"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin-top:0in;
mso-para-margin-right:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:8.0pt;
mso-para-margin-left:0in;
line-height:107%;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:11.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-font-kerning:1.0pt;
mso-ligatures:standardcontextual;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
</p><p class="MsoNormal"><b>Creator's Bio:</b> Greg Ritacco started mis-wiring audio kits in the
1980's. Gradually fire became smoke and smoke became music. Encouraged by
this, Greg briefly pursued a career in audio, first building speakers
and later working for Threshold in the "lab". Family pressures and a
desire to have his own back yard caused Greg to become more
"serious" about his career, and as audio became the stepchild to home theater, and CD's washed vinyl away, Greg gave up and bought a Walkman.
These days, he has rekindled his love of LP's and exploding
electronics, built a few projects, and he and his daughter share their
discoveries of new artists.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Please
remember that building/modifying circuits can be dangerous to you
and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified
technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not /
will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification
posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings.
Many electronics contain high voltages that can kill, and mods, if
performed improperly, can be a fire hazard. </span> <br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a> <br /></p>
HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-92158219380185549622023-03-08T20:40:00.011-05:002023-03-08T20:48:46.684-05:00Million Dollar HiFi Audio System and More!<p>I apologize for the lack of updates this year; everyone has been keeping me quite busy with cables, adapters, custom switchboxes, you name it! A long-time client and buddy of of mine in the area, Eric, has been dipping his feet in the YouTube social media scene and was showing off both his system and his friend Ted (also a client, thank you Ted!) with a million dollar audio system in his modified garage. I think it's a great idea. Who cares if you have to dust some snow off your car if you have a beautiful room full of exquisite audio gear! I wanted to share this eye candy with you all. </p><p>Eric's exquisitely impressive system features some intimidating <a href="http://egglestonworks.com" target="_blank"><b>EgglestonWorks</b></a> speakers (I believe they are the Ivy Signature) connected via <a href="https://www.zynsonix.com" target="_blank"><b>Zynsonix Audio</b></a> speaker cables to some very classy <a href="https://www.mcintoshlabs.com" target="_blank"><b>McIntosh</b></a> gear:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/b0MiiTLaDpU" width="320" youtube-src-id="b0MiiTLaDpU"></iframe></div><br /><p>And Ted's jaw-dropping system with the legendary <a href="https://www.wilsonaudio.com" target="_blank"><b>Wilson Audio</b></a> speakers, beautiful <a href="https://dartzeel.com" target="_blank"><b>darTZeel</b></a> NHB-468 monoblock amps (call me crazy but I love that Iron Man color scheme) and the popular and loved <a href="https://dcsaudio.com/products" target="_blank"><b>dCs Vivaldi Apex DAC</b></a> system: </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/U7HS_e7GbH8" width="320" youtube-src-id="U7HS_e7GbH8"></iframe></div><br /><p>Ted is utilizing some ultra-low impedance <a href="https://www.zynsonix.com" target="_blank"><b>Zynsonix</b></a> interconnects for the critical connection between the turntable and phono preamp. I hope you enjoy! </p><p><br /></p>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0Maryland, USA39.0457549 -76.64127119999999110.735521063821153 -111.79752119999999 67.355988736178844 -41.485021199999991tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-4614223377612312112022-08-17T16:19:00.004-04:002022-08-17T16:22:07.532-04:00Spirit Torino's Super Leggera Headphone Review<p>I’ve been into HiFi audiophile headphones for a couple of
decades now, and the hobby today is probably the biggest it’s ever been. While
headphones were invented in the late 19<sup>th</sup> century, those intended
for musical reproduction got their start in the late 50s with the Koss
Stereophone in 1958. Koss released numerous quality headphones for decades and
remained very popular. In the early 90s, higher-end headphones were having a
renaissance of sorts with Sennheiser making the groundbreaking HD580, Grado
releasing their SR series, and Sony introducing stellar products like the
CD3000. In the 2000s we had AKG release the K701s, Sennheiser the HD600s, Grado
the metal-bodied SR-325s, and Beyerdynamic refreshing and marketing its DT series
for recreational listening. Into the 2010s and the options have exploded far
beyond belief with many more players in the game and brands accommodating many
different tastes. One company that really stands out to me is Grado, a small
family-run business operating out of New York. </p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Grado (pronounced gray-doh) is what I’d consider a
conservative business that hasn’t made many changes as the headphone sector has
turned into a whirlwind of competition. If you look at the SR125 which was
introduced in 1993, it looks nearly the same today, and I’d imagine it is still
produced by hand the same way it was back then. There are the plastic grills
with discs in the middle noting the model number, plastic gimbals and angled
metal rods attaching them to the plastic rod-blocks marked “L” and “R” and
looking inside you can see the driver and the wires running to it soldered by
hand. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNtcsfy_oRc16kzeqfkNh7XYLw64r5V4lunr3Wq4eFAEkt-A7xngHwLAYeOclNokxdtccP6UkxunY27_8gLY6lG5Hb4SW6pfu3CZI927nXJ3qEa918Vh8YkzC_7mdxs8qsgpMAlvNvYJ2yxKh85qfu0w5guhZDOf3_nEpkYkGBktm9UpLjDGgkF9uUNA/s707/Grado%20Hemp.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="707" data-original-width="527" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNtcsfy_oRc16kzeqfkNh7XYLw64r5V4lunr3Wq4eFAEkt-A7xngHwLAYeOclNokxdtccP6UkxunY27_8gLY6lG5Hb4SW6pfu3CZI927nXJ3qEa918Vh8YkzC_7mdxs8qsgpMAlvNvYJ2yxKh85qfu0w5guhZDOf3_nEpkYkGBktm9UpLjDGgkF9uUNA/w299-h400/Grado%20Hemp.jpg" width="299" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Grado Hemp Headphones</td></tr></tbody></table>There’s something very charming about small businesses
making hand-made goods in this day and age where everything is becoming
automated; that’s probably what I like best about Grados. They refuse to
conform and continue their own path, stubbornly ignoring pleas for removable
cables and more comfortable pads. It makes them polarizing, with some people
dismissing them as cheap looking or antiquated compared to new planar magnetics
and dynamic headphones that fully cover the ears, while others embrace their
quirks and often buy more than one. <o:p></o:p><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">If you haven’t heard a Grado before, they have a general
house sound. That would be a little light in the lowest bass, fun punchy sub
bass, neutral mids and crisp, forward high energy in the upper mids and highs.
As you go up the line they become more resolving and refined (generally). New
additions to the stable such as the limited Hemp release and the RS-1X which
incorporates hemp in the wood body are voiced a little more warmly which makes
them great for longer listening sessions free of fatigue. Just about anyone
who’s listened to a Grado will tell you they are great for rock music as you
can really feel the energy come through the music. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">So if you try to distill what makes a Grado a Grado and you
remove all the intangible brand-equity that comes with a family business making
hand-made goods, you’re going to be left with the fairly unique use of rudimentary
gimbals with fixed rods that are inserted into rod-blocks which are held by the
headband, along with 44-50 millimeter dynamic drivers in a smaller driver cup
that doesn’t fully cover the ears.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fu7_h7ZvO_LQNCBTY1L037FtkZ-3DivNFwOTq6bT4J1DdoVTolHTkDyPGMUNHGpMZEJZ00JxB76wtvNxlaVDYTuuI0yY-WRRVq8euPARIpXy5NtYz-LNq0vXYxLrqbAv8Xd2o1M-cDWBjLYjqrRxLI_mRRW9ryqenBwFcFlXG6HVwguChQ_MZox62w/s707/unique%20engraving.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="707" data-original-width="513" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fu7_h7ZvO_LQNCBTY1L037FtkZ-3DivNFwOTq6bT4J1DdoVTolHTkDyPGMUNHGpMZEJZ00JxB76wtvNxlaVDYTuuI0yY-WRRVq8euPARIpXy5NtYz-LNq0vXYxLrqbAv8Xd2o1M-cDWBjLYjqrRxLI_mRRW9ryqenBwFcFlXG6HVwguChQ_MZox62w/s320/unique%20engraving.jpg" width="232" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unique engraving options</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Andrea Ricci, a fellow Grado enthusiast, started modding
headphones using Beyerdynamic and Grado parts in the late 2000s. Creating a
company called Spirit Torino, he began offering items for sale in 2016
including the Spirit Labs MMXVI which were Grados with custom engraved metal
cups, a new headband, specially tuned SR80e drivers and a custom cable. Other
headphones were to come in the following years like the Twin Pulse with
isobaric motor unit. Now a full-fledged company with more mature products and
distribution outside of Italy, Spirit Torino has become a headphone company
that audiophiles should consider when selecting among the other high-end brands
available. <o:p></o:p><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">While once a curiosity, I was finally able to obtain a demo
pair of Spirit Torino headphones for audition. The Super Leggera, which probably
resemble Grados the most out of Andrea’s offerings, are nearly all metal, from
the cups, the rod-blocks, the rods, the driver grill, etc. The cups are
partially anodized and have been CNC engraved. There is a generously sized
suede headband with visible stitching and the pads protrude out the way a Grado
G cushion would. The pads however are fenestrated suede which are probably
about the size of Beyerdynamic DT series pads and look like an offering from
Dekoni. The rod-blocks utilize two Allen screws, one holding the headband, and
the other allowing you to set the position of the rod more permanently. The
second feature is especially important given the weight of the cups, and
something that would be welcome on Grado’s larger metal cupped models. <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie0283bE2vPO7BTnsdDhmWK40WaKtHLMzcD0t8ekjz64WNDqqe1wPhY7RohawGur60thRYywjg249Hnk1t2eJIUnNEBBVmdMKb-95a7TUoGtIAYDQPol-2W4oNjh0r14TJVVzk1Iv6L8dtOhFoS_B9Hkl5CEDf7ySWdeL7tvYTeVcv5hjcRRhLXi0Scg/s2573/Spirit%20Torino%20Super%20Leggara%20audiophile%20headphones%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1887" data-original-width="2573" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie0283bE2vPO7BTnsdDhmWK40WaKtHLMzcD0t8ekjz64WNDqqe1wPhY7RohawGur60thRYywjg249Hnk1t2eJIUnNEBBVmdMKb-95a7TUoGtIAYDQPol-2W4oNjh0r14TJVVzk1Iv6L8dtOhFoS_B9Hkl5CEDf7ySWdeL7tvYTeVcv5hjcRRhLXi0Scg/w640-h470/Spirit%20Torino%20Super%20Leggara%20audiophile%20headphones%202.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Spirit Torino with luxurious suede headband and handy locking screws </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
<p class="MsoNormal">These features, along with the weight, come together to give
a sense of quality / luxury. Another welcome feature is a removable cable, a
feature that really makes far too much sense not to include. Everyone is using
different single ended or balanced connectors, everyone has a different space
between them and their gear, and if you have pets or are just hard on your gear
the cable will likely get damaged, so an easy replacement goes a long way. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">If you like customization, you’ll be very pleased that
Spirit Torino headphones come in a variety of different color cups and
headbands. Plain black doesn’t get to have all the fun like usual, with vibrant
reds, blues, and intricate engravings adorning some models. I get the
impression that Andrea really enjoys the CNC machine as so many of the parts
have been fashioned with it. I believe Grado also uses a CNC machine for
cutting/engraving, however it is limited to the cups. <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-transform: none; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEvoycyuxG-WiG5Odlk7wvooLyngcSE0TGrXxp69pf5unzBu2fbkdW4ZmZC9zKN7OApShjtum-c_NKN8MiobCV-F8I6REWdXTjuYFFLl2LQ2yGWr0ybYeYGNHM0fZ7zsvVsYKxn6n4MPHUodOdm3MnJE5GE-q3NLXSGciG2NzMo3Lgoxq8agFl_JNzRQ/s1908/Spirit%20Torino%20Super%20Leggara%20audiophile%20headphones.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1601" data-original-width="1908" height="538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEvoycyuxG-WiG5Odlk7wvooLyngcSE0TGrXxp69pf5unzBu2fbkdW4ZmZC9zKN7OApShjtum-c_NKN8MiobCV-F8I6REWdXTjuYFFLl2LQ2yGWr0ybYeYGNHM0fZ7zsvVsYKxn6n4MPHUodOdm3MnJE5GE-q3NLXSGciG2NzMo3Lgoxq8agFl_JNzRQ/w640-h538/Spirit%20Torino%20Super%20Leggara%20audiophile%20headphones.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful CNC work everywhere you look.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>So that’s all good and well, but how do they sound, and how
do they stack up against Grados?<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">This review will be comprised of my initial audition of the
Super Leggera, and after I had sent over to Andrea in Italy to have it updated
to the latest revision. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">My first impressions of the non-upgraded version were very
good. I found I liked them best with Todd the Vinyl Junkie (TTVJ) flat pads. Sub-bass
was very powerful and succinct, larger than life and probably a bit too much
for those looking for a balanced headphone. There was a strong authority to
entire sound range where everything was dominant and in-your-face (or ears in
this case). The presentation was full, warm, and not much in the way of
soundstage. The clarity of the highs is usually reduced a little bit when using
the flat pads with Grados, which is also the case here, but many of us like the
tradeoff. The early version Super Leggeras are definitely a fun sounding
headphone with the flats, but clearly not as refined as something like a Focal
Utopia. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Upon speaking with Andrea who runs Spirit Torino, he let me
know that there are a couple of important updates that have been added to the
units, including a “neodymium magnet enhancement of 3.8 kg” on each driver, and
a “Nen Ventilarion” pad system, which may just be a bad Google translation of
ventilated. After a short trip to Italy, these two changes had a profound
impact on the sound, which went from Ibiza dance club to something more akin to
a symphony hall and reminding me of the Grado GS presentation. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">If you’re not familiar with the GS-2000e, it doesn’t have
the peaky upper midrange that defines the Grado “energetic” house sound, but
there is a slight peak there. There is also a pronounced sub-bass energy that
seems present with nearly all Grados. The overall sound is both crisp and full.
Comparing the GS-2000e ($1,399 USD MSRP) to the Super Leggera ($1,600 USD), the
transition from subbass to midrange is the most stand-out change (while still
being a little on the punchy). I believe adding the weight to the back of the
driver assists to make the transition much smoother. Also present was a wider
soundstage, while not as wide as something like the hybrid driver Enigma
Acoustic Dharma headphones, there was more of a palpable space, likely created
from the new ventilated / fenestrated pads. Other than that, the sound seems a
little crisper when it came to guitars, but relatively similar. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">You might be wondering why changing headphone pads makes
such a marked difference. The sound of dynamic drivers like Grado and Spirit
Torino can vary wildly depending on how close they are to your ear. As the
driver gets closer to the ear, bass and fullness increase dramatically while
treble clarity suffers and soundstage shrinks, and when it’s pulled away all
these facets are reversed. Thus, it’s very important to get the position right.
I can tell Spirit Torino went to great lengths to not impair the sound by have
a very thin fabric between the ear and the driver that is barely there and having
the circumaural pads (pads that cover the ears completely) get the driver at a
very specific distance from the ear canal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV3d4NgTpf4IVKr5JyWJH3b6z1zHdYG_7t5kwyJdB5R7YyR8PUqJY08hhASXif08l9G5f9FrQdPi3CHcWTzcZKjqUCMcsQhVALHx2wpmLGTiAchX1asBSqNtkoLXTTDv98vUl-w7U_Ff47PjtFlVMCXiAbWgUPRuuRqr8fdRrj-kGUbnqslIcLLEo1-w/s1878/Spirit%20Torino%20Super%20Leggara%20audiophile%20headphones%203.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1494" data-original-width="1878" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV3d4NgTpf4IVKr5JyWJH3b6z1zHdYG_7t5kwyJdB5R7YyR8PUqJY08hhASXif08l9G5f9FrQdPi3CHcWTzcZKjqUCMcsQhVALHx2wpmLGTiAchX1asBSqNtkoLXTTDv98vUl-w7U_Ff47PjtFlVMCXiAbWgUPRuuRqr8fdRrj-kGUbnqslIcLLEo1-w/w640-h510/Spirit%20Torino%20Super%20Leggara%20audiophile%20headphones%203.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the perforated cups and attractive CNC-cut grill<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>
<p class="MsoNormal">The verdict? Honestly, I liked both the original and latest
version of the Super Leggera for different reasons. The original made thumping
electronica and synthwave wildly exciting, and the latest version worked much
better for acoustic guitar and indie rock genres I enjoy such as shoegaze and
prog. Compared to the GS-2000e the latest version offers a similar sound with a
little more refinement and is built so impressively it’s hard not to gawk at
them before putting them on your head. At $1,600 USD I believe it is priced competitively
for the sound quality, and <b>very reasonable</b> when you consider the build quality.</p><p class="MsoNormal">Justin of Headamp has been in the headphone hobby 20+ years
now and is the U.S. distributor for Spirit Torino. I’ve met him at a few meets
and he’s a great fellow. Drop him a line at <a href="http://Headamp.com"><b>Headamp.com</b></a> if you’d like to check
out this exciting new offering in the headphone world. </p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.headamp.com" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="" data-original-height="90" data-original-width="235" height="123" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjseyEzTt-QHmPbSptdJb5vF89x2rYLD46Km8rh-u2fNb7OD7JcZPn9LgNnl9jP3gux_k7ptU3mx7Y1Z1U-Hk5xLPB0Xc7gQcBuFg8vHOT92KU13B8fORYDyRdn1KeDWSoK5LzRo0w9RYzZKD5bLBnxntJn02sAlG8BpiBuo9wPtV-TEBqHNKwhJCyz-Q" width="320" /></a></div><br /><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Please note the Spirit Torino Super Leggera was provided to
Zynsonix Audio LLC at a discounted rate for an honest review.</span></i><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-4189235671868561652022-04-15T15:47:00.003-04:002022-04-15T15:48:25.574-04:00High-end Custom Audiophile Headphone Cable for HiFiMan Susvaras<p><b>High-end Custom Audiophile Headphone Cable for HiFiMan Susvaras</b></p><p>If you are looking for high-end audiophile wire, ultra pure ohno cast copper, aka UP-OCC, should be on your shortlist. The copper is drawn from much larger crystals so it has a much smoother and cleaner appearance under a microscope versus standard oxygen free copper with a more grainy texture. See below: </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xUph8pie4yA9G4r_BL6KAx56Bo70BkL3egJPNJh00trrSr264G8U8asY4y-ZELShYUPDK-DJ3kdy9cd6yT8n2oEdfKXeR27QJbHVniiLMT9LVOxul-HZB6hFh-IgOopJbGJ4Sdd9_glt51bP6M1iGYpWYtZ24Drh1xKbVKbzLwPmJn9iovNW7yr6TQ/s491/UPOCC%20Copper.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="303" data-original-width="491" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xUph8pie4yA9G4r_BL6KAx56Bo70BkL3egJPNJh00trrSr264G8U8asY4y-ZELShYUPDK-DJ3kdy9cd6yT8n2oEdfKXeR27QJbHVniiLMT9LVOxul-HZB6hFh-IgOopJbGJ4Sdd9_glt51bP6M1iGYpWYtZ24Drh1xKbVKbzLwPmJn9iovNW7yr6TQ/s16000/UPOCC%20Copper.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Thanks to it's long grain structure, UP-OCC is commonly used for higher-end audiophile cables. But what if we wanted something even better? Zynsonix now has access to ultra pure, ohno cast silver (UP-OCS) wire known for even better conductivity. <p></p><p>For this post I'll be assembling a Zynsonix UP-OCS Centurian Octet headphone cable for the HiFiMan Susvaras, easily one of the best headphones on the market. The Susvara's are known to be very unsensitive so that's why the Octet formation is recommended to get the extra juice from your headphone amp or speaker amp to the headphones. </p><p>At the start we will need to hand-braid the UP-OCS silver wire, this is a pair of litz quads which will be running in parallel. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMpwBT0tsNSQCzv_tquTRtmQU76Te8mdy69mexPGfSyV5OV4hnQKrCFJp4HYTqcU0Z5mAfKQJPjSdo6GKR4Zt_35XVgVjJHsvvTcrI1AOoekusZameIUyymen_5j1qguTW-i_FhrPIN1nwLgT4G9IhypfFCmb2jWml5brrKJRrquZYJ9OMhGSBBPVbA/s3444/PCOCC%20PCOCS%20Ohno%20Cast%20Silver%20Cable%20HiFiMan%20Susvara%20Best.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2968" data-original-width="3444" height="552" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMpwBT0tsNSQCzv_tquTRtmQU76Te8mdy69mexPGfSyV5OV4hnQKrCFJp4HYTqcU0Z5mAfKQJPjSdo6GKR4Zt_35XVgVjJHsvvTcrI1AOoekusZameIUyymen_5j1qguTW-i_FhrPIN1nwLgT4G9IhypfFCmb2jWml5brrKJRrquZYJ9OMhGSBBPVbA/w640-h552/PCOCC%20PCOCS%20Ohno%20Cast%20Silver%20Cable%20HiFiMan%20Susvara%20Best.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I like to give the cable a nice snug PTFE Teflon wrap to help reduce unwanted vibration and microphonics. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifF1zgTHp8Q2JpHw_RIPXlP-0GP3RImA5R7-Fg901u11ART4XnGOQX36V_QesptGYkNXyiHtmSomys0OgfpwnPv27PkoLLdiEaqCIDSQfJZ_k3TY4gAKZh3etJSX9KjmxAfF-iKDBp44EiF6aYl1gLBI5grUMGQIkU6zKtUkA26AGBz2IoSzWa0c_VRw/s2172/PCOCC%20PCOCS%20Ohno%20Cast%20Silver%20Cable%20HiFiMan%20Susvara%20Best%20Wrap.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1340" data-original-width="2172" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifF1zgTHp8Q2JpHw_RIPXlP-0GP3RImA5R7-Fg901u11ART4XnGOQX36V_QesptGYkNXyiHtmSomys0OgfpwnPv27PkoLLdiEaqCIDSQfJZ_k3TY4gAKZh3etJSX9KjmxAfF-iKDBp44EiF6aYl1gLBI5grUMGQIkU6zKtUkA26AGBz2IoSzWa0c_VRw/w640-h394/PCOCC%20PCOCS%20Ohno%20Cast%20Silver%20Cable%20HiFiMan%20Susvara%20Best%20Wrap.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next comes the sleeving. We went with ViaBlue's patterned black, red and white patterned sleeving</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoGyV1cBN9luBbTvXEUbI3UZ7-CXnPh4awdc_8hdFfxcc-2og_f0taWiWvpsCoJ0dYs5MGGiBHgoKhv_4Q_Z4oJKnYIKg6DWHviySPrny9oz9-hBzioIwQsr_NbfV0MyNc_q_pA7jeSgT7L6VFUacK2vYLel-Ano3iVetjQcIYBFsQk93xtsm9c47AeQ/s2232/PTFE%20PC-OCC%20Ohno%20Cast%20Silver%20Cable%20HiFiMan%20Susvara%20Cable%201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1470" data-original-width="2232" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoGyV1cBN9luBbTvXEUbI3UZ7-CXnPh4awdc_8hdFfxcc-2og_f0taWiWvpsCoJ0dYs5MGGiBHgoKhv_4Q_Z4oJKnYIKg6DWHviySPrny9oz9-hBzioIwQsr_NbfV0MyNc_q_pA7jeSgT7L6VFUacK2vYLel-Ano3iVetjQcIYBFsQk93xtsm9c47AeQ/w640-h422/PTFE%20PC-OCC%20Ohno%20Cast%20Silver%20Cable%20HiFiMan%20Susvara%20Cable%201.