DIYTube Get Set Go 300B Headphone Amp

It's been a little while since the last post, and there's a good reason for that; I've been gathering parts for a very special DIYTube Get Set Go made specifically for the Audeze LCD-2 headphones. The Get Set Go is a single-ended triode design made first-and-foremost for high-sensitivity speakers that only need a few watts to fill a room with sound, such as the Planet 10 Audio Frugel Horn. I did have the fortune to build the Get Set Go for speakers previously and was impressed with the overall tonal character and quality of the sound.

The Get Set Go Board from DIYTube

You may be wondering why someone would be using a speaker amp for a pair of headphones. A typical headphone amplifier will output relatively a small amount of power compared to the speaker amplifiers (in small fractions of a watt measured in milliwatts). The Audeze, as well as certain other planar magnetic headphones like the HiFiMan, really benefit from some added wattage to sound their best as they aren't the most sensitive drivers. Hense, using a low-powered speaker amplifier makes sense, but there are some changes that are necessary.

The biggest change is the output impedance. While speakers are typically 4, 8 or 16 ohm, headphones often range between 32 and 600 ohm. The Audeze headphones that the amplifier is being made for are 50 ohm (although I have also seen them listed as 60 ohm). Since 50 ohm single-ended output transformers don't really exist on the market, you can either have one custom wound, or try and find something that would have an equivalent turn ratio. There's a handy calculator that Shannon of DIYTube recommended that will give the equivalent turn ratio for this purpose. A 3.5K / 50 ohm output transformer would have a turns ratio of 0.12, or 8.367:1. Gery at Transcendar offers a 1.6K / 16 ohm single-ended transformer, the TT-023-OT, which is a 10:1 ratio and close enough for our purposes. Per Shannon, The reflected load would be a touch more linear and lost max output would be minimal.

Secondly, learned from previous experiences like with the Millet Jonokuchi, and to a much lesser extent, the ECP Audio Torpedo, headphone amplifiers do not like their output transformers to be close to the power transformer. When they are too close in proximity, there is something called flux interaction when the magnetic waves interfere with one-another and cause an audible hum with certain headphones. So not only will the output transformers be moved to the opposite side of the chassis, but rather than using an EI transformer for power, a toroid will be used instead as they create much less of a magnetic field. Antec is one of the few manufacturers out there that builds certain toroids specifically for tube amplifiers. The Antec AS-2T300 would be a good substitute for the PA774 with a bit higher ratings.

So other than the transformer choices and their position, this build will be fairly similar to the previous Get Set Go. To make things a little different, 300B tubes will be used rather than 6B4Gs. Also Mundorf Silver Oil capacitors will be taking the place of the Jupiter wax paper caps. The Mundorfs should be a little more detailed, which the Audeze can benefit from with their warmer/darker presentation.

The first action-item on the list was the chassis. I always like to create a virtual mock-up of the chassis layout to see different set-ups and settle on what I feel will work the best. Note that in this layout, the output transformers are distanced from the power toroid and chokes.

Virtual Chassis Layout

Once this is settled, I forwarded the dimensions over to Keith (ebay seller po1019) to fabricate the chassis. The virtual layout is then used as a guide to lay out the parts, take measurements and make markings, and ultimately start drilling / cutting away. After prepping a number of aluminum and steel chassis, I have a small collection of very handy Greenlee punches, which are ideal for making clean holes for tubes and sockets. The metal area (which will be behind the little red tab on the Neutrik locking plug) to release the headphone plug was recessed a bit by sanding using a Dremel and by hand for adequate clearance.

The prepped aluminum chassis

I decided that this chassis would have a more unique and artistic finish. Something more worn and rustic looking. I was actually inspired when I was scrapping off the dark grease on an old baking sheet. This finish starts with some black engine enamel that is then sanded and scrapped by hand minutes after spraying. It produces and interesting texture in my humble opinion.

