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Showing posts with label triode. Show all posts
Showing posts with label triode. Show all posts

March 30, 2012

DIYTube Get*Set*Go Single Ended Amplifier

Shannon Parks, head-honcho of DIYTube, has made plenty of projects available since 2003 when the DIYTube ST35 clone was made available. Since then, a handful of projects have been released, from the 60 watt Eiclone amplifier to driver boards for Dynacos to stand-alone single-ended amplifiers like the Clementine and Get Set Go. The projects are all well documented, feature circuit boards for easy building and if a builder runs into trouble, DIYTube features a forum with a very friendly user-base that is happy to help with problems.

This post is dedicated to the building of the Get*Set*Go. Get "Set" Go is a cute play on words for SET (Single Ended Triode). The tube compliment features an on-board 6SL7 driver and 6AX5GT rectifier, which feed two 6B4G power tubes running in single-ended Class A with no feedback. Power output is approximately 3 watts, so it's important to pair this amplifier with some very efficient speakers.

Get Set Go Schematic from DIYTube

Get Set Go Power Schematic from DIYTube

A variety of transformers can be used, including James, Triode Electronics, Edcor, etc. James 6113HS outputs were the initial recommendation on the BoM (bill of materials), however it seems there are no local suppliers at them moment, and having them shipped overseas is an expensive proposition due to the weight. Transcendar TT-312-OT 5K were settled on for the outputs for this build, they're a very highly recommended value and made in the U.S.

A pair of  Transcendar 312-OT output transformers

The power transformer is the Triode Electronics PA-774, which is a well-made clone of the Dynaco ST-35 PA-774 transformer. The laminations of this transformer are a natural metal finish, and since the 312-OT outputs are wrapped with adhesive black cloth tape, I wanted the PA-774 to match a little better. The particular cloth tape that Gery at Transcendar uses runs $50+ a roll, which wouldn't really be worth the cost for a single application, so black engine enamel was settled on to darken the lams on the PA-774 for its high heat properties.

Black Engine Enamel used to darken transformer laminations

Also from Triode Electronics is a pair of reproduction C-354 chokes. These little guys will help reduce ripple in the power supply. The chokes arrived with a bit of excess transformer lacquer that had solidified roughly on the edges, which is perfectly fine but not the most attractive thing to look at. A little bit of sanding and a black oil-based Sharpie touch-up worked wonders.

Triode Electronics C-354 Chokes

I had the aluminum chassis made for this build from my friend Keith (po1019 on Ebay) with beautiful walnut side panels.

Custom chassis with walnut side panels

The build begins with the silk-screened bright red PCB made of FR4 fiberglass. Beginning with the smallest parts (resistors and diodes) and working up to the larger parts (capacitors), the board is carefully populated.  This begins with Kiwame carbon film resistors, along with Vishay and Mills wirewound power resistors.

Board with Kiwame, Mills and Vishay resistors in place

Some fun boutique parts that will be dropped in are a set of four Nichicon Fine Gold and two Elna Cerafine electrolytics. Generally the "audiophile" marketed electrolytics (think Black Gate, Elna Silmic / Cerafine, Nichicon Muse / Fine Gold) are much larger than their similarly rated counterparts, but in some rare cases, they'll fit on a circuit board without issue. Also to be included are a set of matched Jupiter Beeswax HT 0.22uF caps. Below you'll note the populated board with above items. Also, the power supply electrolytics (Panasonic 150uF 450V) are being bypassed with a pair of Solen 1.0uF 630V film caps. This is probably not necessary as the two chokes should minimize the power ripple, but they were sitting in the parts bin and it couldn't hurt ;)

Bottom of the populated Get*Set*Go Board

Top of the populated Get*Set*Go Board

Next came creating all the necessary holes in the chassis using a combination of the drill press, Greenlee die punches for the tube holes and a Dremel cutting disc for the IEC inlet. Below is the chassis ready for a fresh coat of paint at the powdercoater.