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next step is to add the Zynsonix blind embossed leather tag and Y-splitter.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2T7AG9MDSbq4QXrRNweSjeLXbE4lnNWYiHBxYHtKn6Mul-2jYVVv0JcYbfQ6oenjX6zVNHrVC4NjNk2wkLAn1XEMMum7Yx0yJBPKyINmamIF2fz7k6pwOixlPAYESsYJ_DlPZKgJAZ3EmLTY5rQR6rocTjJCvPRVMXt4QpwNrgKXU4BzirChCMZlTCA/s2376/PTFE%20PCOCC%20Silver%20Cable%20HiFiMan%20Susvara%20Cable.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1782" data-original-width="2376" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2T7AG9MDSbq4QXrRNweSjeLXbE4lnNWYiHBxYHtKn6Mul-2jYVVv0JcYbfQ6oenjX6zVNHrVC4NjNk2wkLAn1XEMMum7Yx0yJBPKyINmamIF2fz7k6pwOixlPAYESsYJ_DlPZKgJAZ3EmLTY5rQR6rocTjJCvPRVMXt4QpwNrgKXU4BzirChCMZlTCA/w640-h480/PTFE%20PCOCC%20Silver%20Cable%20HiFiMan%20Susvara%20Cable.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>And we can terminate the cable with some Cardas Quadeutectic solder, 3.5mm connectors and a Furutech rhodium plated 4 pin XLR for balanced audio. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0PIGuhFreApUoyAKmvi-8dV4qn1uQknMCvOY4-J9GTiH-BLEn6iWG1VkbPmkqkDP-fiV83XeXDdntiAid9nKIVWKx-vj4qE-tzrD0iFhE9jE2RZUsqt031Sqg_H1-eGgo57WBpAx_tbMdWYNRfr6jLU7AdNE3uhI7dcFRI8GDqMaw7UMV958ReI9nVQ/s2708/PTFE%20PC-OCC%20Ohno%20Cast%20Silver%20Cable%20HiFiMan%20Susvara%20Cable%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1842" data-original-width="2708" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0PIGuhFreApUoyAKmvi-8dV4qn1uQknMCvOY4-J9GTiH-BLEn6iWG1VkbPmkqkDP-fiV83XeXDdntiAid9nKIVWKx-vj4qE-tzrD0iFhE9jE2RZUsqt031Sqg_H1-eGgo57WBpAx_tbMdWYNRfr6jLU7AdNE3uhI7dcFRI8GDqMaw7UMV958ReI9nVQ/w640-h436/PTFE%20PC-OCC%20Ohno%20Cast%20Silver%20Cable%20HiFiMan%20Susvara%20Cable%202.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>This is an extremely high performing audio cable that does the HiFiMan Susvaras justice. It's also relatively light despite the extra conductors thanks to the hand-braided UP-OCS. If you'd like to hear the best your Susvaras can sound, please check out the <a href="https://www.zynsonix.com/Imperial-Legate-Cable-for-HiFiMan-Susvara_p_95.html"><b>Zynsonix Imperial Legate</b></a>. It can be terminated in any balanced or single-ended rhodium connection including 4 pin XLR, dual 3 pin XLR, 6.3mm TRS, 4.4mm TRRRS, 3.5mm TRS, 2.5mm TRRS, bananas/spades, or SpeakON connector for Benchmark AHB2.</p><p><br /><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p> </p>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-23575188451325226522022-03-18T16:06:00.004-04:002022-03-25T16:27:52.292-04:00Headphone and Speaker Switchboxes for HiFiMan Susvara<p>I wanted to show a few different solutions for headphone and speaker switchboxes for the HiFiMan Susvara headphones. Everyone knows these are basically the least sensitive headphones on the market so they need to be powered with a speaker amp to sound their best. Speaker amps weren't really made to power 60 ohm headphones, so it's nice to keep them happy with a load closer to what they were designed to output. Also, if you are using multiple amps or one amp for both headphone and speaker duty, it can be pretty annoying to have to get behind your equipment and swap the spades or bananas every time you need to switch. Thus the need for high quality switches that won't degrade the signal. </p><p><br /></p><p>First use case is a gentleman who likes very minimalist looking equipment, thus the limited printed letters on the front. He wanted to be able to use one amp and switch between his Susvaras and his speakers, so simple single switch operation. The headphone outputs are for low sensitivity (Susvaras or HE-6) and high sensitivity for regular headphones. </p><p>This chassis has a 10mm front panel and 2mm for everything else so it has a nice weight to it. This is good for those of you with thick speaker cables. 10mm really has to be machined/milled, most panel mounted parts aren't compatible. In this case we milled so the 4 pin XLRs could be flush mount, and the switch needed some inletting from the back. On the back we have the splendid Cardas CCGS binding posts which are milled copper block covered in gold and rhodium. They're my personal favorite; pricey but you get what you pay for. It also has nice thick aluminum feet with ring dampers but they are hiding underneath. Inside is hand-sleeved high purity soft drawn silver. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgKceQ_zHUzxwvOzcP_dOyJeARJbuSFS1KsNrpN0MmorGSXbDIt2IF2KR6TpVyiOVS3-NtPTTMJlOT0ZSgddEzqSiCehnDi1V9FdHGAFMPYjcxOC_z_wTqR6Yxsyu3XPz1JRWZlItPwKzKF9x5kz_hffDvJuabOialG4CRih8z-GJcT2ImmLsher1Uy0g=s2128" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1400" data-original-width="2128" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgKceQ_zHUzxwvOzcP_dOyJeARJbuSFS1KsNrpN0MmorGSXbDIt2IF2KR6TpVyiOVS3-NtPTTMJlOT0ZSgddEzqSiCehnDi1V9FdHGAFMPYjcxOC_z_wTqR6Yxsyu3XPz1JRWZlItPwKzKF9x5kz_hffDvJuabOialG4CRih8z-GJcT2ImmLsher1Uy0g=w640-h422" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgNh43Qqm4NFwVWZHeulw0ZCP7IU4elaWRgdM2O_55iGCPJpHx5esn_CnODyObiXvLk1gMV7wy1IsN6YjQyAUN8FB--ShqUBzR--LxdqwXPI2aXYcSet-0cAYymQvArKmWixIQCJyDiUGywWmmQxkGUZnsN-zemTZvQqIMxYS9zHajFF8Mgi1XPE-83pA=s2388" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1542" data-original-width="2388" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgNh43Qqm4NFwVWZHeulw0ZCP7IU4elaWRgdM2O_55iGCPJpHx5esn_CnODyObiXvLk1gMV7wy1IsN6YjQyAUN8FB--ShqUBzR--LxdqwXPI2aXYcSet-0cAYymQvArKmWixIQCJyDiUGywWmmQxkGUZnsN-zemTZvQqIMxYS9zHajFF8Mgi1XPE-83pA=w640-h414" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Next we have a slightly more budget oriented build that will allow the user to select one of two amps to either power a pair of speakers or the Susvara headphones. It also has a subwoofer output and an RCA is on the back so the user can ground the chassis to a grounding system if desired.</p><p>Engraved brass plates provide identification for the inputs/outputs and functions. This unit utilizes a set of EAR isolation feet.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEilVYO0ZmdU1at6vtMg13nSz1iTsCO-q660UcYQ1NZqO29QDyM-GyuS_HbTR4EZYneqkGdl_f8XJqeWhCTFreDw2z0_MiZWhm4MuxhX1AJ6V-30jik5-yMzr_PTfDGuu1gWuyJKueZ8v0YbSWkVqwiKCd4AFxZcQQ_uGuL4Qz1roEKWgRfB8ehpanXRJw=s3252" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2380" data-original-width="3252" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEilVYO0ZmdU1at6vtMg13nSz1iTsCO-q660UcYQ1NZqO29QDyM-GyuS_HbTR4EZYneqkGdl_f8XJqeWhCTFreDw2z0_MiZWhm4MuxhX1AJ6V-30jik5-yMzr_PTfDGuu1gWuyJKueZ8v0YbSWkVqwiKCd4AFxZcQQ_uGuL4Qz1roEKWgRfB8ehpanXRJw=w640-h468" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_LM-14OPtEey6jOfhtvNfEL5O2IXQyWOMOPdvJ6PHCGNHN88M08bXj86cTsnUxiS5WvGt9ktm-7-K5k8Jm3I0cjHPVxh3gyZIr1qf8FNpjkZJ0n0slMHiR2CwHDweSim13BWZffOPQXxmfa0KU1JEf-HL-E6z8WiKwml7Cuag26ww0j3QwnuVcZj85w=s2868" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2308" data-original-width="2868" height="516" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_LM-14OPtEey6jOfhtvNfEL5O2IXQyWOMOPdvJ6PHCGNHN88M08bXj86cTsnUxiS5WvGt9ktm-7-K5k8Jm3I0cjHPVxh3gyZIr1qf8FNpjkZJ0n0slMHiR2CwHDweSim13BWZffOPQXxmfa0KU1JEf-HL-E6z8WiKwml7Cuag26ww0j3QwnuVcZj85w=w640-h516" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>This one isn't necessarily for a Susvara but it allows the user to select between 3 balanced headphone amps and 4 balanced headphones. It features nice Grayhill switches and hand-sleeved high purity soft-drawn silver. The knobs are milled aluminum. The 3 inputs are on the back of the unit. Remember to turn down the amplifiers before switching for two reasons, one tube amps need a load, and two, you could inadvertently switch to a higher sensitivity headphone and the high volume could harm it. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgTUFKSz6FD8y7Su6ZPDAl1bIujRlmRpoNtaLhMZq7znT35ARqQIQBG-MV8QTfA76yYqMAhroI5v_pKPR1hS78vgQa1QWr53m6aszSPzEDS744EsmACt1u7q6fR2fEkAq9vOPWmQqUy2AU5J_x4WBt3ZE_IeleMVhWu44QZCBGSdCHvsSWSVAgSqrad2g=s3804" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2956" data-original-width="3804" height="498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgTUFKSz6FD8y7Su6ZPDAl1bIujRlmRpoNtaLhMZq7znT35ARqQIQBG-MV8QTfA76yYqMAhroI5v_pKPR1hS78vgQa1QWr53m6aszSPzEDS744EsmACt1u7q6fR2fEkAq9vOPWmQqUy2AU5J_x4WBt3ZE_IeleMVhWu44QZCBGSdCHvsSWSVAgSqrad2g=w640-h498" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhKV8Kq2uSPFWK9Ja1th4g6FCNcecOZRe6GsqnU2PbpGqpd4rPRdLl8aG4lPGJWNmecxeclRemIQjGTGqGCuhUayYYay7V_GA7fow_wSAMcRF4MX-aw-N-Kp1F3PIw2c5X6q78ij_e_Q9s0U5829x_drGHhDdXq2zAxtt02YifnwfCV9VbDvkGFUc27LA=s2370" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1842" data-original-width="2370" height="498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhKV8Kq2uSPFWK9Ja1th4g6FCNcecOZRe6GsqnU2PbpGqpd4rPRdLl8aG4lPGJWNmecxeclRemIQjGTGqGCuhUayYYay7V_GA7fow_wSAMcRF4MX-aw-N-Kp1F3PIw2c5X6q78ij_e_Q9s0U5829x_drGHhDdXq2zAxtt02YifnwfCV9VbDvkGFUc27LA=w640-h498" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I make a lot of these types of projects but these I found to be some of the more interesting ones. As always you can order a speaker amp to headphone converter that can switch between low and high sensitivity modes, and can switch between 4 pin and 1/4" outputs. This one has a speakON connector for use with a Benchmark AHB2 Amplifier. The Benchmark is a popular choice to use with the Susvaras.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgicl6MKC73ATVdEy_OTsqceTaHG3aFsQvCBpbvYspU3aXK9e2-6H-Gs2vZyrgUaWXM4lPb8at6KBbj383YNC5fKU0j_vHjRFxZ9VX1Es78bMchXzNLymRil_QdUEPhumjSkhSK6mVQEosfLaTLvdfbaRwvetmzmTJ1WMJQHwHeh4DF2fq-etp2u7SQ6A=s1391" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1028" data-original-width="1391" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgicl6MKC73ATVdEy_OTsqceTaHG3aFsQvCBpbvYspU3aXK9e2-6H-Gs2vZyrgUaWXM4lPb8at6KBbj383YNC5fKU0j_vHjRFxZ9VX1Es78bMchXzNLymRil_QdUEPhumjSkhSK6mVQEosfLaTLvdfbaRwvetmzmTJ1WMJQHwHeh4DF2fq-etp2u7SQ6A=w640-h472" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiFdAE1WCDHfkon1cP9pXsV69BAB31oMe5bhduArwWsxzMkmvK9OZ0Dd0Xd9tK4Jtm2IX9UXWhhmsIewK1FKZUzbYn4yDaahF_mzwyvEjLBJBZOzFgheHyjDH3ZSbG1FBSeV5Ik7hjsytd9x8KwRdVaLbpud6MFXXJcbMaMheHiXlSoIYPvZr5rR_JLEA=s1307" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1021" data-original-width="1307" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiFdAE1WCDHfkon1cP9pXsV69BAB31oMe5bhduArwWsxzMkmvK9OZ0Dd0Xd9tK4Jtm2IX9UXWhhmsIewK1FKZUzbYn4yDaahF_mzwyvEjLBJBZOzFgheHyjDH3ZSbG1FBSeV5Ik7hjsytd9x8KwRdVaLbpud6MFXXJcbMaMheHiXlSoIYPvZr5rR_JLEA=w640-h500" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I hope you enjoyed this little gallery. If you need a custom high-end headphone or speaker switcher you know where to <a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" target="_blank"><b>find me</b></a> :) <br /><p class="MsoNormal">If you are trying to power low-sensitivity headphones via a speaker amplifier, please check out the <a href="https://www.zynsonix.com/Speaker-Amp-to-Headphone-Converter-Box_p_36.html"><b>CBOX</b></a> at <a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/"><b>Zynsonix.com</b></a>. It provides a safe consistent load for your amplifier while delivering the juice your headphones need. </p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></p><p><br /></p>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-57604483577141226982022-01-18T16:23:00.013-05:002022-01-18T16:35:14.017-05:00The MOD Rock Bottom Guitar Effects Pedal<p style="text-align: left;"><i><span face="Calibri, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Today's post is a guest post from my bud Ryan Price and covers the MOD </span></span><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rock Bottom Pedal</span><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">. Ryan's been getting his feet wet in the DIY audio scene and doesn't shy away from some classic point-to-point wiring. </span></i></p><p style="text-align: left;"><i><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></i></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Please excuse the possible lack of common decorum for a post. This is my first one and it’s a learning process. I picked up a DIY guitar pedal build kit by </span><a href="https://moddevices.com" style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">MOD</a><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"> from </span><a href="https://www.amplifiedparts.com" style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;" target="_blank">Amplified parts</a><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">. I chose the Rock Bottom pedal for a few reasons. First is I wanted an analog Fuzz. Second is the extended low end so I can use it with both bass and guitar. the “3” rating seemed like a challenge for a pedal build novice with some soldering experience. Considering that I have plenty of time to kill as I’m currently recovering from a recent heart transplant, I went for it even if it was gonna be just outside my skill set so far. I was able to finish it over the course of about 4-6 hours over a few nights. </span></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-e9d798e8-7fff-1ed8-f4ed-d1feae11fb20"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NCJMN6i2XSO0--hfCUaXGxr_H05QTzS1dgLZ74VeoE0OmZ6NJ0cabbHJz_Vh8mcFVTziQiUlhqVEHDnnDA7r3Fn_n6f7mx323UusIrMN8TUVWkv4VNU3fYM2s8RsAA0KguM79Zrd=w321-h400" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px;" width="321" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Pedal Kit</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;">Now for the breakdown. The MOD kit comes with everything you need minus tools and solder. I used a Hakko 888D soldering iron but for this application most would suffice I believe. Hand tools I used were a MusicNomad guitar multitool, strippers, dikes, hemostats, and some modified pliers. I put a bit of shrink tube around the jaws so as not to damage wire and components. While the kit comes with everything you need the wire is not easy to work with if you don’t have a solder pot. I own one but did not have access to it at the time of the build. I substituted the wire with some I had left over from a previous project. Its if a smaller gauge but of much higher quality. That’s the only substitution I made. </p></span><p style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"></p><p style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgwEmrEkwb9qwH8YZLBzxGQOko5mMe8iQtgl35rISiyJMFxBUbYH4KtP9PrOwx9ivYejwztRT3qZyjFtWAn6xvUcyVsoMA2bAu6WmQrPuFZrGwagkgEklp1Z3KZ9JE3h0Rq1BMHFKxWHbZ5n-C235tcvNl08x4uavuu7mBOmVvJunfoAs9lMGcFEOGA1Q=s1600" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgwEmrEkwb9qwH8YZLBzxGQOko5mMe8iQtgl35rISiyJMFxBUbYH4KtP9PrOwx9ivYejwztRT3qZyjFtWAn6xvUcyVsoMA2bAu6WmQrPuFZrGwagkgEklp1Z3KZ9JE3h0Rq1BMHFKxWHbZ5n-C235tcvNl08x4uavuu7mBOmVvJunfoAs9lMGcFEOGA1Q=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tools of the Trade</td></tr></tbody></table><span><br /></span><span><br />The build is rather straightforward. Starting with terminal strips, switches, and connectors. The layout is very straight forward and with some planning can be a super clean build. <br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgVVhzdq8fSj9vaPQQpfY83iVJvRgwf5RxURnErEAby3YVNDaQPpIbOxhr9-IWiumdpi6Qk0a11h811WRhXbAwvZmv0tvSNVGt65Wj9GxbGUCj8mjCKZKx6f-i1AVZ4TRgAh_WmmMENQmlBMyP1qdZW57ntAPfNM-kocZk9Z4ZWUeICylSgUm8sD4mMnw=s1064" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="846" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgVVhzdq8fSj9vaPQQpfY83iVJvRgwf5RxURnErEAby3YVNDaQPpIbOxhr9-IWiumdpi6Qk0a11h811WRhXbAwvZmv0tvSNVGt65Wj9GxbGUCj8mjCKZKx6f-i1AVZ4TRgAh_WmmMENQmlBMyP1qdZW57ntAPfNM-kocZk9Z4ZWUeICylSgUm8sD4mMnw=w318-h400" width="318" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic Turret Strips</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br />Next they have you measure out the wire. As I followed the directions closely up to this point I found the lengths a bit on the long side <i>(editors note: you can make the wires shorter depending on your OCD level)</i>. But I can see why as its easy to trim to size. Not so easy to add length! Now I got ahead of myself and terminated both ends of the runs as I was building. For my next build I plan to take things a bit slower. Before terminating any connection I will dry fit all components, bend and run, then get a plan of how to go forward. The directions are decent there are a few times you run into overlapping components. </span><div><span><br /></span><br /><span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEidk7d-ZqrOnjjLMQoI6d8C65aiVu5BHw2-VpoyGkceJpYFrXtYFo5FDgEcs5rtwQvZXEKMkzvwkPvElPxWRQYsHOlL1bcVKV171IlMeExcfqFjNChA8u5HAs-yARE_IVzNWLWIyHsJ1fBQ4_Eg3Z3uqrseHq0X27VWE9474-aDF-l9OKJIhCsi3h1kDQ=s1236" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1236" data-original-width="1151" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEidk7d-ZqrOnjjLMQoI6d8C65aiVu5BHw2-VpoyGkceJpYFrXtYFo5FDgEcs5rtwQvZXEKMkzvwkPvElPxWRQYsHOlL1bcVKV171IlMeExcfqFjNChA8u5HAs-yARE_IVzNWLWIyHsJ1fBQ4_Eg3Z3uqrseHq0X27VWE9474-aDF-l9OKJIhCsi3h1kDQ=w373-h400" width="373" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wired Up</td></tr></tbody></table></span><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Component layout is definitely the most difficult part of the build and you should take your time. Plan ahead and follow the directions. That will make this build a breeze. Don’t get ahead of yourself and begin terminating at a whim like I did as you will regret it. It will also take more time than doing a layout before assembly. Trust me on that one! </p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiQs7h_dGlWslLVkYG0hEd2d__X3leJe70gZLw9hMzVV8SXGHutNVH5Y2Wh7tCKBrN_b1wwe17PPqAe54DoPDX85lSEU8n_iUH0-aBu7oQF_RAtsABUzL1xVstlZ8aViyaWTez9W0ArwwJMluEsh0kxgacAsgY01RGKX6hWh3TxpLOpxED_Kd_R3uTqyQ=s1600" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiQs7h_dGlWslLVkYG0hEd2d__X3leJe70gZLw9hMzVV8SXGHutNVH5Y2Wh7tCKBrN_b1wwe17PPqAe54DoPDX85lSEU8n_iUH0-aBu7oQF_RAtsABUzL1xVstlZ8aViyaWTez9W0ArwwJMluEsh0kxgacAsgY01RGKX6hWh3TxpLOpxED_Kd_R3uTqyQ=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All Parts Installed</td></tr></tbody></table><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span><p></p>Once I fixed all my errors (there were many) it came together nicely. Powered right up and gave me sweet, sweet two transistor Fuzz! This pedal is a massive bang for your buck win. I can recommend it 100% to all but the most novice of DIY people. I can’t wait to build another MOD pedal in the near future. Amplified Parts has a great selection of all related components and tools <i>(Editors note: if you're a knob snob they have a nice selection)</i>. As well as super solid shipping. I can’t recommend them enough. <p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhPXKK7QmCEdgcVceRTGcee8Tmy-vQgIlVgbtD30Ep0hhrYgaGTocDGWlHdDk83qKP5XUhZiEOV5K4tBcm9QfEkIFixD-iw79r4IFzpdqh1ux-bqztAuCwyEu4irVSX8_iRolowv1kSZ_7gFWqo1puTBdJ6zXH4-q2WLPLblfhgxc2bnJyuVOFCIjE1Ng=s1016" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1016" data-original-width="849" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhPXKK7QmCEdgcVceRTGcee8Tmy-vQgIlVgbtD30Ep0hhrYgaGTocDGWlHdDk83qKP5XUhZiEOV5K4tBcm9QfEkIFixD-iw79r4IFzpdqh1ux-bqztAuCwyEu4irVSX8_iRolowv1kSZ_7gFWqo1puTBdJ6zXH4-q2WLPLblfhgxc2bnJyuVOFCIjE1Ng=w334-h400" width="334" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Up</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">So if you’re got some soldering skills, desire to DIY, and a few hours I say go for it! </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I left the sticker off. My wife is an artist and I’m going to have her paint and label the pedal!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;">(</span><i style="font-size: 14.6667px;">Editors note: we'll update the story when Ryan and his wife are all done.</i><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;">)</span></span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></div>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-10002535936507864902021-06-01T17:23:00.004-04:002022-04-15T15:54:15.706-04:00Emotiva BasX A-100 Stereo Flex Amplifier Review<p>This is a review of the headphone output of the <a href="https://emotiva.com">Emotiva</a> BasX
A-100 Stereo Flex Amplifier. If you’re not familiar, Emotiva makes some great
audio products at incredibly attractive price-points. They offer a host of
speakers, headphones, amplifiers, processors, and other gear. I have owned
their portable DACs which are a tremendous value; I ended up parting ways for
lack of need. They were quite good sounding though and offered a robust build
quality. I currently have some of their power equipment which is also well
built. If I were a home theater afficionado, I’d likely have even more of their
gear.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Emotiva has a value-oriented 2 channel amp called the BasX
A-100. Normally it is a speaker amp providing 50 watts per channel into 8 Ohms
and 80 Watts per channel into 4 Ohms, which is plenty for most setups. What is
also pleasing for those with limited in-house real-estate is that the unit is
half width, so 8-1/2” wide x 3.125” high x 15” deep. That saves half of your
shelf for another piece of equipment/some headphones or something else. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Perhaps what is most interesting about the A-100 is that it
can be used as a high-powered headphone amp. Granted, very few people would
need this capability, but it is there. The unit does need to be internally
jumpered for this operation as it is unsafe for standard headphones. The output
is:<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">8 Ohms: 50 watts / channel<br />
33 Ohms: 12 watts / channel<br />
47 Ohms: 8.5 watts / channel<br />
150 Ohms: 2.6 watts / channel<br />
300 Ohms: 1.3 watts / channel<br />
600 Ohms: 0.6 watts / channel<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">So, what headphone owners would be interested in this
feature? Owners of low-sensitivity headphones like the HiFiMan Susvara, HiFiMan
HE-6 or HE-6se, the HEDDPhones, the Abyss AB-1266, and others.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Normally I use an <a href="https://www.zynsonix.com/Speaker-Amp-to-Headphone-Converter-Box_p_36.html"><b>external box</b></a> with some high quality resistors
to convert a speaker amp’s output for headphones (it has some protections built
in for amps with output transformers) but given the low cost of the A-100, it
was a no-brainer to at least try it out. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Starting with the good news, the A-100 produced plenty of
usable volume with the HE-6se and drove them with spades. There are some
caveats though. The first, I noticed the amp takes a bit of time to warm up.