Textured Bottom Plate

Texture Detail

The texture is achieved by hand using worn out sandpaper at different times of paint dryness, along with the sharp point of a scissor to get the longer lines. Once the texture was where I wanted it, I gave the chassis two coats of clear satin enamel. The parts can now be dropped in place. I began with the smaller pieces, including the headphone sockets, which were flush mounted and secured with black oxide screws. The switch, pilot light, RCAs, binding posts, IEC, Teflon 300B sockets and hole grommets were all installed next.

Part installation on the chassis

Next comes the fun part, the population of the PCB. Varying from the BoM, we have Elma Silmic II caps, Nichicon FineGold caps, Kiwame and Mills resistors and Mundorf Silver/Oil Caps. Slight changes to the circuit includes the Wima 0.1uF snubber cap and a pair of Solen 630V 5.6uF bypass caps in the power section.

The populated Get Set Go Board

On the bottom of the board, at Shannon's suggestion, we have a few of the Mills power resistors to help distribute the heat a little better. 

Bottom of the board

Now comes the long process of preparing the wood side panels. I decided on an antique silver leaf finish for these pieces. Since there is no off-the-shelf option for antique silver leaf that was readily available, I'm using some Speedball brand silver leaf pieces and some Old World Art brand leafing and antiquing materials.

Leafing Materials

Below are the wood side panels for the chassis before any prep.

Wood Chassis Panels

The first step in the antique leafing process is a red basecoat. This is typically used with a gold foil, so we'll see how it performs with silver. Below is the wood with the basecoat applied.

Red antique basecoat

 After two basecoats and a layer of adhesive size, the wood is covered with the silver foil sheets. This is a very unusual process, the foil is incredibly thin and will tear apart if it catches your fingers, so you have to be delicate. each foil sheet is laid down with a little bit of overlap.

Silver foil sheets laid in place

The foil is then burnished with a cheesecloth to have it form the curves of the wood. This is a messy process and the foil flakes will end up everywhere. They are so thin that you'll find them floating in the air. Once this is complete, a layer of sealant is used to protect the foil. 

Silver foil after burnishing

The antiquing kit included an antique glaze that is made for gold so it's a brownish hue. It didn't look right on the silver. Instead I chose to rub it down with powdered graphite before sealing it again. Then two layers of satin clearcoat were added for additional protection of the finish.

More to come

The Fine Print:

Please remember that building circuits and performing circuit modifications can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. Many electronics contain high voltages that can kill, and mods, if performed improperly, can be a fire hazard. Please keep this in mind. 

DIYTube Get*Set*Go Single Ended Amplifier

Shannon Parks, head-honcho of DIYTube, has made plenty of projects available since 2003 when the DIYTube ST35 clone was made available. Since then, a handful of projects have been released, from the 60 watt Eiclone amplifier to driver boards for Dynacos to stand-alone single-ended amplifiers like the Clementine and Get Set Go. The projects are all well documented, feature circuit boards for easy building and if a builder runs into trouble, DIYTube features a forum with a very friendly user-base that is happy to help with problems.

This post is dedicated to the building of the Get*Set*Go. Get "Set" Go is a cute play on words for SET (Single Ended Triode). The tube compliment features an on-board 6SL7 driver and 6AX5GT rectifier, which feed two 6B4G power tubes running in single-ended Class A with no feedback. Power output is approximately 3 watts, so it's important to pair this amplifier with some very efficient speakers.

Get Set Go Schematic from DIYTube

Get Set Go Power Schematic from DIYTube

A variety of transformers can be used, including James, Triode Electronics, Edcor, etc. James 6113HS outputs were the initial recommendation on the BoM (bill of materials), however it seems there are no local suppliers at them moment, and having them shipped overseas is an expensive proposition due to the weight. Transcendar TT-312-OT 5K were settled on for the outputs for this build, they're a very highly recommended value and made in the U.S.

A pair of  Transcendar 312-OT output transformers

The power transformer is the Triode Electronics PA-774, which is a well-made clone of the Dynaco ST-35 PA-774 transformer. The laminations of this transformer are a natural metal finish, and since the 312-OT outputs are wrapped with adhesive black cloth tape, I wanted the PA-774 to match a little better. The particular cloth tape that Gery at Transcendar uses runs $50+ a roll, which wouldn't really be worth the cost for a single application, so black engine enamel was settled on to darken the lams on the PA-774 for its high heat properties.