Chassis top plate with all necessary holes
Chassis bottom plate with ventilation holes

The chassis was then powdercoated a warm cream color.

Powdercoated GSG Chassis

The components can now be added. Cardas copper binding posts, Cardas RCAs, Teflon 8-pin tube sockets, and VT4C aluminum tube surrounds were installed. The chokes and transformers were installed using a combination of rubber washers, brass washers, locking washers and brass nuts. The rubber washers are used to help dampen vibration from the transformers to the chassis. A heavy duty toggle switch was added to the front of the chassis for the sake of convenience. The usual vintage-style pilot light was also added to the front panel.

Initial parts installation

Once the parts were in place, the PCB could be fitted on top of the standoffs. This is when you find out how accurate your drill-work is ;) Thankfully all the holes lined up and a few screws were placed to keep the board secured.  

The GSG PCB in place

The Get Set Go makes use of convenient barrier terminal blocks so that the board can easily be removed without an iron if the situation calls for it. Each wire is trimmed to size and a small binding post is attached at the wire termination, the binding post is then screwed to the board with a standard Philips head screwdriver. 

Most of the wiring up complete

I did take note of Shannon's suggestion that a few of the power resistors should be mounted on the other side of the board to maximize heat dissipation, so R15B, R16B, R19 and R20 were relocated. Two pieces of shielded Cardas 2x21.5 were trimmed to size and used to run the low level signal to the board. Finally the Bayonet light featuring a 6.3V LED was wired to the board, completing the project. The bottom was screwed on and some nice tubes were dropped in place.

The Get Set Go from the front

I was able to source a nice pair of matched Raytheon 6B4G tubes, a coin-base GE 6SL7 driver and a Sylvania 6AX5GT.


The Get Set Go from the rear

I designed the nice little engraved plate in Illustrator. Anyone who wants to use it is welcome (for non-commercial applications).


The amplifier started up right away with no issues thanks to Shannon's great online documentation. The response was crisp and clear, and the bottom-end was more plentiful than I was expecting from such a low wattage output. I'd imagine with the 5K output transformers the output is likely around 2.5 watts. It still needs a little help from a subwoofer in my humble opinion, but the sound is quite nice.

Want more? Read about another DIYTube SET build: the Clementine.

Need some high quality audio cables to take your music to the next level? Contact Zynsonix Audio for a great sounding solution.

The Fine Print:
Please remember that building circuits and performing circuit modifications can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. Many electronics contain high voltages that can kill, and mods, if performed improperly, can be a fire hazard. Please keep this in mind. 





May 30, 2011

A new upgrade for the Bottlehead Seduction Phono Pre-amp

In the interest of a little tweak for the Bottlehead Seduction Phono Pre-amp, a pair of Hammond 155J chokes were added to the power supply in place of the two 1K resistors. On paper, they are 1026 ohms +/- 15%. In practice, they measured about 900 ohms each, which should be close enough for this purpose. Chokes allows better filtering in the power supply (less hum in the output of the amp and less voltage drop) which should translate to better sound. There's a nice quick lesson on the purpose of chokes here. Since the stock Bottlehead design lifts the transformer with a pair of standoffs for noise reduction, I decided to use a pair of standoffs for the chokes to physically move them away from the tubes. As typical with Bottlehead kits, once you start dropping in some fancy parts, the real estate tends to go pretty quickly. The most accommodating place to mount them in my case was right next to the C4S constant current upgrade board.


Pair of Hammond 155J Chokes next to the C4S
 The upgrade required about a half hour of time to mount the chokes and solder them in place, along with about $30 plus shipping for the chokes themselves. I'm listening away to the new Radiohead The King of Limbs vinyl as I write this, the sound is warm and smooth, just as a record should sound.