When listening immediately, the midrange wasn’t well defined. After 10-15
minutes this seems to go away. Second, I found the sound to be fairly
cool/bright and slightly lacking on the low end. This isn’t a big deal if you
don’t mind EQing. I found reducing the upper midrange and increasing the low
range to help make the sound more agreeable for my personal preferences. If you
are listening from a computer, you can use the free program PEACE to make
adjustments, if not, you can pick up something like the JDS Labs Subjective3 or
the Schiit Loki. Neither of these offer an ideal level of control to get the
A-100 exactly right (for me), but they are well made and get the job done
affordably.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivQVgNeK2JxFlDxUU2ZlzrTE_Sl7g7-SvfSwWIqHRQB9l5HHXO4lgXkIh9TL4lRmorpq83tm7-SSGkZsoWOZNfnpZ5IQCRNrVw4mtk_5fozw3ZdOcW0j-1tYkKqNeX7bU3hrEUKlBFP_CH/s2048/Emotiva+BasX+with+HiFiMan+HE-6+SE+Review.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1467" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivQVgNeK2JxFlDxUU2ZlzrTE_Sl7g7-SvfSwWIqHRQB9l5HHXO4lgXkIh9TL4lRmorpq83tm7-SSGkZsoWOZNfnpZ5IQCRNrVw4mtk_5fozw3ZdOcW0j-1tYkKqNeX7bU3hrEUKlBFP_CH/w458-h640/Emotiva+BasX+with+HiFiMan+HE-6+SE+Review.jpg" width="458" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Running the HifiMan HE-6se with the Emotiva A-100</td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">It seems that perhaps the weakest link of the A-100 is its
potentiometer (volume control). Early into turning it, there was very noticeable
channel imbalance. This seemed to subside quickly as the volume rose; however,
it is important to note. A good potentiometer can be costly, so this was likely
a price point issue. Given an Alps Blue Velvet (RK27), a frequently used entry-level
potentiometer for audio, is around $12 per piece in bulk, it would be very hard
to implement at this price level. <o:p></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRwaRIoevplDl0k5Rggu5f6w_9_fznaqi5ClZc9AcHpUk9g97RJDLRqmSH5qD8_z-2GoEO9SgZs5nTuc9VGsn9SZrADLl3miHyGdikaYW24ds9JOZs4OfOpbyB95O-nFQHzR2qBlAVWMuS/s2048/Emotiva+BasX+with+HiFiMan+HE-6+SE+Review+inside.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRwaRIoevplDl0k5Rggu5f6w_9_fznaqi5ClZc9AcHpUk9g97RJDLRqmSH5qD8_z-2GoEO9SgZs5nTuc9VGsn9SZrADLl3miHyGdikaYW24ds9JOZs4OfOpbyB95O-nFQHzR2qBlAVWMuS/w480-h640/Emotiva+BasX+with+HiFiMan+HE-6+SE+Review+inside.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You get a lot for your money in terms of parts and build</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br />Overall, the Emotiva BasX A-100 Stereo Flex Amplifier is
impressive at its price point given the heft, solid and attractive build, and
ability to send 50 WPC to a pair of headphones. Also the internal rectified
power supply (no wall wart) is typically reserved for more expensive gear. If
you were in the position to have purchased some HiFiMan HE-6 or HE-6se and had
very little left over for a suitable amp, this is probably the only game in
town, aside from potentially the balanced output of the Schiit Magnius which I
haven’t yet tested. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">If you were only interested in powering speakers and don’t
mind purchasing used gear, you might want to cross-shop an older receiver from
a reputable brand like Yamaha, Onkyo, Outlaw, or Denon. If you are DIY-minded,
a chip amp like Akitika is a good route to investigate for speakers. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">If you are trying to power low-sensitivity headphones via a speaker amplifier, please check out the <a href="https://www.zynsonix.com/Speaker-Amp-to-Headphone-Converter-Box_p_36.html"><b>CBOX</b></a> at <a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/">Zynsonix.com</a>. It provides a safe consistent load for your amplifier while delivering the juice your headphones need. </p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></p>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-31827355169055635512021-05-04T17:54:00.009-04:002021-05-10T17:23:59.290-04:00Overnight Sensation DIY Speaker Kit Assembly Step by Step<p>In this post I’ll be building <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy" target="_blank">Paul Carmody</a>’s Overnight
Sensation DIY speakers from a kit. The Overnight Sensations are an extremely popular DIY bookshelf
speaker for a few different reasons. One, cost; they are a mere $120-140 a pair
at the time of this writing. Two, they sound great. It’s hard for me to recall
hearing such dynamic sound from a diminutively sized form factor. Three, the
build is super easy. If you have some basic tools and know how to solder,
you’re all set. This post is going to be written for a beginner in mind, so if
you are already experienced feel free to skip along.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">There are three places I know of to get a kit. <a href="https://www.parts-express.com/Overnight-Sensations-MT-Speaker-Pair-Kit-300-706" target="_blank">Partsexpress</a> which includes the full kit with wood panel flatpack and accessories, <a href="https://meniscusaudio.com/product/overnight-sensation-loudspeaker-kit/" target="_blank">MeniscusAudio</a> which does not include the flatpack but comes with tweeters with screw-in
frames, which I feel is preferable should one need to replace them down the line,
and <a href="https://www.diysoundgroup.com/overnight-sensations.html" target="_blank">DIY Sound Group</a>,
which appears to have a similar kit to Partsexpress. <o:p></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipCfigQFspBUsxj9T1zMYXQx5pzvh3pfuJCkT0ADYfOsvPl0rADkuAoSht40oSOoxrwYeFkUmem3qjDvaYGoLBW1wDJ79Mh551R7MidOJwqNJOS-MTmJGxgd_zOorku50qSCeSlq0jCd7I/s298/OS+kit.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="251" data-original-width="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipCfigQFspBUsxj9T1zMYXQx5pzvh3pfuJCkT0ADYfOsvPl0rADkuAoSht40oSOoxrwYeFkUmem3qjDvaYGoLBW1wDJ79Mh551R7MidOJwqNJOS-MTmJGxgd_zOorku50qSCeSlq0jCd7I/s0/OS+kit.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>A typical Overnight Sensation kit</b></td></tr></tbody></table>
<p class="MsoNormal">What will you need besides the kits? Each one is a little
different, so pay attention to the parts list, but you will likely also need a
set of binding posts, 5/8” black wood screws, sandpaper, wood glue, wood
filler, and solder. Optionally, you will also want sealing caulk, <a href="https://www.parts-express.com/Acousta-Stuf-Polyfill-1-lb.-Bag-260-317">polyfill</a> or
similar solution, and either paint or staining supplies depending on how you’d
like to finish the speaker. Tools you will need include bar clamps (or trigger
clamps), soldering iron, electric sander, and a power drill. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">If you don’t already own clamps, they are going to be a bit
of an investment. You ideally need 6 or so and they run about $15 each, so
potentially check with a friend to borrow a set if that’s a problem. If you
decide to buy a set, get a couple that are longer than you need as well so
they’ll be around when you go to make a bigger speaker later <span face=""Segoe UI Emoji",sans-serif" style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol-ext; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: "Segoe UI Emoji";">😉</span>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">If you purchase a unit with a flat pack, the wood will be
trimmed for easy assembly. You will simply add wood glue between the joints,
clamp the enclosure together, and wipe away any excess wood glue with a wet
paper towel. Ideally you will leave one side open so you can finalize the
internals before sealing it up. Some people also prefer to only screw-in the
rear panel with a few modifications, that way you can get in there later if
need be. If you follow this route, be sure to find a good solution to seal the
edges so only the port is allowing air out of the chamber. Some people also
like to mount the crossovers outside so they can modify them later. If that
floats your boat, the world is your oyster. <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">For my assembly, I found a set of crossover PCBs on eBay
which I believe are made by DIYSoundGroup. They are very reasonable, and I
highly recommend them as they make things so much faster and easier than
drawing out the arrangement from the schematic, figuring out a good layout,
gluing the parts in place and then wiring everything point to point. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6M0KZP2kx3rsO1Gx-Xx4C3ID_Hn2QAk4Px1t8qAoXv_azrymVCaRMClS38ewXFD7Vs-wUFhdZJMHydgcW8XXcX857G_YttgVNicWzAr6caJLPBPrHQGAiZLy92RHJAQE-ix3pVlFMz49/s2048/Overnight+sensations+DIY+crossover+PCBs.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1294" data-original-width="2048" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6M0KZP2kx3rsO1Gx-Xx4C3ID_Hn2QAk4Px1t8qAoXv_azrymVCaRMClS38ewXFD7Vs-wUFhdZJMHydgcW8XXcX857G_YttgVNicWzAr6caJLPBPrHQGAiZLy92RHJAQE-ix3pVlFMz49/w400-h253/Overnight+sensations+DIY+crossover+PCBs.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>PCB Crossover for Overnight Sensations</b></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHhOI3CZyHZLMoarprPhyphenhyphenmiQp02lNz6nlzJM4IKbG7N7B11q1klAnkxBylIdv05DtlvA1ooNXtkPQIsL6mNPuIuOHJtuSMiNQd_u0Uijb7s8H0T6p2JbpziflV9FH7C9CbPOO8yY5emlz/s2048/Overnight+sensations+DIY+crossovers+capacitors.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1440" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHhOI3CZyHZLMoarprPhyphenhyphenmiQp02lNz6nlzJM4IKbG7N7B11q1klAnkxBylIdv05DtlvA1ooNXtkPQIsL6mNPuIuOHJtuSMiNQd_u0Uijb7s8H0T6p2JbpziflV9FH7C9CbPOO8yY5emlz/w450-h640/Overnight+sensations+DIY+crossovers+capacitors.jpg" width="450" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Populated Crossover</b></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p class="MsoNormal">That being
said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with going that way, and you have more
freedom to use larger caps if desired. Some will also say point to point sounds
better than going through PCB traces, but that subject is better left for
squabbling on audio forums somewhere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">For my build I chose to assemble the crossover first and
mount the PCB on the bottom panel. The Dayton caps are solid and work perfectly well here. I prefer Mills wirewound over sandcast resistors, they're worth the extra if you can swing it, and I had a pair of surplus Mundorf capacitors for the 0.22uF position, but sticking with all Dayton caps is fine too. This is a budget build so you won't get too much yield from bumping up the parts quality. The interior of the other panels is adorned
with <a href="https://www.dynamat.com" target="_blank">Dynamat</a>-like sheets for internal damping. There are plenty of brands out there at different price points, but try to get thicker ones for the purpose of adding mass. I personally like to use a staple gun to really keep the sheets on there. Not necessary, but low cost insurance they won't move. It’s important to not completely
cover the panels as wood glue, then later caulk will be used to ensure all the
corners of the cabinets are sealed. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Once the panels are all prepped, then they can be glued and
clamped. The low-cost <a href="http://www.titebond.com" target="_blank">Titebond</a> wood glue in the red and clear bottle works well
and is inexpensive. For clamps, generally I like to leave them on overnight
while the wood glue completely dries, however with most brands you can
disassemble after about a half hour or so, so long as you aren’t putting any
pressure on the panels. <o:p></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4cx4mBmyzB22bDl_BFM8g9frAl90LMEL5P5BrXJP5Exp-x8Uyqc9AmHfTyWFcKEcHZEQjslkIuDOEPOiBjRSjVUUGw1aWWLJ5pPxnldLPI5WW3ETMg-d94ifvoN-nmj8jtvY-igwecSt/s2048/Overnight+sensations+DIY+speakers+clamped.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1375" data-original-width="2048" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4cx4mBmyzB22bDl_BFM8g9frAl90LMEL5P5BrXJP5Exp-x8Uyqc9AmHfTyWFcKEcHZEQjslkIuDOEPOiBjRSjVUUGw1aWWLJ5pPxnldLPI5WW3ETMg-d94ifvoN-nmj8jtvY-igwecSt/w640-h430/Overnight+sensations+DIY+speakers+clamped.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>The more clamps the better!</b></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I left off the front baffle so I could get my hands in for
the removal of excess glue and caulking of the corners. The binding posts I’m
using are Partsexpress’ gold heavy duty ones along with the nice-looking
mounting plates. Normally I use <a href="http://www.cardas.com" target="_blank">Cardas</a> copper billet posts however this is a
more affordable build, so I wanted to keep it that way. Most binding posts are
gold plated brass so will sound pretty similar; however, you don’t want
anything flimsy that will fail overtime or loosen up inside as once the speaker
is sealed. Once it is, you’ll have trouble getting back in there to fix
anything. <o:p></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn_yUQgL2QMNHj8p1kgs6d3z3YnOm-z6FUj11frPjmPhFUC3DECb0TEFuQ-i8_jQyKj1RZucropN1Nrsfjp8mzzAiVoviFZyg4JaNnz0biRXVF1VsTeIO0r_iUuERWqIQStD8KjQnt99Gd/s2048/Partsexpress+DIY+speaker+binding+posts.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1245" data-original-width="2048" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn_yUQgL2QMNHj8p1kgs6d3z3YnOm-z6FUj11frPjmPhFUC3DECb0TEFuQ-i8_jQyKj1RZucropN1Nrsfjp8mzzAiVoviFZyg4JaNnz0biRXVF1VsTeIO0r_iUuERWqIQStD8KjQnt99Gd/w400-h244/Partsexpress+DIY+speaker+binding+posts.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Partsexpress Heavy Posts</b></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBPhdyHZLgFwr1tYjOF0y9mLTbOKRaqHaCh0v4H4tGQ_Oq4pNyUqMIfa0GyylDx2FHpTmpGKLRpzoBDXq0V8cXjLesqFBgUoSXzAZ4nL-VsPrb12vvKmlJcMJCQES458Qn3jkQiD7W9Gc7/s2048/Partsexpress+DIY+speaker+binding+posts+2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Partsexpress binding posts" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1447" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBPhdyHZLgFwr1tYjOF0y9mLTbOKRaqHaCh0v4H4tGQ_Oq4pNyUqMIfa0GyylDx2FHpTmpGKLRpzoBDXq0V8cXjLesqFBgUoSXzAZ4nL-VsPrb12vvKmlJcMJCQES458Qn3jkQiD7W9Gc7/w283-h400/Partsexpress+DIY+speaker+binding+posts+2.jpg" title="Be sure to measure before drilling as the plate takes up a lot of real estate." width="283" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Measure before drilling as the plate takes up some real-estate.</b></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Also, while the speaker is still open, I ran wiring from the
PCB to the areas where the drivers and binding posts will be. Again, it’s
important to get the lengths and connections right as it will be difficult to
access later. You don’t need thick wire as the lengths are going to be short so
the resistance is minimal. I used 19 gauge for the tweeter and 16 gauge for the
woofer and binding posts. <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7noFcjfaZD8SrkwUfr9vbgGi3oVn00zqa9lmWEfnEp6bwAPsd1oqIIOBHw07WcIYpPAUXi35m6TMFlYsUl9ThcQgWUnB1BcKp0Rtdz28OacfWMQsiVbnz41Or9U6xqCH9etk6Y75XVJ0o/s2048/Overnight+sensations+internal+diy+speaker+back.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1759" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7noFcjfaZD8SrkwUfr9vbgGi3oVn00zqa9lmWEfnEp6bwAPsd1oqIIOBHw07WcIYpPAUXi35m6TMFlYsUl9ThcQgWUnB1BcKp0Rtdz28OacfWMQsiVbnz41Or9U6xqCH9etk6Y75XVJ0o/w344-h400/Overnight+sensations+internal+diy+speaker+back.jpg" width="344" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Wires running from the PCB</b></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2BSPPqeyMkwT_3gQZX7Y8Qez80WR15DAE39lvIt-GADFOFWdGEMdb3kYqoHjSi66N0Fz4Z-0ZShlFSO1GFurH5fAHAzfQy9Emh9robxqrNnNVJcBrxT1ZhSMr48nHKb7h-l62EX2Xn3gi/s2048/Overnight+sensations+internal+diy+speaker+PCB+2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1606" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2BSPPqeyMkwT_3gQZX7Y8Qez80WR15DAE39lvIt-GADFOFWdGEMdb3kYqoHjSi66N0Fz4Z-0ZShlFSO1GFurH5fAHAzfQy9Emh9robxqrNnNVJcBrxT1ZhSMr48nHKb7h-l62EX2Xn3gi/w502-h640/Overnight+sensations+internal+diy+speaker+PCB+2.jpg" width="502" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Note placement of damping sheets</b></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><br /></div>
<p class="MsoNormal">When everything is ready inside, the front baffle can be
glued and clamped in place. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu3DoFD5WjggGdfermUzvYK3QS-hdQ-cTA9q6QBQ4mXP1KD2w7ZCjLvrFxK2j4KhV2nQOtxeyUBgaSu1Dp9bho1ENYxULSiQstX38suE4XfercjEBe22GTJl23CP8WAbHp0HtqDUYR_krc/s2048/Overnight+sensations+DIY+speakers+front+panel.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1727" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu3DoFD5WjggGdfermUzvYK3QS-hdQ-cTA9q6QBQ4mXP1KD2w7ZCjLvrFxK2j4KhV2nQOtxeyUBgaSu1Dp9bho1ENYxULSiQstX38suE4XfercjEBe22GTJl23CP8WAbHp0HtqDUYR_krc/w541-h640/Overnight+sensations+DIY+speakers+front+panel.jpg" width="541" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">Once dry, now is a good time to sand where the
panels meet to ensure the transitions are smooth. Start with rougher grade
sandpaper (60-80 grit) and working your way up. Using finer than 100 grit can
sometimes cause issues with this type of wood taking stain, so consult the kit
manufacturer if you are staining the wood. There will be small gaps in some
cases where the wood touches. This is fine and can be fixed by using wood
filler. There are plenty of varieties out there like Elmer’s, Minwax, DAP, etc.
and all work well, but if you are staining, you will want a stainable filler. <o:p></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIqRctEVLKynoOQFmb0nhFmKQyCP-ngwdUMs2bmg0ZI51HW2BRt71uA9tvdTzS-nKhlTp5lXQG6bvXL-FSQMZYXAOQwFXALoILmgJnTIT3mX55T5J6n5dYD2pI4MYQTXhaYHqTukppyryP/s2048/Overnight+sensations+DIY+speakers+sanding.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1593" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIqRctEVLKynoOQFmb0nhFmKQyCP-ngwdUMs2bmg0ZI51HW2BRt71uA9tvdTzS-nKhlTp5lXQG6bvXL-FSQMZYXAOQwFXALoILmgJnTIT3mX55T5J6n5dYD2pI4MYQTXhaYHqTukppyryP/w498-h640/Overnight+sensations+DIY+speakers+sanding.jpg" width="498" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Sanded down after filler has been added to gaps</b></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">Given I hardly have time for personal projects these days,
getting the finish done quickly is a major boon. I like to use a product called
Duratex from Acry-tech. This is a paint that’s similar to truck bed liner and
covers up any surface imperfections with a texture. It dries quickly (about 3
hours) and provides a durable finish. Two to three coats are all that is needed
and there is no sanding required between coats. Because these speakers will be
in my workroom, there isn’t much point in giving the speakers a museum grade
finish, but the Duratex looks nice and is very serviceable. You can either buy
Duratex from Partsexpress or directly. Custom colors are available direct, like
this nice bright orange. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4m6lln9fNTBkVTq-fdDPmBLij0BOFYhsRFk33UGzzbg2Z1Fpklat-eGqpUV9Okmiej0alkIi2-gSJVO8Rhg4C5D-h3_bZLoAIxndbB4DQTaE-8V6Qa7FhyArZZCORXIzVC5aryGTBIbE/s2048/Overnight+sensations+DIY+speakers+painted.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1451" data-original-width="2048" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4m6lln9fNTBkVTq-fdDPmBLij0BOFYhsRFk33UGzzbg2Z1Fpklat-eGqpUV9Okmiej0alkIi2-gSJVO8Rhg4C5D-h3_bZLoAIxndbB4DQTaE-8V6Qa7FhyArZZCORXIzVC5aryGTBIbE/w640-h454/Overnight+sensations+DIY+speakers+painted.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Speakers with a few layers of orange Duratex coating</b></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p class="MsoNormal">If you’d like to add internal fill, now is the time to do
it. I used two handfuls of fluffed Acoustastuf per speaker. The drivers can now
be soldered in and placed. The HiVi mid-drivers come with foam surrounds that
stick in place, be sure to use these for a good seal. The tweeters will require
a little bit of effort to do right and should be handled carefully. First, if
any paint or stain ended up in the cavity for the tweeter, you may need to
lightly sand to ensure clearance as the fit is very tight. The tweeters do not
include a foam surround so a very thin layer of caulk should be placed between
them and the wood cabinet to create a seal. On the back the binding posts can
be soldered and the plate can be drilled in place.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRPbPbkFPvdLjjQX1QsHv5bqDM_FpwWxLMx9Oarv1GlQvGiuzgv57HEXiXSOJdjPHyUWipr8RbEzBQlHZrClD1ahzNBiqsGUtoqhXVBbMduqaBqhskKRgyy5O-mflTYF-N1lWiq9zlAZXV/s2048/Overnight+sensations+DIY+speakers+solder+drivers.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRPbPbkFPvdLjjQX1QsHv5bqDM_FpwWxLMx9Oarv1GlQvGiuzgv57HEXiXSOJdjPHyUWipr8RbEzBQlHZrClD1ahzNBiqsGUtoqhXVBbMduqaBqhskKRgyy5O-mflTYF-N1lWiq9zlAZXV/w480-h640/Overnight+sensations+DIY+speakers+solder+drivers.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Drivers soldered in place</b></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Finally, we can plug them in and have a listen. Most
speakers have a little bit of burn-in time where the drivers settle in. This is
highly dependent on the driver. I found the Overnight Sensations didn’t need
much time at all to sound great. The sound is fun and large, full, and on the
warm side, but there is a good amount of detail. Given the cost, these are
insanely good. Despite a sensitivity rating of 83/dB, they are sensitive enough
to get quite loud with my Dynaco ST-35 running in either 17.5 watts per channel
push-pull or ~9 watts triode mode in a smallish room. <o:p></o:p><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">At the end of the day, there are plenty of great sounding
speaker kits out there, and many will sound better than the Overnight
Sensations, however I think the price-to-performance ratio and ease of the
build makes them a tremendous introduction to first time speaker builders who
are looking to get their feet wet in the space. If you’re looking to add some
handmade speaker cables, try out some<a href="http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2011/02/using-silver-plated-copper-for-speaker.html" target="_blank"> silver-plated PTFE surplus wire</a>, it’s a
nice value. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">As always, thanks very much for checking out the blog. If
you are looking for custom audio cables, headphone cables, and line or
headphone switchers, please check out <a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/">Zynsonix.com</a>. Until next time! <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></p>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-35517732371477720522021-03-30T14:21:00.003-04:002022-03-25T16:29:25.633-04:00Headphone Switchbox in a Compact Chassis<p>A few years ago I made a <a href="http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2018/05/diy-headphone-switchbox.html"><b>headphone switchbox</b></a>. It was popular enough that I added it for sale on <a href="https://www.zynsonix.com/Headphone-Switchbox_p_68.html"><b>Zynsonix</b></a>. It uses a standard Hammond chassis which is made in Canada. There have been people looking for a more compact version. Unfortunately Hammond doesn't make a super compact extruded chassis from this line, however a fellow over at <a href="https://www.head-fi.org">HeadFi</a>, <a href="https://www.head-fi.org/threads/diy-a-b-switch-gadget-for-quick-headphone-or-source-a-b-ing.939152/">ScornDefeat</a>, was able to find a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/B5-080BK-Anodized-Extruded-Electronic-Enclosure/dp/B07MZP9Q8X">smaller chassis</a> that fits everything (just barely). I believe it's the same chassis as the <a href="https://jdslabs.com/product/objective2/" target="_blank">Objective 2 headphone amp</a>. The size is 3.15" x 5.25" x 1.37" / 80 x 134 x 35mm (LWH) and it comes in anodized black, silver, or blue. </p> <p>Rather than Electroswitch in the previous build, the similar 3 pole Lorin CK-1460 is used, and rather than the flashier Neutrik NMJ6HC-S with silver hexagon design, the plain black NMJ3HF-S is used. These are all about the same size so should be interchangeable. </p><p>The knob is a 1/4" Kilo machined aluminum knob. I prefer the selector on the right as it's a little more natural to use the right hand to switch outputs. </p><p>One oddity to note is the chassis that came from Amazon had tapered head silver screws and the chassis screw holes needed to be threaded (Hammond chassis comes pre-threaded). </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiunLozhJRogfjSyQC3Pos4LXwnG2kCUpa5QLDSxQSyX3addwhKb3R8medcX1TxIaIqb4NcbiP0pylgimrgv1GnDqcyBv8Zpq94HYhxOFAKUSp6z09_AyoUYieuZ2uMKWtKcEFEmXDbs5z/s2048/4x1+Headphone+Switcher+Compact+Inside.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1113" data-original-width="2048" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiunLozhJRogfjSyQC3Pos4LXwnG2kCUpa5QLDSxQSyX3addwhKb3R8medcX1TxIaIqb4NcbiP0pylgimrgv1GnDqcyBv8Zpq94HYhxOFAKUSp6z09_AyoUYieuZ2uMKWtKcEFEmXDbs5z/w640-h348/4x1+Headphone+Switcher+Compact+Inside.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE7RX0vf0SZSwZx3NHFdr9nfT0rMK8m1lsB50JPawhzFlSDHPJql9JZ78gdKemXN7FUp4Po7DOeinUtzloNcY9RKbLKt4vQsGClnSBdhydIHe_Zg0tRmp5-xuBAqAfTvQ2SogluG9bLyIz/s2048/4x1+Headphone+Switcher+Compact.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1434" data-original-width="2048" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE7RX0vf0SZSwZx3NHFdr9nfT0rMK8m1lsB50JPawhzFlSDHPJql9JZ78gdKemXN7FUp4Po7DOeinUtzloNcY9RKbLKt4vQsGClnSBdhydIHe_Zg0tRmp5-xuBAqAfTvQ2SogluG9bLyIz/w640-h448/4x1+Headphone+Switcher+Compact.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>If you'd like to build one of these yourself, it shouldn't take longer than 2-3 hours. I recommend solid core 24 AWG wiring for headphone signal wiring inside of a chassis. </p><p>If you'd like one of these built for you for your headphone switching needs, reach out to <a href="https://www.zynsonix.com"><b>Zynsonix</b></a>. </p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></p><p><br /></p>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-15306109462619224802021-03-30T13:37:00.011-04:002022-04-15T15:57:18.999-04:00Zynsonix Headphone Cable Video Reviews from AB's Sound Advice<p>Here are a few video reviews of Zynsonix headphone cables from <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYa3tS8G6z35okCnPER2iYg" target="_blank"><b>AB's Sound Advice</b></a> AZ/AU. You get to enjoy a brief review and Ashley's nice New Zealand accent all at once. These videos are also a great way to check out the different sleeving options to see which you prefer. </p><p><br /></p><p><b>Ballista custom headphone cable for Denon headphones featuring denim remix sleeving and balanced 4 pin XLR</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KXEcLimrYaM" width="320" youtube-src-id="KXEcLimrYaM"></iframe></div><br /><p><b>Ballista custom headphone cable for Sony MDR-Z7 headphones featuring soft black nylon sleeving and balanced </b><b>4 pin XLR</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JMoIVxYT8MA" width="320" youtube-src-id="JMoIVxYT8MA"></iframe></div><br /><p><b>Ballista custom headphone cable for Klipsch HP-3 headphones featuring Viablue sleeving and balanced </b><b>4 pin XLR</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ue7MVhcHByg" width="320" youtube-src-id="ue7MVhcHByg"></iframe></div><p><br /></p><p>Be sure to check out <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYa3tS8G6z35okCnPER2iYg" target="_blank"><b>AB's Sound Advice Channel</b></a> for more great reviews on audio gear. </p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></p>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-71624275661766579952021-03-30T13:32:00.001-04:002021-03-30T13:32:49.340-04:00NEOGEO Arcade Stick Pro Seimitsu Joystick and Button Replacement ModIf you're like me and previously purchased the SNK NEOGEO Mini back in 2018, you might have seen the Arcade Stick Pro and figured it is just another similar device. To some extent, you'd be right... this is an emulation system that houses a handful of popular SNK games that you can play on a modern HDMI TV. On the other hand, I'd argue that the ASP is a much better product for the typical fan who wants to play the device rather than collect it, so long as you have space to store the larger form factor. <div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW1RZNyYmcOVRIcfSk9bb9EAmLyXywUOhkdXzXMI3ZE4nu6IrNlLL_DfsOxLItOUM33qjzPyw-JdRaADsFD0-8NwEcbwcYG_WsQrBWW2yEBgkQiEvlhMG160c3MEzG89d3TAOfm41IJOe4/s3732/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2136" data-original-width="3732" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW1RZNyYmcOVRIcfSk9bb9EAmLyXywUOhkdXzXMI3ZE4nu6IrNlLL_DfsOxLItOUM33qjzPyw-JdRaADsFD0-8NwEcbwcYG_WsQrBWW2yEBgkQiEvlhMG160c3MEzG89d3TAOfm41IJOe4/w500-h286/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div><br /><div><br /></div><div>One, you'll notice right off the bat that the HDMI output is far better looking than the NEOGEO Mini with crisper edges vs. the slightly blurry NEOGEO Mini. The second is rather than having a novelty mini arcade unit, you get a very solid joystick instead with nice clicky movement, responsive buttons and some weight to it.</div><div><br /></div><div>Opening the unit up, you can see that SNK did not take shortcuts when they designed the unit. There's a metal plate on the bottom to provide that much appreciated extra weight, a clean layout and plenty of reinforcing pillars that make the stick very solid and sturdy. As a bonus, SNK set up the interior so you could easily switch out the buttons and joystick for aftermarket options should you wish. </div><div><br /></div><div>Personally I'm not the type that can tell much difference between a Sanwa stick vs. a Seimitsu stick or any other arcade brand out there. I don't play competitively so any enhancement to my guiding a character around the screen would be minimal at best. That being said, I love to mod things and this seemed like a fun little project to kill a couple hours and would hopefully make an informative post. </div><div><br /></div><div>The first (and actually most time consuming) part of the mod is to remove all the little plastic bits and screws from the bottom of the unit. I'd advise you put them all in a zip-lock bag so you don't lose any.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO06S1kaKfLxD-J6EcZira73vWk6riTWN_EttM1vs3EbvXCReCKysMpZVaDfaSXhCIBEOsgW5GhLRziNDHjHqjxz4KdGGzEW3AfgWYHlrl2ZFzhyG5nHxW9x-ssdr78rbDEse-B9ssXULb/s3216/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller+Mod+Bottom.