Black Engine Enamel used to darken transformer laminations

Also from Triode Electronics is a pair of reproduction C-354 chokes. These little guys will help reduce ripple in the power supply. The chokes arrived with a bit of excess transformer lacquer that had solidified roughly on the edges, which is perfectly fine but not the most attractive thing to look at. A little bit of sanding and a black oil-based Sharpie touch-up worked wonders.

Triode Electronics C-354 Chokes

I had the aluminum chassis made for this build from my friend Keith (po1019 on Ebay) with beautiful walnut side panels.

Custom chassis with walnut side panels

The build begins with the silk-screened bright red PCB made of FR4 fiberglass. Beginning with the smallest parts (resistors and diodes) and working up to the larger parts (capacitors), the board is carefully populated.  This begins with Kiwame carbon film resistors, along with Vishay and Mills wirewound power resistors.

Board with Kiwame, Mills and Vishay resistors in place

Some fun boutique parts that will be dropped in are a set of four Nichicon Fine Gold and two Elna Cerafine electrolytics. Generally the "audiophile" marketed electrolytics (think Black Gate, Elna Silmic / Cerafine, Nichicon Muse / Fine Gold) are much larger than their similarly rated counterparts, but in some rare cases, they'll fit on a circuit board without issue. Also to be included are a set of matched Jupiter Beeswax HT 0.22uF caps. Below you'll note the populated board with above items. Also, the power supply electrolytics (Panasonic 150uF 450V) are being bypassed with a pair of Solen 1.0uF 630V film caps. This is probably not necessary as the two chokes should minimize the power ripple, but they were sitting in the parts bin and it couldn't hurt ;)

Bottom of the populated Get*Set*Go Board

Top of the populated Get*Set*Go Board

Next came creating all the necessary holes in the chassis using a combination of the drill press, Greenlee die punches for the tube holes and a Dremel cutting disc for the IEC inlet. Below is the chassis ready for a fresh coat of paint at the powdercoater.

Chassis top plate with all necessary holes

Chassis bottom plate with ventilation holes

The chassis was then powdercoated a warm cream color.

Powdercoated GSG Chassis

The components can now be added. Cardas copper binding posts, Cardas RCAs, Teflon 8-pin tube sockets, and VT4C aluminum tube surrounds were installed. The chokes and transformers were installed using a combination of rubber washers, brass washers, locking washers and brass nuts. The rubber washers are used to help dampen vibration from the transformers to the chassis. A heavy duty toggle switch was added to the front of the chassis for the sake of convenience. The usual vintage-style pilot light was also added to the front panel.

Initial parts installation

Once the parts were in place, the PCB could be fitted on top of the standoffs. This is when you find out how accurate your drill-work is ;) Thankfully all the holes lined up and a few screws were placed to keep the board secured.  

The GSG PCB in place

The Get Set Go makes use of convenient barrier terminal blocks so that the board can easily be removed without an iron if the situation calls for it. Each wire is trimmed to size and a small binding post is attached at the wire termination, the binding post is then screwed to the board with a standard Philips head screwdriver. 

Most of the wiring up complete

I did take note of Shannon's suggestion that a few of the power resistors should be mounted on the other side of the board to maximize heat dissipation, so R15B, R16B, R19 and R20 were relocated. Two pieces of shielded Cardas 2x21.5 were trimmed to size and used to run the low level signal to the board. Finally the Bayonet light featuring a 6.3V LED was wired to the board, completing the project. The bottom was screwed on and some nice tubes were dropped in place.

The Get Set Go from the front

I was able to source a nice pair of matched Raytheon 6B4G tubes, a coin-base GE 6SL7 driver and a Sylvania 6AX5GT.

The Get Set Go from the rear

I designed the nice little engraved plate in Illustrator. Anyone who wants to use it is welcome (for non-commercial applications).