Please read the full story here: http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2011/02/bottlehead-seduction-phono-pre-amp.html 



The Fine Print:
Please remember that building circuits and performing circuit modifications can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. Many electronics contain high voltages that can kill, and mods, if performed improperly, can be a fire hazard. Please keep this in mind. 


April 18, 2011

The Norman Koren Dynaco PAS Preamp

Some of you may have seen Geek's rebuild of a Dynaco PAS using some specially designed boards based on  Norman Koren's SPICE design back in May of 2010. Below you can see his very nicely appointed PAS preamp.

Geek's PAS rebuild using the Norman Koren boards

Geek, who runs ClassicValve, is now offering the Norman Koren boards for sale, calling them the Norman Koren PAS Purist Mod as it eliminates the tone controls from the original PAS 2 / 3 / 3X design. From what I read, these boards are a much more modern sounding design, with more detail and clarity than the stock boards. The Dynaco PAS has a warm and endearing sound, but it really isn't the last word in detail. Both the line and phono boards make use of three tubes each rather than the stock boards that only use two, so an additional tranformer is necessary for the 12X4 rectifier tube and pilot light to prevent overloading the PA211 transformer. You can also mix and match other PAS boards with any combination of the Norman Koren boards by changing a few parts and running the leads in a different configuration. Below are the board schematics from ClassicValve.

Norman Koren PAS Line Board Schematic

Norman Koren PAS Phono Board Schematic

If you've kept up with my earlier blogs, you've seen that I've already done a complete rebuild on a Dynaco PAS, but after all that I've heard about the Norman Koren design, I just couldn't resist building another. Geek offers the two purist boards, along with his own PAS regulated power supply for the special package price of $75 (as of this writing). He also has the tube sockets and MOSFET & heatsink for the power supply board. Below, you will see my mostly populated set of boards with the obligatory Kiwame and Takman carbon film resistors and Obbligato Gold caps. It took a little bit of time to find the correctly-sized polypropylene film caps on Mouser, if using something like a square polyester film cap, it would likely be difficult to squeeze in place. The silver mica caps are all 1% for the sake of accuracy in the phono board. There's a fancy pants pair of Mundorf caps that will be occupying the left and right capacitor slots on the line stage, but will have to be installed after the boards are mounted due to spacing.

Norman Koren Populated Line Board
Norman Koren Populated Phono Board
Regulated PAS Power Supply in Progress

Rather than going the route of using a PAS donor chassis like I did in a previous build, this special PAS will be built using a brand new PAS chassis from Dynakit Parts. Up until now, no such thing was available on the market, but Kevin @ Dynakitparts has been working for most of this year on this offering. The chassis is the same identical size to the original, but is made of thicker Zinc plated steel. Two different color covers are available in polyeurethane textured brown or black, and three different faceplates are available, on that resembles the original, a full-function version, and a black "purist" faceplate that eliminates any unnecessary controls. 

The new chassis feels much more solid and durable than the original PAS chassis, and there are a number of new mounting options to mount the transformer to the back or add an additional filament transformer in place of the multicap. The fourth power outlet was removed, which is ideal as there was really no room for it in my other build. The outlets are included, which appear to be from Radio Daze, so they are ever-so-slightly larger than the ones included in the original PAS. The cover includes some much needed vent holes on the left and right sides, as the PAS can get rather hot on the inside. The textured black paint on the cover looks excellent. The original plan was to sand it down and powdercoat it, but the finish excellent and it will be kept as-is. Overall this is a very thoughtful offering, it's obvious that a lot of time and energy went into the planning. Color me very impressed (in the interest of full disclosure, I did receive a small discount on the chassis from DynaKitParts, since this is a semi-review). The cost isn't much more than a vintage PAS on that auction site, and often times vintage PASs have some dents and dings to worry about. 

One thing I'd like to see Kevin offer in the future is a gold faceplate like the original. A gold faceplate and brown cover would look vintage-chic for sure. 