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1842" data-original-width="3216" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO06S1kaKfLxD-J6EcZira73vWk6riTWN_EttM1vs3EbvXCReCKysMpZVaDfaSXhCIBEOsgW5GhLRziNDHjHqjxz4KdGGzEW3AfgWYHlrl2ZFzhyG5nHxW9x-ssdr78rbDEse-B9ssXULb/w500-h286/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller+Mod+Bottom.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Once you have all ten screws removed, you can separate the top from the bottom. Below you will see the stock unit with the included joystick with square gate. Highlighted in red are screw holes that SNK included purposefully so you can install an aftermarket joystick. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1_VnLjsHdo5IuVkqbuHT79V-UHB4zwhSPnq85G5RcdsHvk4j_ks_tgNHNQqaMJLKpj4-aAO259MJy-WF_Gpzt5uCSCPa4dbJt9uG_VtphDUnnPWDrPTadtIR3__lcRnkk558Ff3zeqwCd/s3760/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller+Mod+Inside+Stock.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1968" data-original-width="3760" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1_VnLjsHdo5IuVkqbuHT79V-UHB4zwhSPnq85G5RcdsHvk4j_ks_tgNHNQqaMJLKpj4-aAO259MJy-WF_Gpzt5uCSCPa4dbJt9uG_VtphDUnnPWDrPTadtIR3__lcRnkk558Ff3zeqwCd/w625-h326/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller+Mod+Inside+Stock.jpg" width="625" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Removing the buttons is very simple and straightforward. You put a little bit of pressure on the center of the metal tab connecting the wire to the button. This dislodges a small metal protrusion that holds the tab in place via the little gap on the button contact. You can then remove the metal tab and wire from the button. Do not force these off or it will damage the metal tabs and you will have to bend them back in place or replace them. With the wires out of the way, you can use a channel lock wrench to press against the two sides of each button at the same time to clear it through the opening.</div><div><br /></div><div>Replacing the buttons is even simpler, just pop them in place and replace the connections to the corresponding buttons. If you forgot what color goes where, simply use the image above as a reference. I personally used the Seimitsu PS-14-K buttons from the bounceback series just because I liked the concept that the buttons bounce back quickly if you were playing something like King of the Monsters and needed to win a grapple or something. You'll notice in the image below all the buttons are lined up identically in orientation, this is just for neatness and not required. </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYi-Uy54Q_PsnDXSlrKMvJqgqk1V_ZNgT7Z37C1le9Zo6d4IRANlosSBbiM-zelO6_RdqqKrGovmBFKrcWFdo8q8Jxhyphenhyphen8_jLGCnsAk1FEl0FGuba3xhsSIMJd0xnf-ohvefDksPLZYaxN7/s6000/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller+Mod+Inside+Buttons.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYi-Uy54Q_PsnDXSlrKMvJqgqk1V_ZNgT7Z37C1le9Zo6d4IRANlosSBbiM-zelO6_RdqqKrGovmBFKrcWFdo8q8Jxhyphenhyphen8_jLGCnsAk1FEl0FGuba3xhsSIMJd0xnf-ohvefDksPLZYaxN7/w500-h333/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller+Mod+Inside+Buttons.jpg" width="500" /></a></div> </div><div><br /></div><div>The joystick requires a little more effort, mostly because you probably won't be able to find a current replacement joystick with the quick-disconnect tabs. For the joystick to mount within the Arcade Pro Stick, you'll need the MS style mounting plate. This will run $3-4 depending on where you get it. The joystick I chose is the Seimitsu LS-58-01-CR-SS, which is the LS-58 (a popular mid-ground stick) with red hardware and a 5 pin wiring harness socket. If you are having trouble finding the stick you want, you can replace the spring to a different weight without much issue. Also with the Seimitsu units, you can change the gate on the back. I chose a circular gate (called an Octoplate) rather than the square one it came with. Better for dragon punches I assume...? </div><div><br /></div><div>Before you remove the joystick, set your multimeter to continuity and set the probes on each of the four pairs of metal tabs where the quick disconnects are. Move the joystick to see what orientation shorts each and makes a beep, write these down so that way you'll know what to solder where. </div><div><br /></div><div>To remove the stock joystick, you'll simply need to remove the 5 screws circled below:</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj59Td_ZhBu0fCZ7LQRhc64S2na76Lgw2l5uhTtWCZYwwsNwXjGHsJfcf4Sp_8_tc67I039yApxehTAB28DQ16e4emNCBVGdPJF8riR2E5pdSBbjVSCed9RZ5wKmZgKBR3EYZeyYUj9FyL-/s3024/SNK+Prostick+stock+joystick.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2568" data-original-width="3024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj59Td_ZhBu0fCZ7LQRhc64S2na76Lgw2l5uhTtWCZYwwsNwXjGHsJfcf4Sp_8_tc67I039yApxehTAB28DQ16e4emNCBVGdPJF8riR2E5pdSBbjVSCed9RZ5wKmZgKBR3EYZeyYUj9FyL-/s320/SNK+Prostick+stock+joystick.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The new joystick is going to be agnostic to its orientation so long as you solder the wiring the same way you noted above. Rather than the pair of disconnects, you have two big solder joints on each corner of the PCB. You can test these with your multimeter with the wiring harness in to see which color is which direction. The return is common (all the pairs share the return connection). </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQbKqQVGs6X-a99B71mQElHtGwVSdf9nFjsESZq05x_V0_WVZzyZL8bKzKNojiCUC8t03rjO5OBA6nhYIbqku0uqX0DTEJIlkvUlTpksneDV-m63n6hGleNnQcBFKLI212U8DAMLxaWujs/s3496/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller+Mod+solder+wire+harness.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2176" data-original-width="3496" height="389" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQbKqQVGs6X-a99B71mQElHtGwVSdf9nFjsESZq05x_V0_WVZzyZL8bKzKNojiCUC8t03rjO5OBA6nhYIbqku0uqX0DTEJIlkvUlTpksneDV-m63n6hGleNnQcBFKLI212U8DAMLxaWujs/w625-h389/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller+Mod+solder+wire+harness.jpg" width="625" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Each wire can be soldered now, you can use the color guide in this picture if your 5 pin harness is facing the buttons. One drawback is that the bottom of the joystick has a plastic tube that interferes with this placement, so you'll need to trim it off with a cutting wheel or your tool of choice. Each wire should be covered with some adhesive heatshrink tubing and then the bundle zip-tied together. </div><div><br /></div><div>Note there are four black adhesive circles in the corners of the image below. They like to fall off while you are working, so make sure to put them back before reassembly. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6uw56AnpCcTET6poSyVPuIKLd17XKyJDp0lx7N_dwhqAH6stlCdxl3GBhL20bvd4DxIWYZflS_XwFUnNBnIz3xvtZkCR3qsLvbGlZfyFuzgGh2CIlaN2a1e3olGsb-6kjeIozf3Ku83aM/s3568/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller+Mod+Inside+Final.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2616" data-original-width="3568" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6uw56AnpCcTET6poSyVPuIKLd17XKyJDp0lx7N_dwhqAH6stlCdxl3GBhL20bvd4DxIWYZflS_XwFUnNBnIz3xvtZkCR3qsLvbGlZfyFuzgGh2CIlaN2a1e3olGsb-6kjeIozf3Ku83aM/w625-h460/SNK+Prostick+Pro+Stick+Controller+Mod+Inside+Final.jpg" width="625" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div> </div></div><div>Once complete, you can screw the unit back together and replace the little plastic screw-hiders. Final photos coming soon. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-13083927876851371482020-09-09T15:56:00.004-04:002020-09-09T16:08:26.474-04:00Pioneer SE-700 Vintage Headphone Cable Mod and Balancing<p>The Pioneer SE-700 were the company’s flagship headphones
released back in 1974. The driver is an unusual piezo-electric type. I am personally not aware of any other headphone
manufacturer that offered this type of driver, but feel free to share in the
comments if you know of one. The SE-700, SE-500 and SE-300 all use a similar
element. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBmSVXmdaPRG2jCxU3qabO87agfGSnbT3qeOyIBVCeiVjoDWKbVTxB0cFbMFoG4orVntZbyA-vkzJvVE7xtJFDoCld7mp8KDs_CkRaEP6c5WKr-Njc9l28y-Qb9rU0DaNHuEuBRZG8jFqJ/s1024/Pioneer_SE700+Specs.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Pioneer SE--700 old advertisement" border="0" data-original-height="633" data-original-width="1024" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBmSVXmdaPRG2jCxU3qabO87agfGSnbT3qeOyIBVCeiVjoDWKbVTxB0cFbMFoG4orVntZbyA-vkzJvVE7xtJFDoCld7mp8KDs_CkRaEP6c5WKr-Njc9l28y-Qb9rU0DaNHuEuBRZG8jFqJ/w400-h248/Pioneer_SE700+Specs.jpg" title="Pioneer SE--700 old advertisement" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />An old advert for the SE-700 touting their specs</span></b><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br />I’d describe the sound as airy, crisp, and similar to an electrostat
with a detail emphasis. Bass quantity is very low, which I believe is typical
of this type of driver. The simple metal frame and gimbals look rather elegant,
and the overall unit is pretty light. The way it rests on the head is slightly
odd compared to modern headphones, but it’s still very usable.</p><p>The piezo-electric driver is a very thin piece of metal foil with a frame going around the perimeter, with the positive and negative connections at the bottom. It is covered with bright yellow foam resembling a dish sponge. It is also quite delicate, so even opening the headphone can damage the driver. The unit is sealed shut with rubber cement or a similar adhesive so it must be opened very slowly and carefully to access the inside. </p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgEYan2-zNMRqdYApN26u7dPwO_yP5LV8fj8HTQBNaKX4bPU9zvgM8aJG12fJ3eatZO1uwPdv2d3jd8avxG9aYSslC8gtoH1UrY3ciApVyyMzVpW7a5p4-XQBKVc09ltT_cpEFIN0UkRs/s600/Pioneer+vintage+SE-700+headphones.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Pioneer SE--700 old manual" border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="557" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgEYan2-zNMRqdYApN26u7dPwO_yP5LV8fj8HTQBNaKX4bPU9zvgM8aJG12fJ3eatZO1uwPdv2d3jd8avxG9aYSslC8gtoH1UrY3ciApVyyMzVpW7a5p4-XQBKVc09ltT_cpEFIN0UkRs/w371-h400/Pioneer+vintage+SE-700+headphones.jpg" title="Pioneer SE--700 old manual" width="371" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">An image from the user's manual circa 1974</span></b><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><div>The wire connections for the driver are circled in red below:</div><div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiypqoX-VJ2JNBbypkWIJ73Dv2F-9i6zqtCGTfwq53blL_DcbJTt-YJC1A5CL2fv5jF6RotsmPlYD08Z4C2SEbTZz504EMLl8mMfqbJvLg_VDUaEEAKkhISzCi5UYFJBULQ2OtTxizlH2Cl/s2048/Pioneer+SE700+headphone+mod+new+cable.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pioneer SE--700 inside earcup" border="0" data-original-height="1552" data-original-width="2048" height="379" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiypqoX-VJ2JNBbypkWIJ73Dv2F-9i6zqtCGTfwq53blL_DcbJTt-YJC1A5CL2fv5jF6RotsmPlYD08Z4C2SEbTZz504EMLl8mMfqbJvLg_VDUaEEAKkhISzCi5UYFJBULQ2OtTxizlH2Cl/w500-h379/Pioneer+SE700+headphone+mod+new+cable.jpg" title="Pioneer SE--700 inside earcup" width="500" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">If you’re looking to purchase one of these you can keep an
eye out on Reverb, eBay or similar platforms. Price for a good example will
generally be between $80 and $150. You’ll probably want to replace the wiring
including the 3-meter cloth-covered cable, and the vinyl headband and ear pads
which will likely be flaking. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">My client Steve who sent me the headphones had already
replaced the pads and requested the inner wiring be replaced. The existing wiring contacts had been
twisted together and covered with heatshrink (see above image), which seemed like an odd
manufacturing choice and not an ideal connection. Running single strands from
the connection would sound better. You’ll note both sides of the headphone
below after the cabling was replaced. <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdafVckzYFaR5rsRANtdUX0yMuBO0Arm1iDH2AGDbrtCoH7ukYIdqJTKqfVaV-PxcZpKs31fmnTNxsseUeQYblnxGKqd13zFDLax-RSCJKQya7cq7Sp3Q094YQyge_pt9UpYJKfseFo55V/s2048/Pioneer+SE700+headphone+mod+new+cable+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pioneer SE--700 inside earcup cable mod" border="0" data-original-height="1798" data-original-width="2048" height="351" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdafVckzYFaR5rsRANtdUX0yMuBO0Arm1iDH2AGDbrtCoH7ukYIdqJTKqfVaV-PxcZpKs31fmnTNxsseUeQYblnxGKqd13zFDLax-RSCJKQya7cq7Sp3Q094YQyge_pt9UpYJKfseFo55V/w400-h351/Pioneer+SE700+headphone+mod+new+cable+2.jpg" title="Pioneer SE--700 inside earcup cable mod" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4egNEbloiwbNk3isN3VQKg09xibj5uqmwxZ9ZzWjx3GKdGbwQTRlk29efNK_t52P39zFJUW9_9u1br-NWMt1HB7nnHDPwTdaqMxhc-H813A9xqywqPhPBTXY_pDPHTlOUDnDZ-jf7x0Oy/s2048/Pioneer+SE700+headphone+mod+new+cable+3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pioneer SE--700 inside earcup cable mod" border="0" data-original-height="1918" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4egNEbloiwbNk3isN3VQKg09xibj5uqmwxZ9ZzWjx3GKdGbwQTRlk29efNK_t52P39zFJUW9_9u1br-NWMt1HB7nnHDPwTdaqMxhc-H813A9xqywqPhPBTXY_pDPHTlOUDnDZ-jf7x0Oy/w400-h375/Pioneer+SE700+headphone+mod+new+cable+3.jpg" title="Pioneer SE--700 inside earcup cable mod" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The headphone was reassembled using 3M double-sided tape so it can be more easily opened if needed. Steve will be crafting a calfskin headband for the unit as a
replacement for the original vinyl headband, which I feel is the only visual let-down. It appears EricJ from HeadFi created an excellent tutorial back in 2007 on creating a replacement headband which you can find <a href="https://www.head-fi.org/threads/this-old-headphone-reconstructing-the-pioneer-se-700-56k-slow.234371/" target="_blank">here</a>. Below you'll see the refurbished/modded unit. </p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmh-LOKZl9KoZxW80vlNhvpQQhFvEQsCbL7bQD927vNpyoxlnWTCh_NYg0DbDZk50WXXaabHYvEewtPPugS4q9JTh16lPInR6jSb8iWO2uYhoIHRidWsqcoNx6vMN7z3F2Nb7ViipTnDH3/s2048/Pioneer+Vintage+Headphone+Mod+Cable+Balanced.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1474" data-original-width="2048" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmh-LOKZl9KoZxW80vlNhvpQQhFvEQsCbL7bQD927vNpyoxlnWTCh_NYg0DbDZk50WXXaabHYvEewtPPugS4q9JTh16lPInR6jSb8iWO2uYhoIHRidWsqcoNx6vMN7z3F2Nb7ViipTnDH3/w625-h450/Pioneer+Vintage+Headphone+Mod+Cable+Balanced.jpg" width="625" /></a></div><br /><p class="MsoNormal">I hope you enjoyed this post on one of the more interesting vintage headphones out there. If you have a headphone that needs a cable upgrade please be sure to visit <a href="http://Zynsonix.com">Zynsonix.com</a>. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><b><br /></b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Disclosure: </b></span><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Please remember that using a soldering iron and/or modifying headphones can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. </span></div></div>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-80898439363978462042020-08-20T16:20:00.011-04:002022-04-15T15:58:34.726-04:00Avantone MP1 Mixphones Balanced Headphone Cable Mod<div style="text-align: left;">Not a headphone commonly discussed on HeadFi, but certainly deserving of some merit, is the Avantone MP1 Mixphones. They are touted as “suitable for use in live sound, DJ, studio recording, mixing playback and listening applications“. The earpads and cups are quite large, isolating, and comfortable, and house sizable 50mm drivers inside. A client of mine, Steve, with a penchant for unusual looking electronics sent me one to work some magic on to see how we could improve it.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip1q9IW467vfAqPD8K9Sm7r8ePRnrv_t_vCKR_tNQoBpNsQiZ8VZx3FqSMs4tP_0PvuvDI9y7TioQqAFvojlTCloA8m2W7b_PQB4FvT9kAJrqMcDhL6qBDGQv4HJcr5xoeij-MEkxcWdcc/s750/MixPhonesBk-large.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="600" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip1q9IW467vfAqPD8K9Sm7r8ePRnrv_t_vCKR_tNQoBpNsQiZ8VZx3FqSMs4tP_0PvuvDI9y7TioQqAFvojlTCloA8m2W7b_PQB4FvT9kAJrqMcDhL6qBDGQv4HJcr5xoeij-MEkxcWdcc/w210-h262/MixPhonesBk-large.jpg" width="210" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>The headphone comes with a 3.5mm input on one side and a little switch on the other side with a rudimentary circuit for adjusting the sound to your liking. Steve had tried the unit with an aftermarket Zynsonix cable first, but wanted to run it balanced, and the only way to do so was to remove this little device, which I assumed would help with the clarity anyway.<br /><br />The circuit, switch and the 3.5mm inlet would all be removed in favor of mini XLR connectors on each cup. Brainwaves XL Hybrid earpads would also replace the stock pads, which Steve mentioned were comfortable but tended to flatten out over time. I indeed read the same thing from other reviewers online so it appears to be a common issue. <br /><br />The sound had nice body and warmth, but wasn’t super clear, and the resolution on the lower end of the spectrum was somewhat lacking. I knew some mass-loading damping material would help with this and tighten up the bottom end a bit. On the inside, there are more metal parts than you typically find inside a headphone as metal, while adding mass which can be a good thing, tends to weigh things down. Fortunately the headphone remains comfortable. Avantone lists the weight at 550 grams, however it didn’t feel that heavy on my head. I recall Audeze’s EL-8 titanium as the only headphone I found was heavy enough to be uncomfortable, although some have said the same thing about the new HEDD Audio HEDDPhones as well. Good weight distribution goes a long way in assisting with this.<br /><br />I placed some damping material on the driver surround and the inside of the cup strategically. You don’t need too much to get the desired result. Once everything was put back together with the new balanced cable, circuit delete, damping material, and pads, the sound was notably more resolving and controlled in the lower-end especially. Note the damping placement below: <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyi8EeZszk7vr5JTyg7EJyHwaFWxoV6XyfuAFwn1LFmusL4bZeBdwuO-qSvVquC7dqvd19DEPXFVbzg2_QUi9fm0VsRYn7Ht9NCYxG7W6DnQQvS2l9pqgw7HKvX1x7D0wcTvusKRUmR9pS/s2048/Avantone+Headphone+mod+balanced+cable+headfi.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Damping material placement" border="0" data-original-height="1184" data-original-width="2048" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyi8EeZszk7vr5JTyg7EJyHwaFWxoV6XyfuAFwn1LFmusL4bZeBdwuO-qSvVquC7dqvd19DEPXFVbzg2_QUi9fm0VsRYn7Ht9NCYxG7W6DnQQvS2l9pqgw7HKvX1x7D0wcTvusKRUmR9pS/w640-h370/Avantone+Headphone+mod+balanced+cable+headfi.jpg" title="Damping material placement" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><b>Steve’s impressions:</b><br /><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px;"><i>Now, to the unmodified and your modification versions of the Avantone Pro MP1 headphones. Both have Brainwavz XL Round Hybrid earpads. The unbalanced version has a Trebuchet cable. The balanced version has a Ballista cable. They are both driven, not at the same time, from the headphone outputs on the front panel of the Soekris dac1541. Source is a Nuprime CDT-10, output set to 192kHz sample rate, AES/EBU connected to the DAC. Good results began after 15 hours of operation; my observations here are at the 25-hour mark.<br /> <br />As much as I liked the unbalanced version, the balanced version has more of the good stuff: crispness, bass extension, expansiveness, body, blacker background. Surprisingly, this results in a less dry and less analytical presentation than the unbalanced version. This balanced version is easier to listen to for longer sessions. I did try line level balanced output from the Soekris into an XDuoo TA-20 amplifier. [FYI, for this amplifier, balanced in and out is noise free. Any unbalanced, in and/or out, is too noisy for me.] This was not as good a combination. The Avantone headphones, probably because of their very low impedance [16 ohms] and very high sensitivity [113 dB] need the stability and the low noise of solid-state amplification. All in all, a worthwhile and satisfying result.</i></blockquote><p> </p>You can see some images below of the unit. Steve took some of the latter. I took far more images during the process however my Canon T7i decided it was time for a summer vacation and didn’t save the images to the memory card.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPxfYXWrdY5N8Xs3qyiRJDJPW3qFgR9moI0Ww3x6ZOrcXSp_0P5h1j_9s1wueKduktX-MoV8YRXNm_dkCsIMqx1R0_nOcnQ1B9cip3OxsldAgMDivCVpTUJgt75tx3YqK5WwnwLOUsJw4z/s2048/Avantone+Headphone+mod+balanced+cable+headfi+3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Avantone MP1 Mixphones Balanced Headphone Cable Mod" border="0" data-original-height="1310" data-original-width="2048" height="409" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPxfYXWrdY5N8Xs3qyiRJDJPW3qFgR9moI0Ww3x6ZOrcXSp_0P5h1j_9s1wueKduktX-MoV8YRXNm_dkCsIMqx1R0_nOcnQ1B9cip3OxsldAgMDivCVpTUJgt75tx3YqK5WwnwLOUsJw4z/w640-h409/Avantone+Headphone+mod+balanced+cable+headfi+3.jpg" title="Avantone MP1 Mixphones Balanced Headphone Cable Mod" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc480ygkP4KUDs_8fbMBExjc65X34_7INsekvsqaMt4ttnhyphenhyphenokHuy22v_f2tW9TYV2UCqObfqJ4njBHyueSN6YzuvPQcj18mXF5jwjEb7CYsgbox4clCt59mU0nK26fZOmvyzoOEytHij7/s2048/Avantone+Headphone+mod+balanced+cable+headfi+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Avantone MP1 Mixphones Balanced Headphone Cable Mod" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1824" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc480ygkP4KUDs_8fbMBExjc65X34_7INsekvsqaMt4ttnhyphenhyphenokHuy22v_f2tW9TYV2UCqObfqJ4njBHyueSN6YzuvPQcj18mXF5jwjEb7CYsgbox4clCt59mU0nK26fZOmvyzoOEytHij7/w570-h640/Avantone+Headphone+mod+balanced+cable+headfi+2.jpg" title="Avantone MP1 Mixphones Balanced Headphone Cable Mod" width="570" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Anyway, hope you enjoyed this write up, and if you’d like an aftermarket cable or complete recable of the Avantones or other headphones please contact <a href="https://www.zynsonix.com" target="_blank">Zynsonix Audio</a>. Thanks very much to Steve for generously sharing his thoughts and time as well!<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Disclosure: </b>Please remember that using a soldering iron and/or modifying headphones can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. </span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-75162571087199339882020-07-28T17:35:00.002-04:002022-03-25T16:30:34.619-04:00Removable Balanced Cable Mod for Beyerdynamic DT-1770 HeadphonesI'm personally digging the newer, more upscale DT-1770 and DT-1990 from Beyerdynamic. The sound is more balanced and not quite as peaky in the upper midrange. The DT770, 880 and 990 are still incredible values though, and I'd recommend them to anyone looking to get into headphones. <div><br /></div><div>There's one glaring omission that Beyer could have done better with 1770 and 1990, and that's not using a 4-pin XLR with isolated grounds so the headphones could be run with balanced amps. For a headphone costing nearly $600 and given how little it would cost to implement is a strange business decision. <a href="https://drop.com">Drop</a> has actually released a version of the 1770 called the DT-177X which uses a 4 pin XLR, so I encourage anyone considering the DT-1770 to get that instead. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiKi69KO7L-yVYgqOasdgOCM9Ebu6OGgLR7B9kjbYfaNAkydqqaicxryyWRMrykqozSnT7onOkdIsuGui3TgMDZUoVYT8kDUtxazcJSAO2rkbSU-zV7f4uDQs_BrEyEieZbbitD3eakuUp/s1976/DT1770+mod+recable+3+pin+mini+XLR+2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="3 pin XLR" border="0" data-original-height="1808" data-original-width="1976" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiKi69KO7L-yVYgqOasdgOCM9Ebu6OGgLR7B9kjbYfaNAkydqqaicxryyWRMrykqozSnT7onOkdIsuGui3TgMDZUoVYT8kDUtxazcJSAO2rkbSU-zV7f4uDQs_BrEyEieZbbitD3eakuUp/w320-h293/DT1770+mod+recable+3+pin+mini+XLR+2.jpg" title="3 Pin XLR" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3-pin XLR? That's no good!</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Fortunately for Beyer fans, the existing units can be modified for balanced amplifiers. This involves removing the 3-pin XLR and much of the existing wiring and isn't very difficult. </div><div><br /></div><div>Below you'll see the offending 3-pin XLR which needs to be replaced. To open up the headphones, first the earpads are removed, then pry off the retaining ring using an envelope opener or similar tool. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAWfIeA2-8XGwuTeoOIMZQNBxoCL7Fup2UTcwzdVatHIaSvumLfKR_NwpE6kxVhe3LJ7f6Sr5UUljlJCJsyr6sg6M62QD6OEu722HCuwAJeIbglhs7FiTL9_CftgIQTaukKYB5JOqA3w_a/s2048/DT1770+mod+recable+3+pin+mini+XLR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 2" border="0" data-original-height="1588" data-original-width="2048" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAWfIeA2-8XGwuTeoOIMZQNBxoCL7Fup2UTcwzdVatHIaSvumLfKR_NwpE6kxVhe3LJ7f6Sr5UUljlJCJsyr6sg6M62QD6OEu722HCuwAJeIbglhs7FiTL9_CftgIQTaukKYB5JOqA3w_a/w500-h388/DT1770+mod+recable+3+pin+mini+XLR.jpg" title="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 2" width="500" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Under the retaining ring are the drivers. If you look carefully, there is a little indent on the outer edge of each. Using a small flathead screwdriver, you can apply some pressure to pry up the driver frame and remove it from the cups. This should all be done carefully as to not damage the drivers or the fabric on the driver frame. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOKk61RR1bIqb4dQ1jUNKpvPDnxV8AJ66xwq66apkp0S9eKHuMTfNEPCVmyZiPCo-Ub9KOPRfoz7XarkIsn4eDvgxIUq6kJqYJ5sXnnWrkEM6Buc8UqtT8uMgyKylladxjyw9EtN1JfGdn/s2048/DT1770+mod+recable+inside+headphones+driver.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 3" border="0" data-original-height="1721" data-original-width="2048" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOKk61RR1bIqb4dQ1jUNKpvPDnxV8AJ66xwq66apkp0S9eKHuMTfNEPCVmyZiPCo-Ub9KOPRfoz7XarkIsn4eDvgxIUq6kJqYJ5sXnnWrkEM6Buc8UqtT8uMgyKylladxjyw9EtN1JfGdn/w500-h420/DT1770+mod+recable+inside+headphones+driver.jpg" title="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 3" width="500" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The drivers will often have a number on them. This is likely for matching purposes at the factory. In addition they will have a red dot near one of the wires. This tells you which side is positive. The wires can be trimmed and the drivers removed. Next the headband has to come off to replace the wire between the cups. There are a couple of screws to remove on the plastic brackets and you can then open up the headband and remove the wire. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgThe4Pmqb-cFeNFsTFOBcvVZdqUd1dpjUd73nDxvc9uuDsSQSduS33XaSV5pEYZd9EN_rZDuHdjZTLY88HfnuAo55UFWUzln9HLi_eayvjzUXJSO8J3u2FCBP8-bYDCOAPR3-pPqYIbJuF/s2048/DT1770+mod+recable+inside+headphones+headband+assembly.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 4" border="0" data-original-height="1518" data-original-width="2048" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgThe4Pmqb-cFeNFsTFOBcvVZdqUd1dpjUd73nDxvc9uuDsSQSduS33XaSV5pEYZd9EN_rZDuHdjZTLY88HfnuAo55UFWUzln9HLi_eayvjzUXJSO8J3u2FCBP8-bYDCOAPR3-pPqYIbJuF/w500-h370/DT1770+mod+recable+inside+headphones+headband+assembly.jpg" title="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 4" width="500" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Other items that need to come off are the 3-pin mini XLR and the little strain relief pieces. The mini XLR has a plastic ring that screws it in place. There's a little bit of adhesive but it's not difficult to get off. The strain relieve pieces have a metal retaining piece, remove that and pull them out of the cup. They will need to be cleared out inside with a drill or dremel to provide clearance for thicker wire. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigpxA-Xnm2taxwgOO-qGePm1yYRCye7pxMJYgt6fssL4Vr54ZG7w_qdAx-4-jVNkwNx_u3W7J5b9MegcaOG0ShCJh3LOn0lKyFb0pQBiEKzFCYXYp8r6FokpwTY0mAEGwSs9rwMOgcwp9w/s2048/DT1770+mod+recable+hardware.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 5" border="0" data-original-height="1442" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigpxA-Xnm2taxwgOO-qGePm1yYRCye7pxMJYgt6fssL4Vr54ZG7w_qdAx-4-jVNkwNx_u3W7J5b9MegcaOG0ShCJh3LOn0lKyFb0pQBiEKzFCYXYp8r6FokpwTY0mAEGwSs9rwMOgcwp9w/w320-h225/DT1770+mod+recable+hardware.jpg" title="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 5" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Once everything is out, the replacement wire is soldered to a 4 pin mini XLR (Switchcraft or similar) and is fed through the strain relief pieces (orange circle below) through the headband and out the other side. The plastic pieces holding the headband in place have small indents where the wire enters and exits (red circle below). Inside, a zip tie should be placed right under the strain relief so the wire can't yank on the driver connection if it gets caught, and some light adhesive can be placed, then the metal retaining piece can be reinserted. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMOua-wVoWke69e77EqtFjdt_vr9qilkQadzjX-odeWfHXnMdA24P47YlFJUw29EowTEgBsteU5fEvAZqmkmGUDNdJGAOP0VigY3nGjZJaZXfOdS_vifqqJifFilrl3hP-hc-fPskIsz3/s2048/DT1770+mod+recable+inside+headphones+soldered+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 6" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1998" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMOua-wVoWke69e77EqtFjdt_vr9qilkQadzjX-odeWfHXnMdA24P47YlFJUw29EowTEgBsteU5fEvAZqmkmGUDNdJGAOP0VigY3nGjZJaZXfOdS_vifqqJifFilrl3hP-hc-fPskIsz3/w488-h500/DT1770+mod+recable+inside+headphones+soldered+2.jpg" title="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 6" width="488" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Once everything is in place, you can insert the mini XLR back into the cavity on the bottom of the cup and screw on the stock plastic ring. Use a bit of adhesive or Loctite to ensure this does not come undone. </div><div><br /></div><div>Below you'll see the wire running to one of the headphone drivers. Beyerdynamic is now using small pins and a circuit board for ease of assembly. The pins are too small to solder to directly, so the wire should be soldered close to the board with a little bit of room for flexibility. Adhesive heatshrink should be used to prevent shorting. </div><div><br /></div><div>If you decide to try and remove the pin jacks and solder directly to the PCB, be very careful as you can damage the diaphragm wire which is quite thin. I personally do not recommend this as you'll likely find yourself buying a new set of drivers, but if you'd like to try it, godspeed. </div><div> </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6iBY52fyUJwL2wTpWLnTicnk-oE2yqS917d5C74ZZnWqtyN-LKVXk0Nnrw2fw9vC9ME7eLpgHUsivdsv0JQEnfBcRockeYTOjYnB6q3asrkEkLHyiqHzLbEy9UxvHp842HO4MkF-1VyDx/s2048/DT1770+mod+recable+inside+headphones+soldered.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 7" border="0" data-original-height="1962" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6iBY52fyUJwL2wTpWLnTicnk-oE2yqS917d5C74ZZnWqtyN-LKVXk0Nnrw2fw9vC9ME7eLpgHUsivdsv0JQEnfBcRockeYTOjYnB6q3asrkEkLHyiqHzLbEy9UxvHp842HO4MkF-1VyDx/w400-h384/DT1770+mod+recable+inside+headphones+soldered.jpg" title="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 7" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Once you have everything in place, you can reassemble the headphone. Below you'll see the modded DT1770 Pro (sans earpads, they were retained by the owner) and a spiffy new Zynsonix Ballista cable to go with them. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglCjVjGjSDtQeYbfUFjJxKh-VsWdEZq3hpZZjh00izueRmO-lM3Upcs9YgHmtS87GbMpUTtSqYc6hHnkHEJnBFXREXQxWvXUfwen3vTkekQm_Sxui-x61JS2cOZBVCurqXTGN1L3YeU0BW/s2048/DT1770+mod+recable+3+pin+mini+XLR+outside+done+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 8" border="0" data-original-height="1675" data-original-width="2048" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglCjVjGjSDtQeYbfUFjJxKh-VsWdEZq3hpZZjh00izueRmO-lM3Upcs9YgHmtS87GbMpUTtSqYc6hHnkHEJnBFXREXQxWvXUfwen3vTkekQm_Sxui-x61JS2cOZBVCurqXTGN1L3YeU0BW/w500-h410/DT1770+mod+recable+3+pin+mini+XLR+outside+done+2.jpg" title="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 8" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNucGYRfP8zWNGGuaDiWFcVvt87nzZb6QjEFETV5pG2qBinjBS2KPNvD-Dkvc5Cc5mCaXNB45QSxe3j76aduDCYGdki6hpOpbVfGrKG9OhIUlfzVwZG_LLtgvGMwTrtAvp8-twgOsjGOm/s2048/DT1770+mod+recable+3+pin+mini+XLR+outside+done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 9" border="0" data-original-height="1653" data-original-width="2048" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNucGYRfP8zWNGGuaDiWFcVvt87nzZb6QjEFETV5pG2qBinjBS2KPNvD-Dkvc5Cc5mCaXNB45QSxe3j76aduDCYGdki6hpOpbVfGrKG9OhIUlfzVwZG_LLtgvGMwTrtAvp8-twgOsjGOm/w500-h404/DT1770+mod+recable+3+pin+mini+XLR+outside+done.jpg" title="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 9" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjv-gfQsGlIVwaJ3SIN1y4EdShcc2cnPiMhiOMqyw0AupieOY1sYNQ6-xqpxUjs-WiRu1j_KiZ70bjel885ERbidY_Tzq62CsYJrgqcBzOP_Fy8Y0FZiUdeF93RSwZx99RvrQL7uUySii/s2048/DT1770+mod+recable+balanced+mini+XLR+mod+with+cable.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 10" border="0" data-original-height="1799" data-original-width="2048" height="439" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjv-gfQsGlIVwaJ3SIN1y4EdShcc2cnPiMhiOMqyw0AupieOY1sYNQ6-xqpxUjs-WiRu1j_KiZ70bjel885ERbidY_Tzq62CsYJrgqcBzOP_Fy8Y0FZiUdeF93RSwZx99RvrQL7uUySii/w500-h439/DT1770+mod+recable+balanced+mini+XLR+mod+with+cable.jpg" title="Beyerdynamic DT-1770 balanced cable mod 10" width="500" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>I hope you enjoyed this brief tutorial and hope your mod goes well. If you'd prefer someone else have all the fun, please contact <a href="https://www.zynsonix.com" target="_blank">Zynsonix Audio</a> who would be happy to handle it for you. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><b><br /></b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Disclosure: </b></span><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Please remember that using a soldering iron and/or modifying headphones can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. </span></div>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-72361864139600971372020-06-29T16:52:00.009-04:002020-06-29T16:56:10.100-04:00The Retro Evercade Console is Here!<p class="MsoNormal">I've been waiting for the Evercade for quite a while and