The amplifier started up right away with no issues thanks to Shannon's great online documentation. The response was crisp and clear, and the bottom-end was more plentiful than I was expecting from such a low wattage output. I'd imagine with the 5K output transformers the output is likely around 2.5 watts. It still needs a little help from a subwoofer in my humble opinion, but the sound is quite nice.

Want more? Read about another DIYTube SET build: the Clementine.

Need some high quality audio cables to take your music to the next level? Contact Zynsonix Audio for a great sounding solution.

The Fine Print:

Please remember that building circuits and performing circuit modifications can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. Many electronics contain high voltages that can kill, and mods, if performed improperly, can be a fire hazard. Please keep this in mind. 

A Pair of Custom Dynaco Mk III Monoblock Amplifiers

The Dynaco Mk III monoblock was introduced by Dynaco was back in 1957, just after the Mk II and the PAM-1 pre-amp and two years before the famous ST-70. The amp was designed by David Halfer and Ed Laurent, and the kit sold for a mere $79.95 in 1950s dollars. Each monoblock makes use of a pair of KT-88 power tubes, a 6AN8 driver tube and a GZ-34 rectifier tube. Later in the Mk IIIs life, the power tubes were switched to 6550s. The output power is rated at a very health 60 watts per channel, which should easily drive all but the most demanding speakers.

After building slightly modernized variants of the Dynaco ST35 and ST70, I felt that the Mk III was the next logical step. Of course there are some deviations from the original design that I will be pursuing. The first is based out of a concern that was addressed on the SDS Audio Labs page, "The capacitors in the [mkIII] power supply are not rated at a high enough voltage for the power transformer. This results in the quad cap being run over it's rated voltage every time the amp is turned on. The first section of the original quad cap is rated at 525 volts and the B+ goes as high as 585 volts during start up. This is due to the fact that the rectifier heats up and begins conducting before the power tubes heat up and start drawing power from the high voltage supply." Thankfully, SDS Labs offers a solution to this: a capacitor board that can handle anywhere from 630-800 volts depending on the configuration. The SDS Labs board is currently available from the folks over at Triode Electronics, and even populated, it doesn't cost much more than a typical can capacitor.

SDS Cap-board left, Triode driver board right

The second deviation would be a more modern driver board for the Mk III. There are currently several on the market, one called the Poseiden from DIYTube, one from Tubes4HiFi that incorporates additional electrolytics on the board its-self, one from Curcio Audio and one from Triode Electronics. All four boards make use of two driver tubes as opposed to the stock version's single tube. Since the SDS cap-board was being utilized, I didn't feel that the Tubes4HiFi board's additional capacitors would be necessary, and the Curcio board makes use of 6922s, which have been used for audio for many decades making it difficult (read: expensive) to get vintage tubes. The Triode Electronics version uses a pair of 12AU7 (or others depending on the configuration) and the Poseiden uses a 12AU7 and 12AX7 (or others as well). Both seemed to be perfectly up to the task, so the Triode version was chosen as I was already putting an order in with them for the cap-boards.

Schematic for the MKIII w/ Triode Electronics driver board

Finally, in order to make the build a bit more unique, a gorgeous pair of 10x13 blank chassis were ordered from eBay seller po1019. These arrived with walnut wood sides ready for finishing. Holes will need to be drilled to accommodate the tubes, transformers and other various and sundry switches and connectors, but this will offer a bit more room to arrange things within the chassis.

Some of po1019s fine chassis work

The first step was to begin arranging the chassis and drawing out where the boards, tubes and transformers would be sitting. This would prepare the chassis for accurate holes to be drilled on the drill press. A permanent marker was used in this case as the chassis would be powder-coated, however light pencil markings would be used if the chassis would be left as bare aluminum.

Next would be the population of the capacitor boards. The way the capacitor board is set up, it runs the caps in series, which halves the capacitance but doubles the maximum voltage rating. Two 100μF 400V caps in series is 50μF 800V, as long as the proper dividing resistors are used between them to split up the load effectively. Therefore the whole board offers four banks of 50 micro-farads. I used some 30mm tall by 25mm wide Panasonic (Matsushita) snap-in caps to fill up the banks and some Koa Speers as the dividing resistors. There is also room for bypass capacitors on the board, Solen 0.1μF 630V caps were used for that purpose.