This build will be using the PAS Purist Faceplate in black. The Purist faceplate only has slots for tone controls, volume, balance and power. Most modern boards for the PAS do not offer the tone controls anyway, so I'd imagine the majority of modern builds will make use of this faceplate. 

The Faceplate is very attractive, featuring engraved fonts that are color-filled light blue and white. One minor quibble, the same issue I take with Front Panel Express panels, is that the sides are not anodized black. I'd imagine that would only bother anal people though ;) A quick trace around the border with a Sharpie is really all that's needed to make it black as well. 

PAS chassis with cover off

PAS Purist black faceplate
In the above photos you will notice a Dynakitparts reproduction PA-211 transformer. This unit has the same dimensions as the original, but appears to have a little bit more headroom in the specs: 120 vac, 50/60 hz primary. 330-0-330 vac secondary @ 15 mA DC rectified current plus 10.9 vac secondary @ 1.25 A supply for tube filaments and pilot light.

The power supply board has now been completed. Due to a shortage on a few of the parts, some substitutes were used which will require a half ohm power resistor in line with the heater section.

Completed PAS power board from Classic Valve

In the interest of having the interior and back match the exterior, the chassis will be taken to the powdercoater for a nice textured black finish. Before that happens, the RCA back panel will be fashioned out of FRP material and I would need the chassis to verify the measurements and hole placement. There are already a number of replacements for this board pre-made by Tubes4HiFi and Dynakitparts, but I wanted to challenge myself and save a few bucks in the process.

The FRP board was purchased at ClassicValve for about $10 shipped. A few lines and circles were drawn in with a black marker which would be a guide for the drill press. These will be rubbed away with isl-propyl alcohol after the fact.

Marked FRP board for RCA panel

Since the six inputs on the original PAS is a little overkill in my humble opinion, I will only be including four on this example, the phono, which is off to the left, and three other inputs. The output RCAs will be fastened directly on the chassis using slightly larger Cardas RCAs. The RCAs included below are very reasonably priced gold-plated RCA jacks with Teflon insulation made by Philmore, the MTG12. The two dremelled-away areas on the left of the board will be to allow clearance for the Cardas RCAs.

RCA panel front

The grounds on the three inputs (not including the phono) are all connected using a single piece of UP-OCC copper wire. The ground solder tab is twisted slightly on each so the wire can be fed through without issue.

RCA panel back

It's common knowledge that the original PAS chassis could benefit from some additional airflow. I was very pleased to see that Kevin opted to add side ventilation to the cover, which can be seen below:
Ventilated PAS Chassis Cover

Similar to the previous PAS rebuild, I opted to add even more ventilation to the chassis by punching 6 holes in the rear of the chassis using a Greenlee die punch. These would be right behind the power supply and centimeters away from the transformer. A perforated metal sheet was added in combination with the holes which would prevent fingers from touching the power supply unit. The RCA panel was also secured to the back of the unit using copper pop rivets. Cardas rhodium-plated RCAs were installed next to the RCA panel to act as the output RCAs. The chassis conveniently includes some hole covers, plastic grommets and snap-in power outlets which should be visible in the photos below. 

PAS Chassis Side

Rather than run a lamp cord directly into the unit, a removable C7 power cord would be used. A little bit of filing of one of the power outlet holes was all that was necessary to fit a C8 inlet with a pair of pop rivets.

PAS Chassis Back

Finally those beautiful circuit boards could be installed. Since the 0.47uF capacitors were oversized, they had to be installed after the board was fitted. The Dynakit Parts transformer was then dropped in place with a set of rubber washers underneath to ward off excess vibration. A fuse holder was also installed to the front panel next to where the power switch will be located. 

Chassis interior with PCBs in place

The front controls could now be mounted. Selected for the task was an Elma 6 position switch, DACT CT2 stepped attenuator, Audio Note balance control and a DPST silver cadmium power switch from Dynakit Parts. 