it's FINALLY here! </p><p class="MsoNormal">It's pretty darn close to what I expected. The Evercade is a value-oriented product, so there are a
number of compromises necessary to hit that low-cost sweet-spot. What really matters though is
if it scratches that nostalgic itch and does a decent job of presenting the games,
especially to those who may have never played them before. Get a low-down below of where Evercade really hits the mark and where it falls a little short:</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqdcWfD2bDqfOqtyayLUnXR87JLCxPzGki_hHMwYrIjf8pZLv9Gp3bDUAHwPSknPN7ewNQQu8UJ-2ZwmYkrFgQPtODijntin0C2k0Butz9vug3DSvUA8e6ky3tOkrfki55q38QAj6nurWv/s3936/Evercade+Handheld+Retro+Video+Game+System.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Evercade Console" border="0" data-original-height="2064" data-original-width="3936" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqdcWfD2bDqfOqtyayLUnXR87JLCxPzGki_hHMwYrIjf8pZLv9Gp3bDUAHwPSknPN7ewNQQu8UJ-2ZwmYkrFgQPtODijntin0C2k0Butz9vug3DSvUA8e6ky3tOkrfki55q38QAj6nurWv/w500-h263/Evercade+Handheld+Retro+Video+Game+System.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Evercade console in white<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>What's great:</b><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Huge selection of cartridges right out the door (10
available, 4 coming in Q3)</li><li>The console has a decent weight to it and the build quality
is solid. There’s no quality concerns like with generic consoles from China like the SupaBoy (e.g. hair or dirt behind screen, smudges in finish, etc.)</li><li>The buttons have a great feel and response. The response similar to an Xbox controller, which is high praise.</li><li>The L+R buttons have a little less weight but make a
satisfying clicky sound </li><li>The cartridges are a good size, maybe around the size of a
Game Gear game (not tiny and easy to lose like the Switch)</li><li>Easy-to-access menu during gameplay</li><li>Nice looking, quality boxes for the cartridges and color
manuals</li><li>Rechargeable battery</li><li>HDMI output</li><li>Low priced games and system. The system is about $100 with
three cartridges, and the cartridges are $20 each. The system with all ten
games is $200.</li></ul><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzmsZ_uPP-CovW0ksOl5Do2iMLp-VxdKtqpikh5muiTVH1Fvpqm-b1y-p59IJPHI_O2q2Ezn86Ljf-IA-dLD-9eGu0BDJPew4KrPrfXhlxmwQH6iApd6LsFd89ScQahhpVH6FBxHMMZ_93/s3524/Evercade+Handheld+Retro+Video+Game+Shell.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="cartridge case" border="0" data-original-height="3144" data-original-width="3524" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzmsZ_uPP-CovW0ksOl5Do2iMLp-VxdKtqpikh5muiTVH1Fvpqm-b1y-p59IJPHI_O2q2Ezn86Ljf-IA-dLD-9eGu0BDJPew4KrPrfXhlxmwQH6iApd6LsFd89ScQahhpVH6FBxHMMZ_93/w320-h285/Evercade+Handheld+Retro+Video+Game+Shell.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEYU1b498QbSNbaM9Yv0hm_SsZBSf3yxxz3hrHLP-9YkykPAFWXha0tXLinmaGDL7UsSeyGWJ-pQl02LfJ-TxBZKaUDJ48VxWRpZ6haVMUqSDTppFrrwT_BE5zqebt_CRRxG9maRUetBuK/s4392/Evercade+Handheld+Retro+Video+Game+Shell+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img alt="evercade cartridge case" border="0" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="4392" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEYU1b498QbSNbaM9Yv0hm_SsZBSf3yxxz3hrHLP-9YkykPAFWXha0tXLinmaGDL7UsSeyGWJ-pQl02LfJ-TxBZKaUDJ48VxWRpZ6haVMUqSDTppFrrwT_BE5zqebt_CRRxG9maRUetBuK/w400-h234/Evercade+Handheld+Retro+Video+Game+Shell+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love the cartridge cases!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>What could be better:</b><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Cartridge fit is fairly tight… not on the contacts, but the
left and right sides are lacking adequate clearance. </li><li>D-pad feels a little mushy, about what you’d expect from a 3<sup>rd</sup>
party value controller</li><li>Screen angle viewing isn’t great, but you’re going to be
head on playing this thing so not a big deal</li><li>Screen could be a little larger</li><li>There seems to be only one save state per cartridge, vs. one
per game</li><li>Sound quality isn’t the greatest. Granted these are 8 and 16
bit tunes, but they can still sound better with a little more wattage and a
larger driver. </li><li>A number of the games are two-player, but I don’t think
there’s a way to link up two of these puppies. </li></ul><o:p></o:p><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsI3pIwJnnZ_reVCUENBlcKRDQYlswchx4Zx2P7fWC5NZ45cIOEEPrObHYqIiwTUQCYWv1-6VsgwY2QHaLvZl8SEomUM_xrRBw5RN-HV-V83QpP7HGO49H8G96Iy09pgUWE7d4uZhVgwxf/s2752/Evercade+Handheld+Retro+Video+Game+System+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img alt="Evercade Console Back" border="0" data-original-height="2112" data-original-width="2752" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsI3pIwJnnZ_reVCUENBlcKRDQYlswchx4Zx2P7fWC5NZ45cIOEEPrObHYqIiwTUQCYWv1-6VsgwY2QHaLvZl8SEomUM_xrRBw5RN-HV-V83QpP7HGO49H8G96Iy09pgUWE7d4uZhVgwxf/w400-h308/Evercade+Handheld+Retro+Video+Game+System+back.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That cartridge fit is tight!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br />Overall I think the Evercade is a really nice gesture to the retro
gaming community. It’s a solid product with a price-point that’s accessible to many
and already has great support from developers. The whole premise reminds me a
bit of the NEO GEO X Gold, which was a nostalgic system released mostly for
collectors where games were sold separately via cartridge. While I love SNK and
the Neo Geo, I think the Evercade has more going for it than the X Gold with access to a variety of publishers. </p><p class="MsoNormal">The real litmus test
is in the games, and Evercade already has 10 titles available at launch (very
impressive) and 4 more which will be releasing in Q3. Not only are there
classic games, but new titles like Xeno Crisis and Tanglewood are being released.
I’d really like to see it succeed so we can have even more newly released games
and more classic collections to check out. I think the unit’s success in the
market will be dependent on gaining more buy-in from devs so there are more
carts available to consumers.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTax2e5XW-IF5DXN-Qc9dVeLahRVa2o332XIiKZ78L1S4XWkKa8hYiKTYnc3unFT9eg4V8Lp09YegMoS6PmpxdEpKLkQ3LsnSCSbr0HY3a_OmRJQdjTswsDA1VIMylpCjhMgIlQ23XcFYu/s4764/Evercade+Handheld+Retro+Video+Game+Case.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Storage Case" border="0" data-original-height="2790" data-original-width="4764" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTax2e5XW-IF5DXN-Qc9dVeLahRVa2o332XIiKZ78L1S4XWkKa8hYiKTYnc3unFT9eg4V8Lp09YegMoS6PmpxdEpKLkQ3LsnSCSbr0HY3a_OmRJQdjTswsDA1VIMylpCjhMgIlQ23XcFYu/w500-h293/Evercade+Handheld+Retro+Video+Game+Case.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The storage case is a nice option<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>What could Evercade do to make a very solid release even
better?</b><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Allow a save state for each game and enable two player via a
firmware update. </li><li>Offer a premium stand-alone console later down the line that
addresses the compromises (screen, d-pad, speakers, maybe include a bigger
battery) and sell for $199-$249. Collectors aren’t as price sensitive as normal
consumers. </li></ul><o:p></o:p><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>Currently available cartridges</b><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Atari Collection 1 (with 20 games)</li><li>Namco Museum 1 (with 11 games)</li><li>Data East Collection 1 (with 10 games)</li><li>Interplay Collection 1 (with 6 games) </li><li>Atari Collection 2 (with 20 games)</li><li>Namco Museum 2 (with 11 games)</li><li>Interplay Collection 2 (with 6 games)</li><li>Mega Cat Studios Collection 1 (with 10 games)</li><li>Piko Interactive Collection 1 (with 20 games)</li><li>Technos Collection 1 (with 8 games)</li></ul><o:p></o:p><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-87411301033956583602020-06-12T13:26:00.007-04:002022-04-15T16:12:05.132-04:00Balanced XLR Switchbox - Audio Design HAS-3LBWhen it comes to passive balanced switchboxes, there aren't a whole lot of off-the-shelf options out there. It's not uncommon to just build them from scratch with a nice switch and point-to-point wiring as they're not terribly complicated.<div><br /></div><div>I recently learned of a Japanese audio company called Audio Design that offers a simple but solid 3 in, 1 out balanced switchbox. The outside is a straight-forward design with a dark blue and silver aluminum box with a brushed aluminum front panel. The only control is the single selector knob up front to switch between the 3 outputs. What counts though is the inside, where there is a high-quality Seiden selector switch, some high-quality Neutric XLR jacks, and some thick copper wire... which appears to be 18 or 20 gauge. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_oEkQ7dZ2Oz-ukaixHNgYvSmyRL87K5lQSGlEoXNciJqJbofPOlkH07nOCqvHHlS1ceUQ1bJVqvk7nNsCfu1eOsMZqwV3234mbnXpTqGRTBcxo3ZFk5xezxrcs6JrCd6ffFe7a8RFzMbv/s3798/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Back+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Balanced XLR Switchbox - Audio Design HAS-3LB" border="0" data-original-height="2328" data-original-width="3798" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_oEkQ7dZ2Oz-ukaixHNgYvSmyRL87K5lQSGlEoXNciJqJbofPOlkH07nOCqvHHlS1ceUQ1bJVqvk7nNsCfu1eOsMZqwV3234mbnXpTqGRTBcxo3ZFk5xezxrcs6JrCd6ffFe7a8RFzMbv/w400-h245/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Back+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8U9Rw1fmhz8h9K8ArWdL-VPey_n_9xdcdxcuAnsqKpGHkE5RL8xAL_JxJpfYJSgueO5sxkBGq5F67HPRlBPs_el3bMde_kGHb0dccdkEqF30CeEt9NlfvHWdHr4mM4dGiaycfYJV7yId1/s2820/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Front+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Balanced XLR Switchbox - Audio Design HAS-3LB" border="0" data-original-height="2112" data-original-width="2820" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8U9Rw1fmhz8h9K8ArWdL-VPey_n_9xdcdxcuAnsqKpGHkE5RL8xAL_JxJpfYJSgueO5sxkBGq5F67HPRlBPs_el3bMde_kGHb0dccdkEqF30CeEt9NlfvHWdHr4mM4dGiaycfYJV7yId1/w400-h300/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Front+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>One of my clients owns the unit, and wanted to take it to the next level. The Seiden switch is already top-notch, could stay, but we'd replace the copper wire with solder core silver wire in Teflon tubing, the XLRs with the shiny and beautiful Cardas XLRs, and the generic plastic feet with EAR isodamp feet. </div><div><br /></div><div>I will say in advance, if you will be using the Cardas CM F and CM M XLRs, you better have a solder pot. The rhodium plating is not terribly interested in taking on solder so the areas where the wires connect need to be submerged in very hot solder for 10-15 seconds before they will be responsive. I personally use an American Beauty MP-9 solder pot for small jobs like this. I turn it on to the highest temp and let it warm for an hour before using. Kester low dross solder works well. </div><div><br /></div><div>Once all the Cardas XLRs had been prepped, the old Neutrik XLRs were removed from the rear panel and replaced. They are the same DIN dimensions, so no need to change the hole sizes or shapes. Note that the Cardas units have pins can comply to some extent thanks to a soft material surrounding them. I don't know if this was done for vibration damping or maybe the tolerances aren't super tight, but just an observation. </div><div><br /></div><div>The 24 gauge solid silver is then hand-sleeved in Teflon tubing and attached to each terminal. One should note to not make the paths too short or tight, as this will pull on the decks of the Seiden switch and cause there to be less surface area for the gold plated contacts to press upon. I chose to add heatshrink tubing over the solder contacts as silver will oxidize over time. The oxidation is still conductive, but it doesn't look as nice. Also it keeps the joints secure when shipping. </div><div><br /></div><div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbqoNxhzHVBTZ_HPq6P3PUaqWoc_ym_8C6NGoRjaAGJ50gDnLZNd2fIuCK5qmel28Kd7YgtuRWDYBLO0Aus-xeJGW8hF6mCyKLx3JR6JMvYhQGEXVo55XoJbqs5j83ZtrIZsuBRDQFuXq7/s2800/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Top+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Balanced XLR Switchbox - Audio Design HAS-3LB" border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="2800" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbqoNxhzHVBTZ_HPq6P3PUaqWoc_ym_8C6NGoRjaAGJ50gDnLZNd2fIuCK5qmel28Kd7YgtuRWDYBLO0Aus-xeJGW8hF6mCyKLx3JR6JMvYhQGEXVo55XoJbqs5j83ZtrIZsuBRDQFuXq7/w400-h309/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Top+3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh452FiyF2pBckx4UgZSZz3cfuciQEw3KT2p869xSmpQK_URyVlQX4wPC1pT0K30Q4h58dyKUPpfvydqYNQRhJV4uvRtqwq1nb-co4E-YNrNctzKe-wH8-x8gcTZQwYswudDlplK4QlQ-QS/s4002/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Front+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Balanced XLR Switchbox - Audio Design HAS-3LB" border="0" data-original-height="3156" data-original-width="4002" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh452FiyF2pBckx4UgZSZz3cfuciQEw3KT2p869xSmpQK_URyVlQX4wPC1pT0K30Q4h58dyKUPpfvydqYNQRhJV4uvRtqwq1nb-co4E-YNrNctzKe-wH8-x8gcTZQwYswudDlplK4QlQ-QS/w400-h315/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Front+5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhesk2uwtbFODCTDtNaELNZgsEQNIW5kMQbPlS3xBiJnZECr6_HUAFCIKP_Z1op-hYN6CzSejzNYW2oRzLr6wUZJASDyoKa4fW61w2HCXi2KsVEaNz9-cFxMFbFtEOs7iexE3PfT002XYQU/s4080/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Front+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Balanced XLR Switchbox - Audio Design HAS-3LB" border="0" data-original-height="3233" data-original-width="4080" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhesk2uwtbFODCTDtNaELNZgsEQNIW5kMQbPlS3xBiJnZECr6_HUAFCIKP_Z1op-hYN6CzSejzNYW2oRzLr6wUZJASDyoKa4fW61w2HCXi2KsVEaNz9-cFxMFbFtEOs7iexE3PfT002XYQU/w400-h318/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Front+4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrhn0aTISRcAuVLNwaUQyoMR1hL-LR39K63irMg6mf-q_9xjScO5jdTtsHo_kpXWbls5Gpg7repo0uj-EanF_nL9xLc3QOQYmmAiwsyxulzQXcXYbTsVUUL8659NDafDVK6xGIhheSaIaB/s4164/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Angle+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Balanced XLR Switchbox - Audio Design HAS-3LB" border="0" data-original-height="3312" data-original-width="4164" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrhn0aTISRcAuVLNwaUQyoMR1hL-LR39K63irMg6mf-q_9xjScO5jdTtsHo_kpXWbls5Gpg7repo0uj-EanF_nL9xLc3QOQYmmAiwsyxulzQXcXYbTsVUUL8659NDafDVK6xGIhheSaIaB/w400-h319/Balanced+Line+Selector+Switchbox+HAS+Angle+6.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The feet on the unit are attached with screws into threaded holes. There are no nuts or lock washers to worry about, so switching them is quick and painless. </div><div><br /></div><div>Whether modded or not, I think the Audio Design HAS-3LB is a very solid unit with no real shortcomings other than a slightly vanilla design. Should you wish to extract every bit of performance out of a stock unit, reach out to zynsonix.com for pricing information. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a><br /><br /><b><br /></b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Disclosure: </b></span><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Please remember that building/modifying circuits can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. </span></div>HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-21039299180634592692020-04-29T15:01:00.002-04:002020-05-06T16:25:25.542-04:00Dynaco PAS Full Function RCA Jack Kit from Dynakit Parts<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Likely the most popular tube amps in existence, Dynaco has
many fans both young and old. Given how well they have stood the test of time,
I hope they continue to be sought after for many decades to come. There are a
number of companies offering kits resembling the originals with modern bits and
pieces, but if you want to build or restore a Dynaco as close to the spirit of
the original as possible, <a href="https://www.dynakitparts.com/" target="_blank">Dynakit Parts</a> offerings are a great choice. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dynakit Parts is a company based in Paramus, New Jersey and
has an impressive selection of reproductions of all the most popular Dynaco vacuum tube products. The kits are about as close to the originals as you can get, from the
can capacitor to the screw-down terminal strips but have the benefit of using
freshly made transformers and other modern parts. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you are familiar with the older Dynakits from the 60s,
you will remember they featured RCA inputs that are a little different than
what we typically see today. On the pre-amps and integrated amps, they were
spaced very close to one another and it is hard to find RCA cables that fit
them now-a-days, not to mention middling quality (though good for the time). <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There have been several attempts to reproduce the RCA board
on the PAS using higher quality materials, however because of the spacing, not
all the RCAs were able to fit in these offerings. Now that we're in 2020 that is not the case. Dynakit Parts
has created a very nice-looking solution for those of you looking to feature
all the inputs of the original while also providing a high-quality
solution.<span> Best of all, you do not have to cut or modify the existing chassis in any way, the kit fits like a glove. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsYDeV8_7Abxci9_MQyFTkMx6Je2T9wvvHyDPyALvNk_70GzEOx7GGUkzEzdr97Kc4T7_AhPre6Ic_8H0M-004xK0nqSRPHY4N_As6dpt3_PAvXAVBF8JPbyPASoqFkc5fHaUoDOekSPm/s1600/Dynakit+PAS+RCA+board+kit+Dynakitparts.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="974" data-original-width="1600" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsYDeV8_7Abxci9_MQyFTkMx6Je2T9wvvHyDPyALvNk_70GzEOx7GGUkzEzdr97Kc4T7_AhPre6Ic_8H0M-004xK0nqSRPHY4N_As6dpt3_PAvXAVBF8JPbyPASoqFkc5fHaUoDOekSPm/s640/Dynakit+PAS+RCA+board+kit+Dynakitparts.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span><br /></span></div>
<br /><br />
Above you'll see the items that are included in the kit. You get the handsome brown polyimide board with integrated grounding scheme, nine pair of gold RCAs, two pair of half-watt resistors, a bag of hardware, some detailed instructions, and a nice decal to identify the connections. The cost is a very reasonable $75, especially considering how many gold-plated RCAs are included. Last I checked they run about $6 a pair at <a href="https://www.parts-express.com/" target="_blank">PartsExpress</a>, so you can do the math.<br />
<br />
Something else that $75 bucks buys you is you don't have to wire up all the ground connections. Just tightening on the RCAs makes electrical connection with the integrated grounding. The image below gives you a better look at the traces.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixOPOlmUEiLEENtlb6dsjXcikGpFgzJLe5fdvy_Rf5eWXbzU3Mr5zl-QAFQwXkIygc1KFHTx3_sRbOroBIOTCjN7gmxyJDhEV2ly1Bq6mB_t5etq5KmSIuGkdm_3GQHUC914oe5wK68fut/s1600/Dynakit+PAS+RCA+board+kit+Dynakitparts+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="740" data-original-width="1600" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixOPOlmUEiLEENtlb6dsjXcikGpFgzJLe5fdvy_Rf5eWXbzU3Mr5zl-QAFQwXkIygc1KFHTx3_sRbOroBIOTCjN7gmxyJDhEV2ly1Bq6mB_t5etq5KmSIuGkdm_3GQHUC914oe5wK68fut/s640/Dynakit+PAS+RCA+board+kit+Dynakitparts+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
So what do you have to do to get this puppy ready for install? Simply populate the RCAs onto the board and lightly tighten with a socket tool of your choice. Next you add the resistors and solder in place, and viola! you are done. So simple you can knock it out in 5-10 minutes. You'd then install on your PAS chassis using the provided hardware, or if you prefer a permanent install you can use pop-rivets to fasten the board in place.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh73TP_ek-cqu2kgc44BHvTr0ckGj1C0tvP56GdYmTuN1m289Ltt2La7Z9Hz6snwypB_92IQnwXl3vr6ipmKIYxlH5nBzy7JoS3aeQifZAGBXQGg02Ahp9n0lIHkCyKjdjK7QEcS39z33s7/s1600/Dynakit+PAS+RCA+board+kit+Dynakitparts+3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="911" data-original-width="1600" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh73TP_ek-cqu2kgc44BHvTr0ckGj1C0tvP56GdYmTuN1m289Ltt2La7Z9Hz6snwypB_92IQnwXl3vr6ipmKIYxlH5nBzy7JoS3aeQifZAGBXQGg02Ahp9n0lIHkCyKjdjK7QEcS39z33s7/s640/Dynakit+PAS+RCA+board+kit+Dynakitparts+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Here is the other side of the board when completed.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkO9bynIJzL3p40BC74Et1Pdf3cp7tjWlgUfFI1XV_FKBUo4_BZxGl0-hucEW-CGganGyBHi4OuWJfw46u1ctCxwRYwHrylu26dDRUmPFGKLFuIUlNntHvzLNLH6Q0T27h_7_Nxfml7Yt/s1600/Dynakit+PAS+RCA+board+kit+Dynakitparts+4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1383" data-original-width="1600" height="552" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkO9bynIJzL3p40BC74Et1Pdf3cp7tjWlgUfFI1XV_FKBUo4_BZxGl0-hucEW-CGganGyBHi4OuWJfw46u1ctCxwRYwHrylu26dDRUmPFGKLFuIUlNntHvzLNLH6Q0T27h_7_Nxfml7Yt/s640/Dynakit+PAS+RCA+board+kit+Dynakitparts+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">...and here are a couple of images of the unit installed in a chassis (the nice ground lug is included in the parts):</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR0_bVMHmUu76QrFue8qX1Pc7PT16J6vYW6XDkI7vz6m2fwyda9rhbDel5odG3MDo-8AFG_aLh1lla0qfDn8Rw0_9K5ZhkP9EH9XVBT6iydN155b5zJtW3ZTnYbwRJHeYdnCEbMiRkzjm9/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR0_bVMHmUu76QrFue8qX1Pc7PT16J6vYW6XDkI7vz6m2fwyda9rhbDel5odG3MDo-8AFG_aLh1lla0qfDn8Rw0_9K5ZhkP9EH9XVBT6iydN155b5zJtW3ZTnYbwRJHeYdnCEbMiRkzjm9/w640-h480/0.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCi5BCjmFLnrEI0PjcgL0DqGtgfrBvTTx1hnICAsVx1auHplxhwe3MnbxipJDbojOIWAl7fsv_WZqu69dj1sVzVgntxeT_GmAnpWhe0nScOkjZwq2NE9F0n8JsOh2E5LvLaMInwbhvkXUI/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCi5BCjmFLnrEI0PjcgL0DqGtgfrBvTTx1hnICAsVx1auHplxhwe3MnbxipJDbojOIWAl7fsv_WZqu69dj1sVzVgntxeT_GmAnpWhe0nScOkjZwq2NE9F0n8JsOh2E5LvLaMInwbhvkXUI/w640-h480/PAS-RCA+photo+2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>
<br />
<br />
So what's the verdict? If you are looking for an RCA board that features all the connectivity of the original PAS, this is a no-brainer. It's well made, easy to use and the gold RCAs look like they'll withstand the test of time. You could make a similar board yourself by drilling out a FR4 board, but you'd end up paying the same or more and it probably wouldn't look as nice. <br />
<br />
Now, if you're not a purist and don't need every connection available for the PAS, Dynakit Parts makes a nice <a href="https://www.dynakitparts.com/shop/pas-rca-jack-kit/" target="_blank">kit</a> with a couple less RCAs for a very reasonable $50 (as of this writing). <br />
<br />
If you're interested in the PAS RCA board or other Dynaco-related items, whether building a kit or performing a restoration, <a href="https://www.dynakitparts.com/" target="_blank">Dynakit Parts</a> should be on your short-list. I've ordered quite a few things from Kevin over the years and everything has been superlative.<br />
<br />
Hope you enjoyed the write-up. For more PAS related entertainment, you can check out this <a href="http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2011/02/complete-restoration-of-dynaco-pas-pre.html" target="_blank">restoration</a> I did several years ago.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Review disclosure:</b> Dynakit Parts provided a reviewer's sample of the PAS RCA Board to DIYAudioBlog for an honest review. </span></div>
HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-86182631497755944022020-02-04T15:17:00.001-05:002022-03-25T16:31:56.453-04:00AudioQuest NightHawk Carbon Custom Headphone Cable<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Unless you’ve been hiding under a rock, you’d know that
<a href="https://www.audioquest.com/" target="_blank">AudioQuest</a> is one of the most prolific audio cable manufacturers in the
business. They also make some other nice stuff including the Dragonfly-series USB
DACs and Niagara-series power conditioners. I personally really like their
Jitterbug, an inexpensive little USB device that filters the power on your
computer’s USB out. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Several years ago, Audioquest released their first foray
into the burgeoning headphone market: The Nighthawk. The Nighthawk was priced
competitively at $699 when it came out in 2015. It also made use of 3D printed "plastic-wood" cups, which was relatively cutting edge for the time. Since then, there’s been
so much fierce competition in this price range that it would be hard to
recommend it at its original price (these days I’d recommend the <a href="https://www.audeze.com/" target="_blank">Audeze</a> LCD-2 Classic
or <a href="https://danclarkaudio.com/" target="_blank">MrSpeakers/Dan Clark Audio</a> AEON in this range). </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
AudioQuest must have noticed the sea-change in the space, subsequently reducing the price to $599, then to $399, before
discontinuing it at a price of $249. Somewhere during this 5-year stint the NightHawk Carbon came out with a revised driver and a closed-model, the NightOwl, came out. The interesting plastic-wood was also replaced with a less unique (and probably less polarizing) shimmering dark blue, not too far from the color-scheme of some Massdrop headphones like the Sennheiser HD-6XX (see 6XX mods <a href="http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2018/07/cable-and-mods-for-sennheiser-massdrop.html" target="_blank">here</a>). <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Does the free-falling price-point insinuate that Audioquest's stint into headphones was poorly executed? Not at all, it's actually quite good for a company's first entry in the space. I personally find them a joy to listen to. Their signature is warm, slightly dark, very
forgiving of poorly recorded music (think garage indie and alternative rock), and provide good bass quality and quantity.