Populated SDS capacitor board

The Triode Electronics driver boards were then populated with a variety of Kiwame two watt carbon film resistors, silver mica capacitors and a pair of gold-plated ceramic tube sockets. Kiwame carbon film resistors are chosen for their warm and natural sound compared to modern metal film. Also, the values don't "drift" over the years like sweet-sounding carbon composition resistors, which is another benefit.

Populated Triode Electronics boards 

The capacitors for the board are AmpOhm paper in wax, which will be mounted separately and leads run to the board given the size. Since the design is vintage, I figured some vintage style paper-in-wax caps would be a nice feature. Other nice parts for the build include Sprague Atom electrolytics and Cardas bare-copper binding posts. 

AmpOhm & Sprague Caps, Cardas Posts

One of the most time consuming parts of any build is preparing the chassis. This involves laying out the parts where you think they would look and perform the best, measuring to verify your lines are straight, marking the chassis and drilling / punching a ton of holes. Since the two 9 pin tubes sit to the right of the Triode board and I wanted the tubes to be centered on the chassis, the board is offset to account for this. The three eight pin tubes sit behind the board, and the big hulking power and output transformers will sit in the back. 

Drilled and punched aluminum panel

The next bit of work is staining the mahogany wood panels that came with the chassis. These amps will feature a red and cream color scheme rather than the typical copper and antique copper colors just for the sake of keeping things fresh and interesting. So the wood panels are being stained a nice deep red with a water-based dye. 

Chassis wood panels before staining

The wood panels were initially sanded with 220 grit sandpaper and would be stained red like the Frugel Horn Speakers with water-based stain. Bright Red Trans Tint was added to a clear tint base to get a nice bright red. Water-based stain has it's own set of products for pre-stain prep and finish, which you can see in the below photo.

The water-based stain lineup

The initial prep includes a pre-stain layer, which is followed by a light sanding. This prevents the grain for raising inopportunely during the staining process. This is followed by the wood stain. The TransTint is to be mixed at a half bottle per 32 ounces; in this case the whole bottle was used for a deeper, more saturated tone. Three coats of this stain were applied to get the wood evenly dark. Next, three layers of water-based satin Polycrylic are brushed on to seal up the finish. Finally, the four pieces were rubbed with a wax-based product to give them a bit of a luster.

Wood panels stained red

Both chassis and the transformer bells came back from the powdercoater, the chassis being a nice cream color and the bells a vibrant cherry red.

Custom chassis with a cream powdercoat

Transformer bells in vibrant cherry red

The bells can be installed back on the big beefy power and output transformers now that they're painted. Rather than use the existing hardware, brass screws, washers and acorn nuts were used. Since brass hardware is harder to come by than its zinc-plated counterpart, one has to make-do with what's available, which usually includes cutting longer size screws to fit. Using a small tabletop vice and a rotary tool with cutting disc, the screws are quickly trimmed to the perfect length. The process is loud and metal dust goes everywhere, so both hearing and eye protection were used. 

Brass screw being trimmed down

Once a full set of hardware has been adjusted to fit, the bells can go back on the transformers. 

The bells mounted to the power and output transformers

With the chassis fully prepped, the switches, jacks and other connectors could be fastened in place. Starting with the rear panel, a 3 prong power IEC inlet, heavy duty SPST power switch, fuse holder, Cardas copper binding posts and a Cardas RCA jack were installed.

The mkIII rear panel

Next came a set of PTFE / Teflon tube sockets and aluminum base plates. The aluminum tube base plates came from a company called VT4C in Hong Kong, I don't know of anyone else in the world who makes them. They are really only for decoration purposes, and were powdercoated red to match the transformer bells. Holes were punched with a Greenlee die-cut tool for the tube sockets and two small screw holes were drilled adjacent each punched hole to mount the plates. The heads of the screws for each surround were painted red using a Sharpie oil-based paint marker. 