DACT CT2 stepped attenuator and Elma 6 position switch

Also installed was an LED power indicator board which takes the place of the incandescent pilot light from the original PAS. These boards can be purchased from a number of places including ClassicValve and DynakitParts and put a lot less strain on the transformer than a pilot light would. 

Controls and LED board installed

The pre-amp could now be wired up. Chosen for the task was Neotech 24 gauge UP-OCC copper in Teflon for signal wiring and Kimber 19 gauge TCSS for power / heater wiring. Cardas 2x24 shielded wire was also used for the phono input wire and pre-amp output, as both traveled a little closer to the power supply.

Norman Koren PAS fully wired up

I didn't bother wiring up the convenience outlets as they'll likely never be used, which keeps the interior wiring a little cleaner on the bottom. As can be seen below, only the power wire to the fuse & transformer, 12V wires to the LED, ground connections and output wiring were run in the lower part of the chassis.

Bottom of chassis

In some instances, wires were soldered directly to the board rather than using the screw down terminals. I tend to prefer a solder joint over a screw terminal when possible, just seems more secure ;)

Interior side view

So, the Norman Koren PAS is fully up and running. The sound is a real delight, definitely reference-level in my humble opinion. Everything is very crisp, clear and engaging, no detectable noise either, and this is with low-cost Sovtek long plate 12AX7s. It will be interesting to try some NOS tubes at some point. I want to thank Gregg over at Classic Valve and J.P. as they were able to answer my questions during the build process.

One minor quibble I have with the build is the gain is quite high, and you reach full volume just a few clicks in on the attenuator. Gregg mentioned there is a way to remedy this with a small modification to add more NFB to the line stage, so I will be performing this next.

Replacing the 120K resistors on R6C (the cathode follower load) with a series of a smaller value resistor and a capacitor will assist in reducing the gain. The reactance of the cap in series should be equal to the series resistor at 10Hz, then multiplying that resulting value by 10+ is necessary to avoid LF instabilities. Choosing a 62K resistor, then calculating the value of the capacitor and multiplying the result by 10 led to a value of 2.7uF, since this value is not critical and can be increased without issue, 3.3uF caps were used as Obbligato does not offer 2.7uF. Since there is little real estate left in the PAS chassis at this point, this little mini circuit would be mounted where the tone controls normally reside. In order to mount the mini circuit, a small turret board was fabricated to contain the two caps and two resistors. Fly leads would run to and from this to the board where the existing 120K resistors resided.

DIY turret board with Obbligato caps and Kiwame resistors

Mounting this small board proved to be a little tricky. After a couple of tries, the final mounting place for the board was directly behind the LED power indicator and power switch using a pair of standoffs. The existing 120K resistors were removed and Neotech UP-OCC wire was run to the board in their place.

Final interior Norman Koren PAS
Indeed the mod reduced the gain substantially. I'd have to say this is one of the best sounding pre-amps I've heard, and an extremely good value for the cost of parts. Highly recommended!


The Fine Print:
Please remember that building circuits and performing circuit modifications can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. Many electronics contain high voltages that can kill, and mods, if performed improperly, can be a fire hazard. Please keep this in mind. 


February 16, 2011

The Bottlehead Seduction Phono Pre Amp

After a rather enjoyable Bottlehead Crack build, I decided to press forward with another of Bottlehead's relatively inexpensive kits, the Bottlehead Seduction. The Seduction is a phono pre amp. For those of you who aren't familiar with record players, a phono preamp is necessary to bring the output of a moving magnet or moving coil cartridge up to a standard line level input using RIAA based equalization. The accuracy of this equalization is important, so when building a phono pre-amp, the parts values should be as close as possible (in other words, aim for the +/- 1% resistors and capacitors when possible).