They’re well suited for movies and videogames in addition to music. They’re also
very easy to drive with a 25-ohm impedance, and they’re light and comfortable. Some
other niceties include a substantial travel case, two different pairs of
earpads in the box (leather and velour), and a headphone cable with a microphone built in. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Oddly, the headphone cable is only four feet, which is a
length typically reserved for headphones that are intended for mostly portable
use. Given the NightHawk is semi-open and is not foldable, this is an odd
choice, but fortunately solvable given the cable is user replaceable. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Given the Nighthawks are on the dark/warm side of things, a
crisp-sounding cable will help bring the details out and give the headphone a
more balanced sound. I chose the Xev, which is silver-clad copper in PTFE,
rather than an all-copper or litz copper solution. Had the headphone been more
detailed to start, a copper cable would work perfectly well. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Xev is a hand-braided litz of four isolated 24 gauge silver-clad copper wires sleeved in soft black nylon multifilament from TechFlex. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ6olOzqKY0zCoBovXLX6PudBJzirvWcZmRCRkLTapQaT8Oieh5o8vw0SdCW2BRoGYl3suD0slIGA37FVMMQ3w4VWusVasHlRzKVmoJSRLkRHPjqod1xfRisZRWtWKj4p_pD-oyPOCkZgq/s1600/Audioquest+Nighthawk+headphone+cable+sleeved.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1050" data-original-width="1600" height="417" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ6olOzqKY0zCoBovXLX6PudBJzirvWcZmRCRkLTapQaT8Oieh5o8vw0SdCW2BRoGYl3suD0slIGA37FVMMQ3w4VWusVasHlRzKVmoJSRLkRHPjqod1xfRisZRWtWKj4p_pD-oyPOCkZgq/s640/Audioquest+Nighthawk+headphone+cable+sleeved.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
The NightHawk makes use of 2.5mm TS connectors, where the sleeve is ground/negative, and the tip is signal/positive. They need to be slim fit or you'll run into issues. <a href="https://eidolic.com/" target="_blank">Eidolic</a> makes a nice connector that fits the requirements as of this writing, and you can find solutions on AliExpress as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNj1iqvvQfVtlO2eTOpq7DiFkz2cLssTgU-4pDfDFCfAwTEI5OkC-Ql6E_0oQ7UNUs2ecB0YT0BsTe8yxO8wiOtuD_h4EAjlTcJ5jDxYn5CsygJjrNQKRc8Tphea-PqqQ_36TrCXEXRDDU/s1600/Audioquest+Nighthawk+headphone+cable+Y+Split.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1118" data-original-width="1600" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNj1iqvvQfVtlO2eTOpq7DiFkz2cLssTgU-4pDfDFCfAwTEI5OkC-Ql6E_0oQ7UNUs2ecB0YT0BsTe8yxO8wiOtuD_h4EAjlTcJ5jDxYn5CsygJjrNQKRc8Tphea-PqqQ_36TrCXEXRDDU/s640/Audioquest+Nighthawk+headphone+cable+Y+Split.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Below is a photo of the completed Xev cable, flexible and lightweight with plenty of length for those of us that need more than 4 feet. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXBDBzrVCdQABwpYuUketeujScwvWtGy0J7Ss5e9yF29Jorb78s8jI7qXh5NtUIYVH_h7RMUarNMaJqSQyRPVjBtD1rO8UUzOS881Ohf9P4f9CgXmhhPsbf0r9bzAHnfpKoEv_2e3yHa7a/s1600/Audioquest+Nighthawk+headphone+cable+Complete.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1078" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXBDBzrVCdQABwpYuUketeujScwvWtGy0J7Ss5e9yF29Jorb78s8jI7qXh5NtUIYVH_h7RMUarNMaJqSQyRPVjBtD1rO8UUzOS881Ohf9P4f9CgXmhhPsbf0r9bzAHnfpKoEv_2e3yHa7a/s640/Audioquest+Nighthawk+headphone+cable+Complete.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The sound is notably more balanced with more prominent treble, making it a definite keeper. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBfgaFeTMLLFxzyB6AU66zW2dDYjLsO5YdxkxjVtgyx1vdp4OI24CCyQrIxy6r-GZTuzZVzSu4d8ioqxJjfkL-Y1WGjR09XCd-AobSwi9NzI_eeGUWiEO1a5H6CF787Ea1SUPdP5Fav-Rn/s1600/Audioquest+Nighthawk+headphone+cable+attached.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1163" data-original-width="1600" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBfgaFeTMLLFxzyB6AU66zW2dDYjLsO5YdxkxjVtgyx1vdp4OI24CCyQrIxy6r-GZTuzZVzSu4d8ioqxJjfkL-Y1WGjR09XCd-AobSwi9NzI_eeGUWiEO1a5H6CF787Ea1SUPdP5Fav-Rn/s640/Audioquest+Nighthawk+headphone+cable+attached.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
If you are interested in the NightHawk Carbon, I'd suggest picking one up soon, as they are discontinued and AudioQuest has released a letter to distributors indicating they don't plan to offer any subsequent headphones, at least not in the immediate future. For the current price, build quality and extras, I could see this being a great first step into audiophile headphones, although one should also check out the Sennheiser/Massdrop <a href="http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2018/07/cable-and-mods-for-sennheiser-massdrop.html" target="_blank">HD-6XX</a>, it's a hard value to beat.<br />
<br />
To order a custom cable for the NightHawk, NightHawk Carbon, NightOwl, or many other headphones, please visit <a href="http://zynsonix.com/">Zynsonix.com</a> today.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" target="_blank"><br /></a></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-41260841386180674942019-12-18T17:46:00.001-05:002019-12-18T17:52:04.374-05:00SupaBoy SFC Super Nintendo Emulator Review<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The SupaBoy SFC is one strange customer. We’ve seen a number
of DIYers hack desktop videogame consoles to work on the go, but it’s typically
for the novelty or the challenge. Hyperkin’s SupaBoy takes the familiar
brightly colored Super Nintendo controller and adds about a pound of extras,
including a 4.3” LCD screen, speakers, two controller ports, a cartridge slot,
rechargeable battery and a variety of buttons. The additions aren’t quite
svelte or seamless as the ergonomics are a little awkward, but it does have the
look of a finished product.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The SupaBoy plays as the Pied Piper, whistling sweet tunes to
nostalgic gamers (probably in their late 20s to early 40s) who still hold a
place in their heart for the Super Nintendo and have held on to a few
cartridges. Drawing you in are the insanely low price ($65 at various retailers
as of this writing) and the promise of simple access to your SNES library
without having to pull your console out of the closet and fiddle with the
connectors. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgTgtA8OO8xgWRoparDbERS7Y7bk1qQv_JgyBD93PqWNZVyz86LBCeNEKriAfrAQGvOeFZCcPKvp72Vc9l-mQEKJLFV_3m7QRdvBbFJyJrVdszgJ-9vHlROrqhzJX-vBeQRv10MJqelE-f/s1600/HyperKin+SupaBoy+SFC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="518" data-original-width="615" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgTgtA8OO8xgWRoparDbERS7Y7bk1qQv_JgyBD93PqWNZVyz86LBCeNEKriAfrAQGvOeFZCcPKvp72Vc9l-mQEKJLFV_3m7QRdvBbFJyJrVdszgJ-9vHlROrqhzJX-vBeQRv10MJqelE-f/s400/HyperKin+SupaBoy+SFC.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once you get the console in your hands, the first oddity is
the cartridge sticking up above the unit when seated, quite unusual if you are
used to the flush fitting Gameboy cartridges. Wrapping your hands around the
console gives you an idea of its girth. It’s slightly unnatural feeling, but
you can get used to it. Some may be bothered by the weight, but at just under a
pound it’s not bad. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There’s a lot to like: the screen is nice and colorful, you
can adjust the brightness, there’s a 4:3 mode, the battery is rechargeable and
user-replaceable, it charges off of a standard 5V USB cable, the controls feel
solid, the cartridge slot has a flip up dust protector, and there’s a headphone
output. I was also surprised that given this is a hardware emulator, it was
compatible with every game I tried.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One of the items that falls into the could-be-better territory
includes the cartridge seating. I found I had to seat and reseat a number of
cartridges to get them to start. Another bugger is the quality control. The
first unit I received had a fingerprint smudge behind the screen. The second
had a little bit of dust, which I can live with. Given those obvious flaws,
there may be other issues lying inside, but I have not cracked the unit open to
assess. On several reviews, I noticed some users suffered from having their
saves deleted by the console. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVN_KWIaRiVgwEhL7m7xWGVw6qxmvEDkUXIzZH6ncyDJJN48TQGnrXlMZbAb-2stY5-YvRaM7-xbg94gQu1vBcOJV_IEg4yAdi-kiOT8oyl2eBnz_pJLFZlgEbyxL_PQycWQC6RDyumej/s1600/HyperKin+SupaBoy+SFC+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="880" data-original-width="820" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVN_KWIaRiVgwEhL7m7xWGVw6qxmvEDkUXIzZH6ncyDJJN48TQGnrXlMZbAb-2stY5-YvRaM7-xbg94gQu1vBcOJV_IEg4yAdi-kiOT8oyl2eBnz_pJLFZlgEbyxL_PQycWQC6RDyumej/s320/HyperKin+SupaBoy+SFC+2.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Compared to a similar offering that plays 8-bit Nintendo
games, the 8-Bit Boy, the SupaBoy SFC doesn’t have the same quality feel and
screen crispness. The <a href="https://www.gamerztek.com/product-p/8bbxl.htm" target="_blank">8-Bit Boy</a> runs $99, and includes a pair of controllers
and AC Adapter, while the SupaBoy does not, so it’s a relatively fair
comparison. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I think what <a href="https://www.hyperkin.com/" target="_blank">Hyperkin</a> could learn from the U.S. Market is
that video game enthusiasts in the ~20-40 age bracket would likely spare more
than $65 for a better product… or at least a little more for better QC. Given
the popularity of the $185 <a href="https://www.retrousb.com/product_info.php?products_id=78" target="_blank">AVS system</a>, the $189 <a href="https://www.analogue.co/" target="_blank">Analogue</a> Super Nt / Sega Sg,
and the upcoming <a href="https://www.polymega.com/" target="_blank">Polymega</a>, there’s a market for more premium gear that plays
vintage games. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ultimately, the SupaBoy SFC is a good product that makes
sense to use in the house or take with you to a friend’s house with a couple of
games but is a bit to large for most people to use portably. Due to the saving
issues and limitations of emulation, it’s probably not a complete replacement
for a SNES console for most people. At least for $65 it’s a great novelty and
will let you hop into some of your favorite old games without much fuss.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
</div>
HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-46417038968744390802019-11-15T17:30:00.001-05:002022-03-25T16:33:08.089-04:00Linear Tube Audio MicroZOTL MZ3 Headphone Amp<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>The Best Headphone Amp I Have Heard At Any Price</b><br />
<br />
Like most of you, I’ve been doing this audio thing for a while. I’m privileged to be in the MD/DC/VA corridor so I’m able to attend meets and audio shows regularly and sample a lot of different equipment. Generally, at any show there’s plenty of gear that sounds very good, and there are a 2-3 special pieces of equipment that leave a strong, lasting impression. These are usually priced like a new car, but every now and then you find a performance outlier, something that’s disruptive in its price range and should frankly cost far more. One such performance outlier is the subject of this review.<br />
<br />
About a year ago I attended Capital Audio Fest (goes by CAF for short) which has a small but ample headphone presence. There I saw Linear Tube Audio’s booth and wandered over. I was familiar with LTA’s MZ2 headphone amp based on David Berning’s ZOTL technology, having previously listened to it at a meet in its stand-alone state without the power supply upgrade. The unit’s visuals with transparent top harkened back to the original blue Berning headphone amplifier I listened to at a meet many moons ago (its Plexi side window presented the unique topology like a PC enthusiasts rig).<br />
<br />
New at the booth for 2018 was a pre-production MicroZOTL pre-amplifier with a headphone output. I took a look and was a little dismayed it didn’t have a balanced output, but I sat down and had a listen anyway, plugging in a nearby MrSpeakers Aeon Flow (if you’re not familiar, it’s a very good value planar magnetic headphone under $1K) and choosing a song on Tidal. Everything sounded good and well until I heard the strumming of a guitar. It’s hard to describe how incredible it sounded, just crisp, natural and telegraphic, like the acoustic guitar was right there next to me and I needed to turn to my side to confirm it wasn’t. The acoustics of the song had more presence and detail than I was accustomed.<br />
<br />
The gent running the booth, Josh Levi, let me know that MicroZOTL pre-amplifier was based on their new MZ3 headphone amp which would be out shortly, price TBA. Not being content with only a smattering of details, and knowing LTA is a local brand, I reached out to owner Mark Schneider and scheduled time for a visit to the LTA listening room/manufacturing area.<br />
<br />
Mark has a calm and approachable demeanor and is a true engineer. I’m quite certain he has a complete virtual catalog of all the various audio parts available in his brain. We chatted at length on our preferences for various audio jacks, capacitors, resistors, what made an audible difference and what didn’t. Given the length of time I’ve been experimenting with various audio builds, I was almost perplexed that Mark had tried as many different items that he has.<br />
<br />
Besides the parts, Mark was experimenting with myriad other design elements, picking up small but noteworthy improvements in sound. From expensive ceramic circuit boards to non-magnetic transformer covers, everything was there for a reason… sonic improvement. At this point I realized nothing here was getting phoned in, these devices were meticulously designed and likely engineered more carefully than most audio equipment on the market.<br />
<br />
If this were the only thing going for LTA, they’d still be ahead of the pack, but the most unique thing about these amps is the technology. David Berning’s technology is completely unique. You will not find anything like it on the market. I’ve put together countless amps, solid state, tube (both with output transformers and OTL), hybrid, etc. The innards of MicroZOTL amplifiers look completely alien, with hand-wound magnet doughnuts and small towers of diodes residing above them flanked with wires on each side. I’ve read the white paper on how this works, but quite frankly it went above my head. Ultimately, for you and I the listener, we can say “who cares what’s going on inside, all I care about is the sound”. There’s certainly nothing wrong with that approach, but some niceties with this design are reduced heat, much longer tube life, and the units aren’t overly heavy from bulky output transformers. They also have a remarkably black background that you won’t hear in most tube amps.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzPbhEq8dq14kCWOeI4CsM8jOyaFznXX2b6FodO6pijP6o7ePeYiOwcpYdJppRBbcvaY9y91IJCSKcB78voSL2e7mnGUQmwXlMhOsTOZyXh6PSOErvaVScxeKt0De4tCBjlvuSeC8kg1oy/s1600/LTA+MZ3+Tube+OTL+Headphone+Amp+wPower+Supply.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="881" data-original-width="1600" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzPbhEq8dq14kCWOeI4CsM8jOyaFznXX2b6FodO6pijP6o7ePeYiOwcpYdJppRBbcvaY9y91IJCSKcB78voSL2e7mnGUQmwXlMhOsTOZyXh6PSOErvaVScxeKt0De4tCBjlvuSeC8kg1oy/s640/LTA+MZ3+Tube+OTL+Headphone+Amp+wPower+Supply.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Love the volume control display</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="background-color: white; color: #141414; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" />
Long story short, I helped out Mark with some marketing for several months while he finalized the MZ3 and a few months ago took one home. To say that the MZ3 is better than my highly modified Bottlehead Mainline is an incredible understatement. Not that I was dissatisfied with the Mainline, I found it to be a nice step up in terms of clarity from the Bottlehead S.E.X. and it held its own against other amps like the Torpedo, Budgie S.E., a high-voltage octal Aikido build and other various amps that have come through the listening room. The difference, however, is truly palpable. It’s very rare that I’ve changed a piece of gear and it’s just night-and-day better… like almost two decades ago when I shelved some $30 Sony headphones for the Sennheiser HD600s, or when I set aside a pair of HD650s for my first planar magnetic headphones, the Audeze LCD-2.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCIMWIZI1SrZ6mPzftjTzFpji_muISXuO_K3dbaoCWKxLIqXbQXXDIXYBGxgzP6ej0gRTKCnHU4UlJ4D1WgQw_GnYMJt26ZHNlOV-X43Dc60Pojo_f-vYCmvrdo1BPvJsEPNJBdyAvdAu/s1600/LTA+MZ3+Tube+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Rear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1193" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCIMWIZI1SrZ6mPzftjTzFpji_muISXuO_K3dbaoCWKxLIqXbQXXDIXYBGxgzP6ej0gRTKCnHU4UlJ4D1WgQw_GnYMJt26ZHNlOV-X43Dc60Pojo_f-vYCmvrdo1BPvJsEPNJBdyAvdAu/s640/LTA+MZ3+Tube+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Rear.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>The MZ3 is not lacking in connectivity</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="background-color: white; color: #141414; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" />
Listening with my Audeze LCD-4, the MZ3 has a sound that is slightly more neutral than a typical tube amp, but it is still natural sounding. I personally would consider it neutral; others may consider it ever-so-slightly warm. It’s also, full, enveloping, and easy to get lost in the sound and just not think about anything else. Soundstage is precise and crisp. Every detail is there but not obtrusive or overly sharp. I believe what this amp has more than anything else is it just sounds so natural. I was starting to lose interest in headphone listening to speakers, however the MZ3 rekindled that joy so acutely that I often lose track of time playing track after track.<br />
<br />
Bottom line, this is a phenomenal amp, truly the best headphone amp I have ever personally heard at any price. It is not the cheapest amp; however, the price is incredibly reasonable for the performance and all the detail that went into its creation. It’s not a balanced amp, but after hearing it, I honestly don’t care. I think building headphone amps can finally take a rest, as I don’t think I could ever make one that sounds this good. If you are a headphone enthusiast and can swing it, I highly recommend auditioning the MZ3. Even if you need to double your budget, save yourself some time and buy your forever amp. I know if for whatever reason I suddenly needed to rebuild my rig from the ground up, I would be at Mark’s office tomorrow with my credit card in hand.<br />
<span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><b><br /></b></span></span>
<span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><b>PROS</b></span></span><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><b>Beautiful, neutral and engaging sound</b></span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><b>Super black background</b></span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><b>Attractive chassis</b></span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><b>Cool, satisfying haptic-touch volume control</b></span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><b>Includes a remote control</b></span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><b>Has speaker outputs for high-efficiency speakers</b></span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><b>Multiple inputs and pre-amp outputs</b></span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><b>Price is very reasonable for performance level</b></span></span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="color: #141414; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #990000; font-size: 14px;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: #990000; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #990000; font-size: 14px;"><b>CONS</b></span></span></div>
<div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #990000; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><b><span style="color: #990000;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #990000; font-size: 14px;"><div>
Not a warm and syrupy tube amp if you are looking for that</div>
</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><div>
<span style="color: #990000;">Only comes in black</span></div>
</span></span></li>
</b></span></span></ul>
</div>
</div>
<br />
<b>Note: </b>I didn't get into some of the features of the amp as I'll only be using it as a headphone amp with its standard settings using the controls on the chassis... but others will be pleased to know there are three selectable inputs, a pre-amp output, speaker outputs for VERY efficient speakers (the output is about 1 watt), and a remote control that allows you to switch inputs, adjust balance, etc.<br />
<br />
<b>Setup:</b><br />
Audeze LCD-4 Headphones w/Ballista Headphone Cable<br />
PC w/Amazon Music HD Unlimited > Chord USB Cable > Schiit EITR > 110 Ohm Zynsonix Coax Cable > AudioNote DAC 2.1 > Zynsonix RCAs <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a><br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Disclosure: </b>The author provided marketing services for Linear Tube Audio from Sept 2018 to Mar 2019 in exchange for product credit. All views herein are the true opinion of the author and are not the result of any compensation or business arrangement.</span></div>
HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-53038690210907401542019-08-01T17:35:00.000-04:002019-08-01T17:35:18.789-04:00Vanatoo Transparent Zero Powered Mini Speakers Review<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Speakers are often a conundrum for space-strapped
audiophiles. Sure, often larger speakers sound better, but there are often
constraints like room size, distance from the walls and other equipment, and
plenty of other imaging concerns. If you’re not listening in a dedicated
listening room, often these factors are less than ideal. Fortunately, there are
some speakers out there that truly make the most of their minuscule footprint,
filling the room with great sound without being too picky about placement. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The first time I heard the <a href="https://vanatoo.com/l/transparent-zero-bluetooth/" target="_blank">Vanatoo Transparent Zeros</a>, I was
at <a href="http://capitalaudiofest.com/" target="_blank">Capital Audio Fest</a>. I walked into a room full of onlookers (or should they
be “onlisteners”?) with sound effortlessly enveloping me. Then confusingly, I
looked around for what is usually a tower of equipment flanked by a pair of
tall speakers… only to find two minuscule trapezoid-shaped boxes at the front
of the room. Right then I knew the Vanatoos were special.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1XTRPD0pc2FftiZLM-sjOv1Bu4YwJYVyy_k1D62pyJDxY6U9hLj_l8ALFae20kr71Kws8dH0CBsQeTJiCLBbwG33G_JqGiJjI8EwkDNd1sTy1xVT4Xe2jIKmpiY-G9qe55BKN7qOJK-2/s1600/Vanatoo+Transparent+Zero+Mini+Powered+Speakers+grills.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="896" data-original-width="1600" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1XTRPD0pc2FftiZLM-sjOv1Bu4YwJYVyy_k1D62pyJDxY6U9hLj_l8ALFae20kr71Kws8dH0CBsQeTJiCLBbwG33G_JqGiJjI8EwkDNd1sTy1xVT4Xe2jIKmpiY-G9qe55BKN7qOJK-2/s400/Vanatoo+Transparent+Zero+Mini+Powered+Speakers+grills.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>The Zeros come with some sweet magnetic grills and isolation pads</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Granted I have built a couple of small-form-factor full-range
speakers in the past that do a nice job filling a small space and work well for
near-field monitoring. One of which uses a 3” driver from GR Research, and one
uses a 4” driver from Fostex. Both I like to augment with a small subwoofer to
fill in the lower-end. The Vanatoos certainly do not need any low-end
augmentation. The bass quantity is there in spades. This is thanks to a 4”
passive radiator that complements the 4” woofer, moving quite a bit more air
than just a single driver. In fact, the bass is actually a bit much for me
(someone used to listening to headphones) so I simply turn the bass down on the
Vanatoos and all is well.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The bass adjustment is not on the source equipment, the
Transparent Zeros actually have a built-in equalizer. That’s not all, they have
a built-in integrated 4-channel 48W <a href="https://vanatoo.com/audiospeak/class-d-amplifiers/" target="_blank">class D amplifier</a>, USB input with built-in
DAC, wireless remote, Bluetooth (with <a href="https://www.aptx.com/" target="_blank">aptX</a>), and a subwoofer out if you’re a
true basshead and NEED MOAR BASS. It also comes with a host of wires if you happened to not have any USB or analog cables sitting about. So, for $359 a pair, you get a lot for your money... truly a plug and play system where all you need is a phone or computer to get grooving. These
speakers sound quite good in this price-range and fill the room better than
anything I’ve heard at this price.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinl57ef9mUECsxorCGkfEi__-F7xV-i2vsvMI6ni2txNm5ewY66bTlcqn3Jc26m1lp01czos3qURrIdOwhXwXOri3fbXukhtvP7FbL1sDqQF_atRVWZO7r7ctXiioPx8pKZDd5S2Eh-hnB/s1600/Vanatoo+Transparent+Zero+Mini+Powered+Speakers+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinl57ef9mUECsxorCGkfEi__-F7xV-i2vsvMI6ni2txNm5ewY66bTlcqn3Jc26m1lp01czos3qURrIdOwhXwXOri3fbXukhtvP7FbL1sDqQF_atRVWZO7r7ctXiioPx8pKZDd5S2Eh-hnB/s400/Vanatoo+Transparent+Zero+Mini+Powered+Speakers+back.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>A look at the variety of features on the back of the unit</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Being an audiophile and a relentless tweaker, I’ve done quite a bit of experimenting with placement and
found the Zeros sound best in a certain configuration. Per the literature, you
can place the speakers firing up or stood on their handle, firing forward. I
found they sound notably more controlled with firmer bass firing upward, likely because more surface area is planted on whatever surface they are sitting on. I also like them
placed on an IsoAcoustics Aperta stand, mounted on a wood plinth with the
included foam pad sandwiched between the speaker and the wood. To increase the
clarity of the treble, I recommend removing the magnetic speaker grills. These little tweaks may sound silly, but you'll quickly hear a difference. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I haven't tried building any large gauge cables for them yet (or use an audio-grade Ethernet cable to connect the second speaker to the base speaker), but in time I'm sure I'll try it :) Placement, I believe, is far more important. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiW8sPjLnyA6Jpk7QTZyVVQWu30TKas4kZhGIgmprawDRjJ-gkji6bn8r2JnunTsU8aDzRVUeuIuG4KGMD8FzmLMfs_5ZIJYDlmgGB4ccpgoKGioBUt7kDr2ORll6fNAbmTAXtUaSf3BqS/s1600/Vanatoo+Transparent+Zero+Mini+Powered+Speakers+DAC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1093" data-original-width="1600" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiW8sPjLnyA6Jpk7QTZyVVQWu30TKas4kZhGIgmprawDRjJ-gkji6bn8r2JnunTsU8aDzRVUeuIuG4KGMD8FzmLMfs_5ZIJYDlmgGB4ccpgoKGioBUt7kDr2ORll6fNAbmTAXtUaSf3BqS/s400/Vanatoo+Transparent+Zero+Mini+Powered+Speakers+DAC.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>A look at the handsome Zeros sans grills</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9GXdKS7G3InpVIR0AQ6zsdMOYrZ-uryULvMXDZ46UsYVtVv58WhM6OI4bRqstyFY0_wkfoEG41r9dniVfPex9CFB_Ka9cNSBw0O9u71HNmmxRagAwovXD4ZlGEPikTcZ3xxoocsmHOPG4/s1600/Vanatoo+Transparent+Zero+Mini+Powered+Speakers+side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1128" data-original-width="1600" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9GXdKS7G3InpVIR0AQ6zsdMOYrZ-uryULvMXDZ46UsYVtVv58WhM6OI4bRqstyFY0_wkfoEG41r9dniVfPex9CFB_Ka9cNSBw0O9u71HNmmxRagAwovXD4ZlGEPikTcZ3xxoocsmHOPG4/s400/Vanatoo+Transparent+Zero+Mini+Powered+Speakers+side.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>I don't think the Zeros sound quite as controlled in this configuration, <br />but I encourage you to try it yourself.</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />Anything not to like? As mentioned, you’ll probably want to
play with the EQ and potentially use a stand to get the sound to your liking.