PTFE tube sockets and aluminum tube surrounds

The bottom of the base plates are compatible with aluminum rings that VT4C sells. These work with Teflon tube sockets and allow one to tighten the socket in place without using a traditional socket mounting bracket.

VT4C aluminum rings holding the PTFE sockets in place

To facilitate the soldering to the pins of the tube sockets, PCBs are fastened to the pins with solder which provides an empty solder hole for each pin. Also installed were the C354 choke which is directly under a transformer, a bias pot made by PEC, a heavy duty DPDT switch to allow for triode and pentode mode switching and a set of board-mounted solder tabs where the oversized paper-in-wax AmpOhm caps will reside. The gold-plated board-mounted solder tabs are from VT4C as well, they are the first gold-plated solder tabs I've seen that were reasonably priced. 

Socket PCBs, choke, DPDT switch and solder tabs installed

The board was installed next using a set of aluminum standoffs, screws and locking washers. As noticeable in the picture below, the board is offset so the 9 pin tubes end up in the middle of the chassis. The AmpOhm caps were mounted in such as way as the smaller 0.22uF caps were on one side and the larger 1uF caps were on the other. It worked out to be a perfect fit, which was carefully verified before the caps were ordered ahead of time. The caps were arranged so the lead would be soldered to the solder tabs, then a piece of Kimber TCSS wire was run to the proper place on the board. The bottom of the board was labelled in red with the cap locations for ease of installation. Each capacitor was aligned so that the outer foil and inner foil were in the proper place.

AmpOhm capacitors installed

The big hulking transformers were then fastened to the chassis. A bit of the powdercoat was sanded off around the screws on the transformer bells and the chassis so that the bells would be properly grounded. Rubber washers were also added between the transformers and the chassis to ward off a little bit of the vibration. Nearly every inch of the chassis is being used, so the SDS cap board and C-354 choke are mounted underneath the transformers. A very handy turret tag board was fastened to the middle of the amplifier, this would be used mainly for the bias circuit.

Transformers mounted to the chassis

The amp can finally be wired up now that everything is in place. The transformers from Triode Electronics feature nice silver plated copper in Teflon wire, which really beats the typical PVC covered wire that comes with most transformers. Not only is there less loss from the dielectric, but you don't have to worry about it melting when soldering things that require a lot of heat like the binding posts. Nearly all other wiring was done with Kimber TCSS wire (19 gauge copper in Teflon). This was doubled up for the power inlet (aggregate 16 gauge). Shielded Cardas 2x24 was used for the signal input to help prevent EMI interference. As pictured below, nice quality Sprague and Solen caps were used for the bias circuit. 

MKIII almost fully wired

Compared to the original layout in the 9x9 chassis (pictured below), the custom 10x12 chassis allows for more air around the parts and a more logical topology in my humble opinion. The transformers were able to be moved further away from one another, the bias test point was able to be conveniently moved to the top of the unit, and the tubes were able to be arranged so that the amp has a definitive front and back, which was harder to identify in the original version. Also the gargantuan AmpOhm caps would never have fit in the original chassis. 

Example photo of an original MKIII

The pilot light was then installed, running off of the 6V tube heaters. The SDS cap board was also grounded in a couple of different places.

Wiring on the MKIII complete

Now the tubes could be installed and the chassis decorated with brass plates. A relatively low-cost tube compliment will be used with these monoblocks, the Tung Sol 6550 power tubes, Sovtek 5AR4 rectifier and JAN 5814 (12AU7 equivalent) driver tubes.

MKIII unit front

MKIII unit rear

All that's left to do is finish up the bottom plate prep. A number of holes were drilled for the sake of ventilation, which is especially important for tube amps as they can get pretty warm. A number of holes were drilled to go directly underneath the power and rectifier tubes, as well as under the chassis where the transformers sit. 

Looking to take your audio rig to the next level? Contact Zynsonix Audio for audiophile grade solutions at an affordable price.

The Fine Print:

Please remember that building circuits and performing circuit modifications can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. Many electronics contain high voltages that can kill, and mods, if performed improperly, can be a fire hazard. Please keep this in mind.