The Seduction has been offered by Bottlehead for quite some time, 10 years I believe and was designed by Paul Joppa. This phono pre is two stages, and makes use of a pair of 6922 / 6DJ8 tubes, which are very commonly used for audio. This makes purchasing good vintage ones a rather expensive task, but there are plenty of good quality new-production and JAN (Joint-Army-Navy) tubes available for reasonable prices. 

As typical with Bottlehead builds, there is a Constant Current Source Upgrade. This adds $75 to the $369 price (as of Feb 2011), but, as always, is worth the small investment. From the Bottlehead site: Now the benefits of increased dynamics, more quiet background, better bass control and added gain found can be had for the Seduction phono preamp. Four Camille Cascode Constant Current Sources replace the stock plate load resistors, dramatically increasing the load impedance for greater Power Supply Ripple Rejection (PSRR) and the extraction of the full gain available from the tubes (up from about 36dB in the stock form to about 40dB). 

I made a number of part changes to the build in the interest of having the best possible performance:
  • C4S Upgrade Board
  • Gold Obbligato Caps (0.47uf and 0.1uf)
  • Russian Teflon bypass caps
  • Vintage Pilot Light
  • Cardas Rhodium input and output RCAs
  • Slightly nicer than stock Pany and Nichicon caps in the power supply
  • Cardas, Kimber and Neotech Teflon wiring.
  • Teflon Noval Sockets and PCBs
  • Takman Carbon Film Resistors
  • Ear Feet
I also used one of the Orange Drop caps in the kit to bypass one of the power supply caps, you can see it wedged on the left in the photo below. The top plate was given a copper colored powder coat, and the wood was treated with a variety of MinWax products to give it that nice reddish brown color. Please click to enlarge any of the photos below.

Note the C4S board on the upper left above the ground plane

The transformer sits on nylon standoffs for noise reduction

Vintage pilot light sits behinds the tubes

Russian Teflon Bypass Caps added
The Finished Product





The Obbligatos are very nice caps for very little money but probably aren't the last word in detail. I opted to add the teflon bypass caps try and extract a little bit more. The Russian teflon bypass caps are old war caps, you can snag them on ebay for a song, just keep an eye on shipping as it tends to cost more than the caps. You'll also find that they are quite large compared to other similarly rated caps, so keep this in mind when you try to fit them in a build. I ended up with miniature 2200pF (pico-farad) caps to compliment the 1uF (micro-farad), equivalvent to 1,000,000pF Obbligatos. The rule of thumb is that a bypass should be 1% or less of the cap it is bypassing, so this little guy is 0.22%.

I'm currently using a very special custom 10-3 right angle power cord with this kit (my own recipe). Take a look at the details here.

UPDATE (5/30/2011): A pair of Hammond 155J chokes were added to the power supply in place of the two 1K resistors. On paper, they are 1026 ohms +/- 15%. In practice, they measured about 900 ohms each, which should be close enough for this purpose. Chokes allows better filtering in the power supply (less hum in the output of the amp and less voltage drop) which should translate to better sound. There's a nice quick lesson on the purpose of chokes here. Since the stock Bottlehead design lifts the transformer with a pair of standoffs for noise reduction, I decided to use a pair of standoffs for the chokes to physically move them away from the tubes. As typical with Bottlehead kits, once you start dropping in some fancy parts, the real estate tends to go pretty quickly. The most accommodating place to mount them in my case was right next to the C4S constant current upgrade board.

Pair of Hammond 155J Chokes next to the C4S
The upgrade required about a half hour of time to mount the chokes and solder them in place, along with about $30 plus shipping for the chokes themselves. I also opted to add a little bit of Dynamat Xtreme to the tops of the chokes and the main transformer to help dampen a little bit of vibration. I'm listening away to the new Radiohead The King of Limbs vinyl as I write this, the sound is warm and smooth, just as a record should sound. 


The Fine Print:
Please remember that building circuits and performing circuit modifications can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a modification posted below and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. Many electronics contain high voltages that can kill, and mods, if performed improperly, can be a fire hazard. Please keep this in mind.