In my small listening space, the bass was a little overwhelming and overpowered
the rest of the sound. I believe the standard settings are voiced a little more for the average user vs. the audiophile or enthusiast, which makes sense given the price. Turning down the bass and bumping up the treble results
in a nice, balanced sound (to these ears), falling to the warm side thanks to a forgiving soft-dome tweeter. The typical caveat for Bluetooth applies: while it is
perfectly implemented on the Zeros, it takes some of the life out of the music,
just like every other device I’ve used Bluetooth with. It will be a while
before I ditch the wires ;)<span style="font-family: "Segoe UI Emoji",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI Emoji"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> </span>Connecting is a breeze though and easier than most devices. I was also surprised at the quality of the built-in USB DAC, being quite clear when extracting hi-res music from my phone. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you are looking for an all-in-one sound solution for a
small to medium-sized room and you're looking for good sound quality at a very reasonable cost, the Transparent Zeros
are a great choice. Also, if you anticipate needing something portable that can
be moved from room to room easily (or taken along for travel), the value gets even better. They are
versatile, well made, and have carved themselves a nice niche in the market
that was previously vacant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>The Fine Print:</b> DIYAudioBlog was provided the Vanatoo Transparent Zeros as a review sample, however this does not affect the integrity of this review. I actually use them frequently in my work-room while I build new stuff to blog about ;) </span><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<br /></div>
HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-85173055390493499862019-03-04T17:14:00.000-05:002019-03-04T17:14:35.074-05:00Modding the Atari Lynx Portable with McWill Screen, New Caps<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Atari Lynx is a relatively obscure system that was
released during the burst of hand-held gaming systems between 1989 and 1991.
This included the Lynx, as well as Nintendo’s Game Boy, Sega’s Game Gear, and
NEC’s TurboExpress. While the Game Boy was the value champ and the TurboExpress
was the top performer for kids whose parents belonged to country clubs, the
Lynx and Game Gear were both middle players which had similar orientations,
screens and gaming performance. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG5COcqX0Mt0gbvr4cGwTNTtEhSKymtmJgexz-yeVS2AlZcDYgkKHFeLHUI2urIz7ojSMOmoll67kxbM_TN_XcQid8Elzabkl2iCJAQlyts125ILGtAsF5_4YIBWa3ewsAwwZNYa3y-I5z/s1600/Atari+Lynx+Advertisement.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="509" data-original-width="738" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG5COcqX0Mt0gbvr4cGwTNTtEhSKymtmJgexz-yeVS2AlZcDYgkKHFeLHUI2urIz7ojSMOmoll67kxbM_TN_XcQid8Elzabkl2iCJAQlyts125ILGtAsF5_4YIBWa3ewsAwwZNYa3y-I5z/s400/Atari+Lynx+Advertisement.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old double-page magazine ad of the Atari Lynx</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While they were a blast 30 years ago, by today’s standards,
the backlit screens on these middle performers are dull and faded looking and
not terribly efficient with batteries. Fortunately for fans of retro games,
McWill offers a replacement screen mod for both systems which gives each unit a
crisp and bright display. This is very helpful for those of use who grew up
with these systems and who’s eyes are getting a little older. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn-SoP0CT7_zUHsSQ0hmBhhkRzEOoUPSHLV2jlSAF0PeXZWuSSl7tBGRMgEEki2zdS10AElosX3FxP281JRozXEYU7DHkgOz-Z9Fo0fUchdNISFDVtKXR4l044mg6uRwQ2Ersielc7uPxh/s1600/original+LCD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="195" data-original-width="259" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn-SoP0CT7_zUHsSQ0hmBhhkRzEOoUPSHLV2jlSAF0PeXZWuSSl7tBGRMgEEki2zdS10AElosX3FxP281JRozXEYU7DHkgOz-Z9Fo0fUchdNISFDVtKXR4l044mg6uRwQ2Ersielc7uPxh/s400/original+LCD.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A photo of the original LCD from Gametech.us</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
What else is getting older is the capacitors and power
components in these units. Electrolytic capacitors from this time frame are not
known for reliability and are likely ready to give up the ghost at a moment’s
notice, bursting and oozing out onto the PCB and making restorations more
involved. In addition, the Lynx has some silicon parts that handle the 9V to 5V
regulation that need to be replaced too, otherwise if they fail, the
motherboard can get fed 9V and that is enough to take it out of commission. Fortunately,
these parts are available and cheap to replace, even with nice quality Japanese
caps like Nichicon. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
What’s not cheap is the McWill mod, at $120 as of this
writing, but if you’re a fan of these old systems it is totally worth it. Not
only is it on the pricey side, but it takes some effort. You need to know how
to handle SMD soldering (use tweezers, a fine point iron and lots of liquid
flux). If you are not sure about soldering skills, you should not be handling
these mods. There are several people out there that do the mod for what I
consider to be very reasonable. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As an example, I’m pretty methodical when soldering, but to
replace the caps, power-related parts, and wire up the screen and VGA out takes
a solid 8 hours. Granted if I did it again, I could get it down to 4-5, but
there are people replacing screens on eBay for $200 with the $120 McWill mod
included, and another $60 or so to replace the caps. I’d call that a solid deal
if you’re not inclined to handle it yourself. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I picked up the McWill Screen mod, a set of caps, and the
power parts for about $130 from <a href="https://console5.com/" target="_blank">Console5</a>. They host the instructions PDF as well.
The two-page instructions on the McWill is decent but has a couple of
head-scratchers that you’ll have to Google around to figure out. They could be
better, but I’m sure this mod is a labor of love and McWill’s not getting rich
from it… so just grin and bear it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Before getting started, I placed a paper towel over the
screen and then covered the front of the unit with painters’ tape to protect
it. It doesn’t stick much so it won’t leave residue, and it protects the unit
from getting scratched while you work on it. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXediey6JpKc_fIn94tonr0XaAnbqJ5dzc4lGWNQHSGGnDiJ54kPi7fdDodU-ekdIWbtGL59iZaD2CT6mqXOcZWZiPopW-caOw78Mxf7qH4AIAlwRceN9rD9iOyCT6k7rlcOiwPsnuTsdA/s1600/Ataru+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Taped+Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="881" data-original-width="1600" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXediey6JpKc_fIn94tonr0XaAnbqJ5dzc4lGWNQHSGGnDiJ54kPi7fdDodU-ekdIWbtGL59iZaD2CT6mqXOcZWZiPopW-caOw78Mxf7qH4AIAlwRceN9rD9iOyCT6k7rlcOiwPsnuTsdA/s400/Ataru+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Taped+Front.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using painters tape to protect the Lynx</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
To get the unit open, there are five screws that need to come out, two under each of the rubber grips on the back, and one inside the battery compartment. To get the rubber grips off, wedging a thin screwdriver underneath on one of the corners and gently rocking back and forth will help the adhesive give way. I’d recommend using foam or painters’ tape to protect where the screwdriver’s shaft touches the unit to avoid marring.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6QuA015fhHnKF6FP4wNz-e7RBqe0m88T9p9pMdrfurJagjX8h4IPGAA7wLYv-QMYkVwUa-O40oQcwJ7SPSF2_xJ8_SFazVu8ZNo0g-nnoUv2ZCrJBJasF-D6s4FAQB8vqbyN2cEUq9Qw/s1600/Ataru+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Back+Screws.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="967" data-original-width="1600" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6QuA015fhHnKF6FP4wNz-e7RBqe0m88T9p9pMdrfurJagjX8h4IPGAA7wLYv-QMYkVwUa-O40oQcwJ7SPSF2_xJ8_SFazVu8ZNo0g-nnoUv2ZCrJBJasF-D6s4FAQB8vqbyN2cEUq9Qw/s400/Ataru+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Back+Screws.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Screw locations to get the unit open</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Removing the back cover reveals the circuit board and all
the little capacitors you will have to replace. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_1ZJPEFYvvVaqAD0E_BHnW12M3QT30VUalvolpi-14tO6BLwhyphenhyphenjXrfXt85st5gBaTahikGV7pRBB7ywkc1Bows5Ew8jjCEK4vSyVWOoTFoxH1ALL05I13GVJsGJK4d_EZEcQWiSaS5LLz/s1600/Ataru+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Inside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="859" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_1ZJPEFYvvVaqAD0E_BHnW12M3QT30VUalvolpi-14tO6BLwhyphenhyphenjXrfXt85st5gBaTahikGV7pRBB7ywkc1Bows5Ew8jjCEK4vSyVWOoTFoxH1ALL05I13GVJsGJK4d_EZEcQWiSaS5LLz/s400/Ataru+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Inside.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Atari Lynx interior</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmgPEjlYMr_5kxaWNfiEwXnPuRNrahZjOzNC5woMjxig1qRxK8CDAkqZKY7ZFsncxnXbAr8xZWanHxVpZb6ulxH1b0xIhY4emrl8-B3U5VzMQ1B7eUxHQTmcixLUvTWI635pqwJSFeEytq/s1600/Atari+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Cap+Power+Replacement.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="815" data-original-width="1600" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmgPEjlYMr_5kxaWNfiEwXnPuRNrahZjOzNC5woMjxig1qRxK8CDAkqZKY7ZFsncxnXbAr8xZWanHxVpZb6ulxH1b0xIhY4emrl8-B3U5VzMQ1B7eUxHQTmcixLUvTWI635pqwJSFeEytq/s640/Atari+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Cap+Power+Replacement.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Capacitor locations</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
These are pretty easy to
handle, aside from the one sitting in the middle of the metal shield. For that
one, the copper shielding behind it must be partially removed so you have
access to the solder joints underneath. Once that cap is replaced, the joints
need to be covered with dielectric (electrical tape / Kapton tape, etc.) so the
copper shield doesn’t short it out. For the rest of the caps, simply heating
the joints on the bottom of the PCB while pulling on the cap on the top of the
PCB releases them fairly easily, then a solder sucker can be used to clear the
eyelets on the board. One trick is you should NOT cut the leads until you try
and reseat the back cover to confirm there is clearance. Some of the caps may touch
the case or the speaker so they have to be leaned one way or another. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Based on the directions provided for the McWill, several parts which handled the old LCD need to be removed. You'll notice these are mostly on the right of the photo below. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8SDrTkfy6p2N5OBlroqcYgC_sLUAIQvN7Qi6haHnbZBVZOIQ2VkYn8McQBpj8A1a5TG2-M9Nd-lPUcJrU-jtiq7d9KQxyMg7Z7lf6I8k0qPWHkvcM1dgoCmexqQnA3z_hg153d6o_WuP/s1600/Atari+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Cap+Power+Replacement+Done.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="830" data-original-width="1600" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8SDrTkfy6p2N5OBlroqcYgC_sLUAIQvN7Qi6haHnbZBVZOIQ2VkYn8McQBpj8A1a5TG2-M9Nd-lPUcJrU-jtiq7d9KQxyMg7Z7lf6I8k0qPWHkvcM1dgoCmexqQnA3z_hg153d6o_WuP/s640/Atari+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Cap+Power+Replacement+Done.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh new capacitors installed and non-vital parts removed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next objective is to replace the voltage regulator
parts. This includes a Zener diode, MOSFET, two 3906 transistors and the power
jack. The MOSFET is the largest part. I trimmed off the legs, then heated the
metal backing behind the chip to get it to release. The existing jack is
superglued down next to a teeny transformer, so be very careful when removing
that glue not to damage it. The remaining parts are quite small and require SMD
tools to install (tweezers, liquid flux, small solder tip, etc.).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwqA61zP40JkyvVU2Qgm8a_5ssjwCda1hR_awIhLsX86_CXN5P1svxIdrjcNGy1zTa5SNMjWScWWWTS5Ew0jP85PTwRUZr6SMdZgqFx4gyF-z3aLlJEmOvYWDQh-jJlXLIoZTXRXuwE3E/s1600/Atari+Lynx+rebuild+MOSFET+Power+replacement.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1217" data-original-width="1600" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwqA61zP40JkyvVU2Qgm8a_5ssjwCda1hR_awIhLsX86_CXN5P1svxIdrjcNGy1zTa5SNMjWScWWWTS5Ew0jP85PTwRUZr6SMdZgqFx4gyF-z3aLlJEmOvYWDQh-jJlXLIoZTXRXuwE3E/s400/Atari+Lynx+rebuild+MOSFET+Power+replacement.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The voltage regulator parts are tiny, so be sure you're up for the task</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Below is the unit getting wired up. I like to use 24 gauge silver-clad copper wire with PTFE sleeving. It's nice high quality stuff and is pretty is to route. When wiring, you have to ensure you are considering how the screen will be oriented in relation to the main PCB so the wires aren't cut too short or too long. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDJ7wp6bH67u7FoYX7lrRC5xGf9rjwGENDNithM3Zal03dOvF8QPWL1Suoto2XbKA0zHOiVf5-KwvrIT0-cgHP02go0L2d359urNT05DbDDa6ScVzCTAA27-zBg2PB92KBxDEggn8LEnbc/s1600/Atari+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Wired+up+VGA+Out.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1147" data-original-width="1600" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDJ7wp6bH67u7FoYX7lrRC5xGf9rjwGENDNithM3Zal03dOvF8QPWL1Suoto2XbKA0zHOiVf5-KwvrIT0-cgHP02go0L2d359urNT05DbDDa6ScVzCTAA27-zBg2PB92KBxDEggn8LEnbc/s640/Atari+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Wired+up+VGA+Out.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wiring up the VGA output</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The VGA output installs where the brightness potentiometer used to be (you do need to dremel out some of the plastic so it will fit). It's a nice added feature that adds value to the McWill package. HDMI would be preferable, but that would add cost and complexity which may not be welcome for many modders. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLcttTdkoI9IksbxCJMfAFt8ojJ2HAp_R6FTwchEQoTsQjQZkfsgdfbR92nmqTeNriRWXDrvN0cG0tc1QIJ7QowN5RKBpfNjn_0ZgXN_9fL8gvvrGT1JKQpmTUvYFhfpEXXRrHzkTB5XOr/s1600/Atari+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Wired+up+VGA+Out+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="795" data-original-width="1600" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLcttTdkoI9IksbxCJMfAFt8ojJ2HAp_R6FTwchEQoTsQjQZkfsgdfbR92nmqTeNriRWXDrvN0cG0tc1QIJ7QowN5RKBpfNjn_0ZgXN_9fL8gvvrGT1JKQpmTUvYFhfpEXXRrHzkTB5XOr/s640/Atari+Lynx+rebuild+McWill+Screen+Wired+up+VGA+Out+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wired up and ready to re-assemble</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
Once all that work is complete, you'll have yourself a beautifully performing Lynx system that will hopefully last another thirty years.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmnM72AGMXueIl8CAvyRr2lr7dNQV03e0xg-lPVaPoZsYmNSOZeW9f4BE4JgmO2kqJ0VeVgLhlggo55hslCeadaQyCn5qwOAFuxbDfsaRnhOx8M2HFtR4f7otB9TW16mG1u9qmXrNA2MRZ/s1600/Lynx+McWill+mod+Screen+-+Dirty+Harry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="976" data-original-width="1600" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmnM72AGMXueIl8CAvyRr2lr7dNQV03e0xg-lPVaPoZsYmNSOZeW9f4BE4JgmO2kqJ0VeVgLhlggo55hslCeadaQyCn5qwOAFuxbDfsaRnhOx8M2HFtR4f7otB9TW16mG1u9qmXrNA2MRZ/s640/Lynx+McWill+mod+Screen+-+Dirty+Harry.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The big question now... is all this worth the hassle? There are a number of us that like to play games on original hardware because emulators introduce annoyances like slowdown, sprite flickering, crashing, etc. If you want to play Lynx games on original hardware, you have to replace the voltage regulation immediately or you'll be playing Russian roulette with a valuable piece of vintage gear, and really the capacitors all need to be replaced too. If you're already going to that effort, the McWill screen is a no-brainer given the improvements... just keep in mind that if you're not sure of your solder slinger skills, get someone else to handle it. </div>
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>The Fine Print:</b> Please remember that building/modifying circuits can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself and/or your surroundings. </span><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a> </div>
HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-49745295766451024352018-10-30T17:20:00.000-04:002018-10-30T17:40:32.023-04:00Korg HA-K1 Portable Tube Amp with NuTube<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Flash back to mid-2017 and you may remember the super cool "NuHybrid" Headphone Amp that Pete Millett designed around the Korg NuTube. If you're not already familiar with the NuTube, the current model is called the 6P1, which is a thoroughly-modern, dual, very low power, directly-heated triode tube. The NuHybrid used the 6P1 as a driver tube for a desktop headphone amp with very good results.<br />
<br />
Back to October 2018, Korg has not been resting on its laurels, and has released a couple of cool new DIY designs. Both make a lot of sense given the low power requirements of the NuTube: a portable headphone amp and a guitar pedal. Some of you may say "wait a minute! the NuHybrid was sensitive to vibration, I can't imagine it bumping around in your pocket or getting stomped on during a performance". I was thinking the exact same thing, however I'm pleased to note that Korg has completely eliminated this concern in the new portable headphone amp (the HA-K1) by mounting the Nutube off the main board and using a modicum of foam to dampen things.<br />
<br />
Being the ravenous DIYer that I am, Pete was kind enough to send me an HA-K1 to play with. Included in a relatively non-descript box are the instructions in Japanese and English, several baggies with parts, the enclosure, a sticker, and a PCB which is semi-populated with SMD parts. This is similar to Elekit's portables that knock out some of the steps. I personally don't mind as I don't enjoy futzing with teeny tiny SMD resistors.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_fTavClOZDaN9ntSa33ruDu8dwRANu6aBXxQ_W-RFAwVWhKEJXr4oei5qMDk5WiJ_YAq1IT-_2-mFVcSxTQn7BXy56VtgVahVp8R1GeCVExy5LOhyphenhyphengtEhEKgto3OmcGH1XNM3BSNRoAmb/s1600/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+PCB+Bottom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="897" data-original-width="1600" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_fTavClOZDaN9ntSa33ruDu8dwRANu6aBXxQ_W-RFAwVWhKEJXr4oei5qMDk5WiJ_YAq1IT-_2-mFVcSxTQn7BXy56VtgVahVp8R1GeCVExy5LOhyphenhyphengtEhEKgto3OmcGH1XNM3BSNRoAmb/s400/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+PCB+Bottom.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Pre-populated PCB bottom</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuXXo8a9XNXO9JGmnZHZJIdJVEALnp5c-C27S-BSMCeUV2WQF6-vi7CEwZ3jRSJ4RYSOW9bM3Gzew0xpjiZpAN0ZI-u85ND4z1GSt_799VVu4hyphenhyphenOUlzTKowpVlaIBUmjc95ZaUBBUxJuYW/s1600/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+PCB+Top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="891" data-original-width="1600" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuXXo8a9XNXO9JGmnZHZJIdJVEALnp5c-C27S-BSMCeUV2WQF6-vi7CEwZ3jRSJ4RYSOW9bM3Gzew0xpjiZpAN0ZI-u85ND4z1GSt_799VVu4hyphenhyphenOUlzTKowpVlaIBUmjc95ZaUBBUxJuYW/s400/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+PCB+Top.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Pre-populated PCB top</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The case resembles an Altoids mint tin case in both size and material, which is commonly the enclosure choice for a CMoy. The top is a dark piece of translucent acrylic which has the labels for the controls printed on it. In the parts baggies are a variety of Nichicon caps, trim pots, standoffs, switches, a smaller PCB for the NuTube to mount on, and a couple of op-amps.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlIpSKmy5WnmnPxEeKDJ8tWrldm_rCCXMUjGMsF3vJVy71UxBFgBHOJ21aZcy_N9zIhG_7HCEJxMvSBCV4AoMF7vnr7sL65AG5vhqr95WvgBap3pFJCtdTCU3z6vMvIJwrbB25OErkp8v8/s1600/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Pieces.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="795" data-original-width="1600" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlIpSKmy5WnmnPxEeKDJ8tWrldm_rCCXMUjGMsF3vJVy71UxBFgBHOJ21aZcy_N9zIhG_7HCEJxMvSBCV4AoMF7vnr7sL65AG5vhqr95WvgBap3pFJCtdTCU3z6vMvIJwrbB25OErkp8v8/s400/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Pieces.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><b>The HA-K1 kit parts</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji9eprdZgpUp3zpOzMZifOqAWEcwc_zWHp0WjF2IhiwjSRmczF0O5FCE6iFVZMPnieWwYL6wXRj6W_WIXnIdqqoMe4k1jCpS3bw8g9UEKkOK4zfBtEJiLGrgxlXxr_nEF4KM9qLc-BcATo/s1600/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Enclosure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1061" data-original-width="1600" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji9eprdZgpUp3zpOzMZifOqAWEcwc_zWHp0WjF2IhiwjSRmczF0O5FCE6iFVZMPnieWwYL6wXRj6W_WIXnIdqqoMe4k1jCpS3bw8g9UEKkOK4zfBtEJiLGrgxlXxr_nEF4KM9qLc-BcATo/s400/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Enclosure.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>The tin case and acrylic top</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The instructions discuss the order in which the PCB is populated, and refer to a numbered bill of materials. There was an instance that I wasn't quite sure what the BoM was referring to e.g. "connector", but since there are so few parts to worry about it's pretty easy to just visually check the board and confirm. A couple of the parts need to be visually distinguished, like the codes on the side of the different value trim pots, and the solder eyelets are a little on the small size and close together, but there is nothing particularly difficult about the build.<br />
<br />
I would recommend having at least decent solder skills or plan to use some extra flux to ensure you don't bridge any eyelets accidentally. I also found myself using a solder sucker a little bit to tidy up the joints, but I'm more OCD than most ;) The entire build took about an hour and a half, and I like to take my time.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiom6iO_NLNXLMqtMaZvWTmXVSbjmn2sXSizZqDhNX2dZgoT1_WtKreUcG8A6_mcWtTccpjDeTdLNpB-bX75iGmsMV8cbyJl6gXvWcQWhSkIxD3KobfxSJ3R4ImuTOtVdV_GK5D2cf4hqoq/s1600/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Assembly+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="756" data-original-width="1600" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiom6iO_NLNXLMqtMaZvWTmXVSbjmn2sXSizZqDhNX2dZgoT1_WtKreUcG8A6_mcWtTccpjDeTdLNpB-bX75iGmsMV8cbyJl6gXvWcQWhSkIxD3KobfxSJ3R4ImuTOtVdV_GK5D2cf4hqoq/s400/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Assembly+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS1hhUNND_dv7UY_LVVPuFAhoeZ4qXG52lojMqPZp7lrlvsvMmNz_4Hald0zNVMUajKYMzjqf3kcSllJcaJuokYrOSyGn-Eh-5uAwZJOAG5lkuYVsjEiEcE6EW5YAyCPp7VZpEdLJHCwGz/s1600/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Assembly+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="797" data-original-width="1600" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS1hhUNND_dv7UY_LVVPuFAhoeZ4qXG52lojMqPZp7lrlvsvMmNz_4Hald0zNVMUajKYMzjqf3kcSllJcaJuokYrOSyGn-Eh-5uAwZJOAG5lkuYVsjEiEcE6EW5YAyCPp7VZpEdLJHCwGz/s400/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Assembly+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivVjxq8I8QevkOxAfe1pTrphi_ZGbRdLywsaBHesFwLiezQmEPxXiOidHqOsFAotQgdk1w9iviuv0it-EfVtgrLRNp9CdhMEurc5P58SHh_ifP38Yv3dwuJJN1aoKE8hmV0ZrcC_UFeCrL/s1600/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Assembly+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="801" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivVjxq8I8QevkOxAfe1pTrphi_ZGbRdLywsaBHesFwLiezQmEPxXiOidHqOsFAotQgdk1w9iviuv0it-EfVtgrLRNp9CdhMEurc5P58SHh_ifP38Yv3dwuJJN1aoKE8hmV0ZrcC_UFeCrL/s400/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Assembly+3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnaeRw8gWxYseq6RVnsBIsa0lPlXYRCQrMsCjppvfsCtUYnvAQrm4kxIaPZ3KiVw96i7BfufiPbeL8Tky-sFMvRMj-WMmIKIqWMIkUbWE7sz4Q5__-ReypuF7OcZ244Q2XF3UP7Qf1BFxG/s1600/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Assembly+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="839" data-original-width="1600" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnaeRw8gWxYseq6RVnsBIsa0lPlXYRCQrMsCjppvfsCtUYnvAQrm4kxIaPZ3KiVw96i7BfufiPbeL8Tky-sFMvRMj-WMmIKIqWMIkUbWE7sz4Q5__-ReypuF7OcZ244Q2XF3UP7Qf1BFxG/s400/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Assembly+4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZVs0Kuzl2fPR_JZ4WYKz8_OYM1QgHWfjQ6xDUhKf1YZsr8wtEWv4Rr-ftkvN8cQothWxLiAUM-cHvKCR3X6m_5JcMX3pkJsJmp21ycFY9ftzLPNrS6iQmsYPcr7UWaLgF0DA0ldNnib0/s1600/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Assembly+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="836" data-original-width="1600" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZVs0Kuzl2fPR_JZ4WYKz8_OYM1QgHWfjQ6xDUhKf1YZsr8wtEWv4Rr-ftkvN8cQothWxLiAUM-cHvKCR3X6m_5JcMX3pkJsJmp21ycFY9ftzLPNrS6iQmsYPcr7UWaLgF0DA0ldNnib0/s400/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Assembly+5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I also needed to whip up a short mini to mini cable as surprisingly I did not have a spare.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzDLL-dWmkPm_wNZ2yPsbJs7HAwtMZq9xZT3CB6rB7u1yNo40rnq7riRNMhrDnFhjOAI2JblzqbQvxZ1vyA0sbv5ct3ECGk33M0SAGz15LQpb2uuqzUsJ7C1i4LzmCbJbRXNXo_53UbSAl/s1600/Short+35mm+mini+to+mini+connector+audio+cable+custom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="894" data-original-width="1600" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzDLL-dWmkPm_wNZ2yPsbJs7HAwtMZq9xZT3CB6rB7u1yNo40rnq7riRNMhrDnFhjOAI2JblzqbQvxZ1vyA0sbv5ct3ECGk33M0SAGz15LQpb2uuqzUsJ7C1i4LzmCbJbRXNXo_53UbSAl/s400/Short+35mm+mini+to+mini+connector+audio+cable+custom.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>3.5mm mini to mini cable </b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Once the build is complete, there are a host of fun little things to tweak like the internal gain, the load on the anodes, a bass boost switch, and choosing which op-amp you prefer. I found that I liked the load on the anode a little over halfway and the volume a little under halfway turned. I tried both op amps, liking the basic JRC for alternative rock with more electric guitars (overdriven guitar sounds more raw) and the Muses 01 for the indie rock I prefer which is more electronic and vocal based (smoother, more balanced presentation). The bass boost I liked better for poorly recorded rock that lacked body, but was a little aggressive with already bassy music.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYUb8CXexr9kHbDO12AOIXydD3ZYDBBmr1kAPF8dii75b1m6qKLQeylTrIt7KMttSfSJmBY3bAcPKNJfKCv4YEeVQpTRwhTOtEO6NIAkGcW_64fgDdEOBhgPyyNcLrmYCJxWArxqx4_4c/s1600/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Bottom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="875" data-original-width="1600" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYUb8CXexr9kHbDO12AOIXydD3ZYDBBmr1kAPF8dii75b1m6qKLQeylTrIt7KMttSfSJmBY3bAcPKNJfKCv4YEeVQpTRwhTOtEO6NIAkGcW_64fgDdEOBhgPyyNcLrmYCJxWArxqx4_4c/s400/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Bottom.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Bottom of amp with stick-on footers</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDrRtCPLtO4HgexPWlwahxdxP-jDn5jtRQxDI4sKYfXZALIZ3c-rvSYQiSKxjuUKwfoJtFRY0F7JJqbueQFJtYq-jy2ybUnk7DHsCR-nbSSQbcjqyV3BfuSKivXbwXLn4yQzvRxdJhH-Of/s1600/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Unit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1087" data-original-width="1600" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDrRtCPLtO4HgexPWlwahxdxP-jDn5jtRQxDI4sKYfXZALIZ3c-rvSYQiSKxjuUKwfoJtFRY0F7JJqbueQFJtYq-jy2ybUnk7DHsCR-nbSSQbcjqyV3BfuSKivXbwXLn4yQzvRxdJhH-Of/s400/Korg+HA-K1+Nu+Tekt+Tube+Amp+Kit+Unit.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Top of completed unit</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
So bottom line, is this piece of kit worth your time? If you enjoy tube sound and want it on the go, I'd say definitely. Overall the sound is very full and engaging, warm, dynamic and non fatiguing, just the way I like it. It's a little more lush than amps like the Chord Mojo and iFi xDSD. It is also probably the lowest cost portable tube amp on the market that is properly implemented and doesn't suffer from any microphonics what-so-ever.<br />
<br />
If Korg releases a future (or alternative) model, I'd like to see a built in USB DAC so we can bypass the phone's internal amp, but for the price and the sound, it's a good value.<br />
<br />
<b>Pros</b><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Fantastic sound, warm and engaging</li>
<li>Nice portable size and attractive case</li>
<li>Good quality internal parts</li>
<li>Sound is highly configurable to user taste</li>
<li>Well-designed PCB screen print eliminates confusion</li>
<li>Quick and easy to build</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<b>Cons</b><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>No built-in DAC model yet</li>
<li>Requires at least decent soldering skills</li>
<li>Bass boost adjustment requires opening amp</li>
<li>Tin case prone to dings</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
I'm of the understanding that the only American distributor at the moment is Pete Millett, and they are available via <a href="https://www.ebay.com/str/nutubeusstore" target="_blank">this eBay page</a>. For full disclosure, I have no business affiliation with Korg or Pete Millett. The review sample was provided to me for evaluation / review purposes.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>The Fine Print:</b> Please remember that building/modifying circuits can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself and/or your surroundings. </span><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a> </div>
HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-45178525026776075282018-09-28T14:06:00.002-04:002022-04-15T16:10:05.176-04:00High-End Headphone Buyer's Guide<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Looking for sale or to save a few bucks on audiophile headphones? Whether you’re just getting into personal hifi listening or you’ve been the hobby for a while, you’ve likely noticed that it can get expensive, quick. Over the past several years, we’ve seen a huge uptick in manufacturers retail prices, with many headphones stretching into the several thousand-dollar price range. From the $55,000 <a href="https://gizmodo.com/we-listened-to-sennheisers-absurd-55-000-orpheus-headp-1741947676" target="_blank">Sennheiser Orpheus</a> to the $18,000 HiFiMan Shangri-La, prices can be staggering.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg68ISPEUku2prJozJArgH4YadJNY2u8-FOorfXnKZ7xzOz9h0L6fgWA5H5gjeVE0a-iUHhDcy4mxoZnK0LOQ9Um3I4eJ3soqXghFsXYU5YCPQk0B-MeUB1ndPcZALZ6KlS0Pep46FeYMlf/s1600/Sennheiser+Orpheus.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg68ISPEUku2prJozJArgH4YadJNY2u8-FOorfXnKZ7xzOz9h0L6fgWA5H5gjeVE0a-iUHhDcy4mxoZnK0LOQ9Um3I4eJ3soqXghFsXYU5YCPQk0B-MeUB1ndPcZALZ6KlS0Pep46FeYMlf/s320/Sennheiser+Orpheus.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Sennheiser Orpheus. I'll take two please! :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Even at real-world prices From the cans to amplifiers to cables to pads, everything will put a dent in the ‘ol wallet. As such, I wanted to put together some tips and tricks I've learned over the years to ensure you are getting the best sound for the money and don’t end up taking a bath because you end up with a new set of cans you don’t like.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Get to a Local Meet or Show</span></b><br />
One great way to save money is not buying headphones that don’t fit your tastes. The best way to audition headphones before you buy them is at a meet, whether it be HeadFi gathering, or a local audio show. Many audio shows now have rooms for high end headphone listening (this wasn’t commonplace 10+ years ago), so you can quickly sample a number of different headphones quickly without someone trying desperately to sell you something for a commission. Auditioning headphones saves a lot of time, cost and effort versus buying blindly or based on online reviews. Everyone has different ears and different preferences, and you should trust your own ears when it comes to the sound you prefer. Reviews have their place, but one person’s “high-end sparkle” is another person’s “bright and sibilant”.<br />
<br />
Find local HeadFi meets <a href="https://www.head-fi.org/forums/local-regional-head-fi-meets-parties-get-togethers.24/" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWl2AR88GWkEXFL_83cwqS-SOLqIImEzAqujGdz3iwl4lWk_AHSOM_9z1UKxQO-mZwurt1uW_4I3K7whaH8oW9Z9QMwSjVyVGFHKaQEki8HwGjgd_PHU_ygV2hETKKJGyVh61vBczWpdIg/s1600/Head-Fest+2007.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="450" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWl2AR88GWkEXFL_83cwqS-SOLqIImEzAqujGdz3iwl4lWk_AHSOM_9z1UKxQO-mZwurt1uW_4I3K7whaH8oW9Z9QMwSjVyVGFHKaQEki8HwGjgd_PHU_ygV2hETKKJGyVh61vBczWpdIg/s320/Head-Fest+2007.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A photo of Head-Fest from <a href="http://stereophile.com/">Stereophile.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Black Friday / Cyber Monday </span></b><br />
While there are a lot of over-hyped sales on BF/CM, it’s often the best time to purchase high-end headphones. Manufacturers like <a href="https://www.audeze.com/" target="_blank">Audeze</a> and <a href="http://hifiman.com/" target="_blank">HiFiMan</a> have incredible deals directly on their site where you can save up to 50% in some cases. Just remember to watch the sites carefully and refresh often, as they sell out quick. Also be sure to keep an eye on <a href="http://www.buydig.com/" target="_blank">BuyDig</a>, <a href="https://www.adorama.com/" target="_blank">Adorama</a>, <a href="https://www.monoprice.com/" target="_blank">Monoprice</a> and Amazon, as they often have great deals on brands like Fostex, HiFiMan, Audeze, iFi Audio, Beyerdynamic, Sennheiser and others.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY80SK4375XpvcFGneIT6hZWWNV9_f20WKowYKyPNeRr7lf5JKgLFmxm0zczEO5vHgY0M3pv4pLW-7vV9K1sflp-DMRjYzeKwXoq8XB76zJHVg4Ya9seqxfYSaeim01yKp9DWy6gcDFhTu/s1600/Audeze-Black+Friday+Deals.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="323" data-original-width="620" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY80SK4375XpvcFGneIT6hZWWNV9_f20WKowYKyPNeRr7lf5JKgLFmxm0zczEO5vHgY0M3pv4pLW-7vV9K1sflp-DMRjYzeKwXoq8XB76zJHVg4Ya9seqxfYSaeim01yKp9DWy6gcDFhTu/s320/Audeze-Black+Friday+Deals.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keep a close eye on Audeze.com near Black Friday</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Slickdeals</span></b><br />
Slickdeals is a great place to find deals on videogames, electronics, clothing, food, you name it. The curators there do a great job of finding headphone deals, generally from <a href="https://www.buydig.com/" target="_blank">BuyDig</a>, <a href="https://www.adorama.com/" target="_blank">Adorama</a>, <a href="http://www.newegg.com/" target="_blank">Newegg</a>, <a href="https://www.monoprice.com/" target="_blank">Monoprice</a>, and the manufacturer’s websites. Simply run a search for “headphones” at the top of the page and sort by your budget on the left to see the deals listed in chronological order.<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">HeadFi Deals Page</span></b><br />
Having a subscription to the HeadFi <a href="https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the-deals-discussion-thread-read-the-first-post.692119/" target="_blank">Deals Page</a> is a great way to get email notifications when there is a deal. I try to participate there regularly and there are many others monitoring email blasts from various manufacturers. Generally there are several updates daily.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a><br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">For Sale in the Forums</span></b><br />
Buying headphones new for full price is a great way to lose money. Depending on the headphone brand, model, condition, availability and other factors, a used headphone will generally sell for 50-80% of its value. If it’s barely used with accessories and proof of purchase, this is on the higher end, and if it’s a couple of years old in very good to excellent condition and the manufacturer is more prone to running promotions on the product, 50% is pretty common. Some headphones, like MrSpeakers, hold their value better as the manufacturer doesn’t run heavy product sales/promotions, whereas headphones like Audeze or HiFiMan, which are often discounted, don’t hold their value as well.<br />
<br />
Thus, if you anticipate selling your headphones after a couple of years of ownership to upgrade / side-step, etc., I encourage you to purchase used on the forums. That way the difference between your buying and selling price will be far less than if you purchased new. Active headphone communities include HeadFi, Head-Case, Super Best Audio Friends, and others. A good way to search others is HiFi Shark. Each forum has it's own rules (and culture), so it's important to review these before posting anything for sale.<br />
<br />
<i><u>Please note</u> that you must use your best judgment when purchasing on the forums, ensure the seller has a clean history and good feedback, don't ever use "Paypal Gift", and you can request the seller take a new photo of the item being sold with their screen name in it to ensure they actually have it in their possession. Using a credit card via Paypal or other method offers you protection from the credit card company if you do not receive the item or it is not as described. My personal experiences with Paypal buyer protection have been poor, so using a credit card provides an adequate layer of security. </i><br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">MassDrop</span></b><br />
If you plan on purchasing a new headphone and holding on to it, <a href="https://www.massdrop.com/" target="_blank">MassDrop</a> has some great deals on headphones that are only available through the platform. Interesting offerings like the <a href="https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-focal-elex-headphones" target="_blank">Focal Elex</a> (a cross between the Elear and Clear), the <a href="https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-sennheiser-hd6xx" target="_blank">Sennheiser HD6XX</a> (a rebadged HD650) and <a href="https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-sennheiser-hd-58x-jubilee-headphones" target="_blank">HD58X Jubilee</a>, the <a href="https://www.massdrop.com/buy/akg-k7xx-massdrop-first-edition-headphones" target="_blank">AKG K7XX</a>, the HiFiMan HE-4XX, the <a href="https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-hifiman-he4xx-planar-magnetic-headphones" target="_blank">Fostex TH-X00</a>, the <a href="https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-koss-porta-pro-x-headphones" target="_blank">Koss Porta Pro X</a>, <a href="https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-fostex-t-x0-planar-magnetic-headphones" target="_blank">Fostex T-X0</a>, and many others have been released that are a tremendous value. Every headphone that I have tried provides incredible bang for the buck in terms of sound quality for the dollar compared to normal headphones being offered at street prices or MSRP. I actually picked up the HD6XX recently and did a <a href="http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2018/07/cable-and-mods-for-sennheiser-massdrop.html" target="_blank">few tweaks</a>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvsuw6_KWHiAB3K54pj4kugFKZ1HOWnMdEEOEHglSdgAL8gDo-TNWhcPTU8CqjpUqdwkgd9egwxg8qM_uddTEcP0KiXXmKRKmIRTWnKtAjysVpbV_8_yULSKg5W1xY8XbruVvfp-iWbuYG/s1600/Headphone+Deals+Sale+Massdrop+Sennheiser+HD6XX.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="315" data-original-width="473" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvsuw6_KWHiAB3K54pj4kugFKZ1HOWnMdEEOEHglSdgAL8gDo-TNWhcPTU8CqjpUqdwkgd9egwxg8qM_uddTEcP0KiXXmKRKmIRTWnKtAjysVpbV_8_yULSKg5W1xY8XbruVvfp-iWbuYG/s320/Headphone+Deals+Sale+Massdrop+Sennheiser+HD6XX.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Sennheiser x Massdrop HD6XX is a screamin' good deal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
If you want an even higher value and don’t mind buying used or B-stock, getting Massdrop headphones used via forum or via eBay resellers (use a 15% Ebay coupon if available) probably represents one of the best headphone values on the market today.<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Ebay 15% Off Coupons</span></b><br />
I’m not sure how long <a href="http://www.ebay.com/" target="_blank">eBay</a> will be offering these 15% off coupons, but they’re a real boon for anyone planning a larger purchase for a pair of headphones, amps, etc. With a max discount typically at $100, it’s a great way to trim down the price of new, used or b-stock gear. If you know a 15% off coupon is coming, sometimes it pays off to make the seller an offer lower than their Buy It Now price, then once the offer or counter-offer is accepted, stack the coupon on top. Just make sure to get the timing right.<br />
<br />
Before you purchase any used gear, be sure to check the Forums and/or <a href="https://www.hifishark.com/" target="_blank">HiFi Shark</a>. Sometimes gear costs less on the forums even after the eBay 15% off, as sellers have to build the fees into their asking price.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b>EDIT 4-15-22 :</b> <i>They stopped offering these. Doh! </i><br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Email Subscriptions</span></b><br />
Many retailers have strict reseller agreements that don’t allow them to publish prices for gear under the MSRP unless there is a company approved promotion. While this is generally always true on retailer websites, often times you’ll see lower prices via email blasts as it’s a limited distribution and the retailer has less of a chance to have their hand slapped. So go ahead and get on that spam list if you want to ensure you’re getting the best prices. Aside from stores, Audiogon sends out a few deal emails here and there. <br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Call on the Phone</span></b><br />
Most of the gear in the audio industry that is being resold by secondary retailers has a heavy markup. If a headphone costs $999 on a retailer’s website, the cost to the retailer was probably $500-600. Granted the retailers have many expenses including personnel and numerous business costs, but there is often times a little bit of wiggle room if you give a call. Requesting 10% off generally works and the salesperson will be happy to get the commission.<br />
<br />
This doesn’t work as well for direct sellers as the price-to-cost ratio is a little different (there’s likely less markup).<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Old Favorites</span></b><br />
While they may not be the flavor of the month on the headphone forums or the featured article in <a href="http://www.theabsolutesound.com/" target="_blank">The Absolute Sound</a>, there are some older headphones that represent great values. Currently, because of all the competition in the space, these headphones are even cheaper than they were years ago. Check out old favorites like the Beyerdynamic DT770, DT880, DT990, as well as the AKG 240S. Often sites like Buydig have these for sale dirt cheap and they're built to last many years. Some people even prefer them to the new models like the 1770 and 1990 that have been retuned. <br />
<br />
<br />
That about wraps it up. These are little tips I've learned over the past 15 or so years I've been in the hobby, so I hope it helps a couple of you. I’m sure I've missed a few things, so please feel free to add them in the comments.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></div>
HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2663163979779760684.post-63306188562980825012018-08-17T15:22:00.002-04:002018-12-18T14:59:49.251-05:00Octal OTL DIY Tube Headphone Amp<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Another day, another headphone amp :) One of my life's pleasures is digging around on eBay for exciting finds, whether it be obscure vintage tube equipment or interesting/useful PCBs. This article covers the latter, a very <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-PCB-Board-OTL-Tube-Headphone-Amp-Aikido-White-Cathode-Follower-6SN7-6BX7/132701966300?hash=item1ee5a74fdc%3Ag%3AV4gAAOSwdpxUXn2Z" target="_blank">nicely made PCB</a> which features an octal (8-pin) tube OTL headphone amp circuit. Specifically, this is an Aikido input with a White Cathode Follower output, based on John Broskie's design. The circuit is designed to power most headphones, including those with a 32 ohm impedance. This is relatively uncommon with OTL headphone amps, which usually get along best with headphones ~300 ohms.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ_s6ubp9wbcufcp3ysE6PcntfXQVD6yX2UTxP5rKGXdQ0divZLwmyYXP_zcbuXuq5cQYf7mbJBVM89RylNjzrHCwHOnCx4tF5jGLT2sG8pxiAuw6KsyRUY8QFx5ZktT5LF1yZATejzz6m/s1600/OTL+Tube+Amp+PCB+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="942" data-original-width="1600" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ_s6ubp9wbcufcp3ysE6PcntfXQVD6yX2UTxP5rKGXdQ0divZLwmyYXP_zcbuXuq5cQYf7mbJBVM89RylNjzrHCwHOnCx4tF5jGLT2sG8pxiAuw6KsyRUY8QFx5ZktT5LF1yZATejzz6m/s400/OTL+Tube+Amp+PCB+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top and Bottom of PCB</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
The tube compliment is a pair of 6BX7 or 6BL7 output tubes, a pair of 6SN7 input tubes, and a 5AR4 rectifier... because tube rectifiers are fashionably old school. Using all these tubes requires a hefty transformer, the 8.6lb.Hammond 272JX, which has a 5V, 6.3V and 600V secondary outputs. Yes, 600V, so this is not an amp for beginners. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
One can utilize the 6BX7 or 6BL7 tubes by switching two pairs of jumpers on the board, or the circuit can be configured to only work with one of the two tubes, but you can select between 32 and 300 ohm outputs using the jumpers. I personally chose the 6BL7 tubes and two different impedance outputs. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
One nice thing is that getting pairs of vintage 6BX7 / 6BL7 tubes is pretty reasonable ... $25-30 a pair for many different brands and vintages. Same for the 6SN7. You can get the GTB variants which are built to a slightly higher spec. For the 5AR4 you'd probably want to get new construction from Sovtek or similar. Guitar center is a good source. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
All the stuff on the <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-PCB-Board-OTL-Tube-Headphone-Amp-Aikido-White-Cathode-Follower-6SN7-6BX7/132701966300?hash=item1ee5a74fdc%3Ag%3AV4gAAOSwdpxUXn2Z" target="_blank">BOM</a> is of great quality: WIMA film caps, Vishay resistors, Nichicon electrolytics... all the good stuff. I ended up digging around the workroom to see what I had first... mostly Kiwame and carbon comp resistors, hand matched as carbon comp values can vary by 10% or more. Film caps are compact Panasonics. For the power resistors I think I went with Koa Speers as the Vishays were oddly overpriced on Mouser.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG4DisrxbauK-2Q3z4g3vLgiv6WTuO6Elvbur8s1FHUdHUikMGvjnqLgsK-B3611G1-hAqlt-aQabXRMWSECCUPaZjQhwVQPL60SkEF1sVpQh_8FN6SFG4TsbDReDRS5O2BL6yJmt7q8yL/s1600/DIY+Tube+OTL+Headphone+Amp+PCB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1484" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG4DisrxbauK-2Q3z4g3vLgiv6WTuO6Elvbur8s1FHUdHUikMGvjnqLgsK-B3611G1-hAqlt-aQabXRMWSECCUPaZjQhwVQPL60SkEF1sVpQh_8FN6SFG4TsbDReDRS5O2BL6yJmt7q8yL/s320/DIY+Tube+OTL+Headphone+Amp+PCB.jpg" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PCB populated with the smaller components</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYrnnq0kFbu3DGyVrKgUbIOfA3_XKxeE4nOJsTeWR22H6IpKovo9bDbV-8W3XZpT_jIuqfVk5lksb8ZhXRFMRuTA_93yGxD0P6AssMb1cuJPwYAvZ8O-Iw4b9a_wvrCsH7C06yuXtN6y-5/s1600/DIY+Tube+OTL+Headphone+Amp+PCB+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1517" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYrnnq0kFbu3DGyVrKgUbIOfA3_XKxeE4nOJsTeWR22H6IpKovo9bDbV-8W3XZpT_jIuqfVk5lksb8ZhXRFMRuTA_93yGxD0P6AssMb1cuJPwYAvZ8O-Iw4b9a_wvrCsH7C06yuXtN6y-5/s320/DIY+Tube+OTL+Headphone+Amp+PCB+3.jpg" width="303" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ceramic tube sockets soldered in place</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div>
For the larger film caps, I wanted to incorporate some of the EVO oil Mundorfs. The sizing is tough, as the Mundorfs are fairly compact, but wide, and the chassis is about 3" tall, so some unique fitting was required. As most of the area underneath the caps on the circuit board doesn't have any traces running through it, I used a cutting disc and Dremeled away the area on each side... this would give an extra 1/4" to 1/2" height lost from the PCB and standoffs for extra clearance. I drilled a hole on each side of the PCB as well so a zip tie could hold each cap in place. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The chassis I selected is from IAG DIY Tube Audio Products. He lists his chassis on <a href="https://www.ebay.com/str/IAG-DIY-tube-audio-products" target="_blank">ebay</a> and on his <a href="http://www.iagaudio.com/" target="_blank">website</a>. Hand-made in the USA and built like a tank. The chassis gauge is relatively thick, but aluminum so easy to work with. I chose to cover up the pretty polished aluminum with painters tape to try and prevent any scratches.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2qWpeNtlh67pofhRYYGzipem9s6siydujGbQQOcMRzm-hPaJVGNmquKeOSaQlJMNRCvhRWqL9L0zVYWy_-yTqkYo6Z_mPqTPeS_XNhvyvsCGQEmW41ZQP3KLTVzXr5knOt4FVkL4pv-sd/s1600/DIY+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Chassis+Drilling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="954" data-original-width="1600" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2qWpeNtlh67pofhRYYGzipem9s6siydujGbQQOcMRzm-hPaJVGNmquKeOSaQlJMNRCvhRWqL9L0zVYWy_-yTqkYo6Z_mPqTPeS_XNhvyvsCGQEmW41ZQP3KLTVzXr5knOt4FVkL4pv-sd/s400/DIY+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Chassis+Drilling.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using a step drill bit to make holes in chassis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3xPWf5xMcT79mZ0jnqYNK9XfjxlBMgB6Z795WtWVbG-xpPE1TLFVA3h_buF7_mw-w5DNMi-IZUE1a2SenBrPR7uk3GAQACYrL8jzPlrIQbWpoPKQfGiJLlrn3il0X08PGYEvXN_LRurwU/s1600/DIY+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Chassis+Greenlee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1187" data-original-width="1600" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3xPWf5xMcT79mZ0jnqYNK9XfjxlBMgB6Z795WtWVbG-xpPE1TLFVA3h_buF7_mw-w5DNMi-IZUE1a2SenBrPR7uk3GAQACYrL8jzPlrIQbWpoPKQfGiJLlrn3il0X08PGYEvXN_LRurwU/s400/DIY+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Chassis+Greenlee.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using a Greelee punch to make the holes for the headphone outputs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtXuaf5y1j84n_EdVORv1c5sqLFO3CI_az2okaj0t69cEso1wQxeDSDT0cMfOGN785sqvIWW4W_nKJdUEP07K8UOvvshH4OOih_PR8tGdKhgVkLwLDxTEs2ccH-osJqtpEOs9SZ7cdRVM/s1600/DIY+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Chassis+IEC+inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="954" data-original-width="1600" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtXuaf5y1j84n_EdVORv1c5sqLFO3CI_az2okaj0t69cEso1wQxeDSDT0cMfOGN785sqvIWW4W_nKJdUEP07K8UOvvshH4OOih_PR8tGdKhgVkLwLDxTEs2ccH-osJqtpEOs9SZ7cdRVM/s400/DIY+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Chassis+IEC+inlet.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dremelled out area for IEC power inlet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I accidentally inverted the drawing when punching the holes, so we have an extra hole here. No big deal, it can be covered with a 1 1/8" Hillman hole cover.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ffGcCiodIlvMh7TEz77X-mOsfMbTIIg5BOIYUlewep2HyO0K3NoaYbfyvttQKo5y32ohRSFi6K1bd3NpjOYTmnVd5HpYbxGRtD0HXGCk7Dxd7-7xTmhRSwynPfS9cXxOYEysiz9NZA8F/s1600/DIY+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Chassis+Parts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1572" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ffGcCiodIlvMh7TEz77X-mOsfMbTIIg5BOIYUlewep2HyO0K3NoaYbfyvttQKo5y32ohRSFi6K1bd3NpjOYTmnVd5HpYbxGRtD0HXGCk7Dxd7-7xTmhRSwynPfS9cXxOYEysiz9NZA8F/s400/DIY+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Chassis+Parts.jpg" width="392" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior of the chassis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br />
The populated PCB slips right in place. There aren't too many wire connections needed, just the transformers, pot controlled RCA input, and headphone output. Shielded Cardas 2 x 21.5 was used for the input and output (as they no longer make the 2 x 24 for some reason). I also wired up a pilot light to the 6.3V heater. The Hammond comes with a 115V and 125V primary. Typically you use the one that closest matches your house's voltage. As mine is 120V on the dot, I used the 125V as it didn't really matter. You dial in the voltage via the two adjustable resistors inside anyway.<br />
<br />
When adjusting the 300V secondary, I noticed R24 was dissipating a bit too much heat and starting to smoke. Per the seller, R24 has been changed to 22K, so I went ahead and swapped that out.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0AxUDJrOaEBEI33yhFbI3eLEu3q-6mEsHbNYKnFaBgIUoAG-2k8vvvlb4TkzZ-uRlecO16VONCJh-hAFutWqPkI-IahkhoT3U9XdS3SokBNJyE4FneLlj_PYc0FJ0zlqHz_e4N8Hkxm6n/s1600/DIY+Tube+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Interior+Mundorf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1060" data-original-width="1600" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0AxUDJrOaEBEI33yhFbI3eLEu3q-6mEsHbNYKnFaBgIUoAG-2k8vvvlb4TkzZ-uRlecO16VONCJh-hAFutWqPkI-IahkhoT3U9XdS3SokBNJyE4FneLlj_PYc0FJ0zlqHz_e4N8Hkxm6n/s640/DIY+Tube+OTL+Headphone+Amp+Interior+Mundorf.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ignore the power wiring in this image, the ground is isolated on the board and is wired differently</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
By default for a tube amp, I wired in a filtered IEC outlet, however these are incompatible with this design as there is a ground isolation circuit built in. Once everything was corrected, I ensured the secondaries were dialed in correctly, but was getting a high DC offset. Chatting with the designer, he suggested just loading the circuit with 32 ohms on each channel. Upon measuring this, all was well. The unit started up without any issue and sounds excellent.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjnmBDvgE1CWBCe84makERVyQrSYHkAPyd2xiJkk0xmes8njYJNS17kRKutxPCt3NqccTSX_HxRfTTkIub6EDKAAyOltKtup3lU3nI2JCqzo3Rup-nqAULomXdbrUp9-KJionOl3843gwn/s1600/Aikido+Octal+OTL+Tube+Headphone+Amp+High+Voltage+Rear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1086" data-original-width="1600" height="433" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjnmBDvgE1CWBCe84makERVyQrSYHkAPyd2xiJkk0xmes8njYJNS17kRKutxPCt3NqccTSX_HxRfTTkIub6EDKAAyOltKtup3lU3nI2JCqzo3Rup-nqAULomXdbrUp9-KJionOl3843gwn/s640/Aikido+Octal+OTL+Tube+Headphone+Amp+High+Voltage+Rear.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed headphone amp rear</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I had a nice little brass tag made for the nameless amp, simply calling it "High Voltage OTL Aikido Octal" as the seller's eBay name is HVforless and it employs an Aikido circuit. The front features a 4 pin XLR for convenience with a shorted left and right ground.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxNhZDbD-Ac8VvwbeWsdF0uVYgI5JwbfezO03WGQi7Tsi15hxtdqXhyphenhyphenKUIpvUuZB14qFSnPGrHCwGdcJycl06gn3kUDaSkNtP7_EusA-ZvWglAEf8i3ojekhhbv_Lusiq6xYoi-I4EQy8Q/s1600/Aikido+Octal+OTL+Tube+Headphone+Amp+High+Voltage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1099" data-original-width="1600" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxNhZDbD-Ac8VvwbeWsdF0uVYgI5JwbfezO03WGQi7Tsi15hxtdqXhyphenhyphenKUIpvUuZB14qFSnPGrHCwGdcJycl06gn3kUDaSkNtP7_EusA-ZvWglAEf8i3ojekhhbv_Lusiq6xYoi-I4EQy8Q/s640/Aikido+Octal+OTL+Tube+Headphone+Amp+High+Voltage.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed headphone amp front</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
You can get vintage driver tubes for this amp on the cheap, so that's another nice bonus.</div>
<div>
<div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Please remember that building/modifying circuits can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. Many electronics contain high voltages that can kill, and mods, if performed improperly, can be a fire hazard. </span></div>
</div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" target="_blank"><br /></a></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.zynsonix.com/" style="text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPWvqWB42GC9qp13bepWmp-_Rcq9lRw5YQeN3AeiD43i6HsetO52xdedU5R8poLGEMCXakl7XRdgdjbMUb45F3CQAm14b8R1JESzVPTuw_Ne5v2kSDX3jGMsYxxQ-b-jAvNEY_W8yEq3Z/s1600/Listening+Finest+Ad+PNG.png" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
HiGHFLYiN9 @ Zynsonixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07267488633313702661noreply@blogger.com3